Greetings from Sweden:)

[Turbon]

Hi, I bought an old Trophy 2460 from 1984 (I believe) that stands on a trailer. My goal is to use is as an fishing/leisure boat. It’s been on the trailer for several years so the tyres has to be replaced. All tips are most welcome about how to preparera a trailer for a long haule. A first problem I have is about tyresize and trailer mfg and model. I’ll give you a picture as a starter. More about these issues in the technical section. Regards / Turbon

[Metrodriver]

Tire size I don't know, usually that depends on the rim size, which depends on load capacity of the trailer.
Some things you will need to look at are wheel bearings, and brake system. My trailer and boat sat for several years and the bearings were bad since water had entered the grease, brake pistons were rusted solid, brake lines were rusted away as was the master cylinder in the coupler. Also the lights were all corroded. New bearings, new grease seals (make sure they are correct for your, axle and hub), new o-rings, new brake pistons, new brake lines, new coupler, new LED lights. My trailer is an Eazyloader from 1989.
If you have a vin number, you can look up the manufacturer of the trailer. Post some pictures of what you've got.

[Turbon]

Ok, maybe not the correct section but here are some pictures . It would be nice if someone could identify the trailer so I knew what to google for .
SLIP ON MANUFACTURING doesn't give anything...

Regards / Turbon

[MidnightSun]

Slip on is the manufacturer however being so old they are most likely out of business. Trailer parts are pretty much universal though. What are you looking for?

[Metrodriver]

Make sure your transom is not rotted. Bayliner did a good job sealing the drain plug from the outside, but not from the inside, so bilge water soaks into the plywood, rotting it. That is how my 3 year restauration project started.

What is that cool old car in the corner?

[Turbon]

I can’t tell if the transom is rotten or not, I can’t see any bulges. The car in the corner is a Chevy . I took a bunch of photos - would you want to have them Metrodriver?

[Pcpete]

There should some raised letters and numbers near the rim that will note the size and load rating. It may be on the backside/inside depending on how the tire was mounted on the rim.

[MacPhid]

Turbon, welcome to the BOC! Nice looking boats, lots of new parts to go with it I presume. I'm sure if you have any assembly questions Rick will chime in.

The name plate indicates a B78 13ST tire. Old high load trailer tire. Closest replacement would probably be a 175-80 13 with a high load rating.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-87232.html

As far as the trailer manufacturer, looks like they're long gone.

https://www.corporationwiki.com/Florida/Pompano-Beach/boat-slip-on-trailer-manufacturing-inc-4986872.aspx

James

[2850Bounty]

Hi, I bought an old Trophy 2460 from 1984 (I believe) that stands on a trailer. My goal is to use is as an fishing/leisure boat. It’s been on the trailer for several years so the tyres has to be replaced. All tips are most welcome about how to preparera a trailer for a long haule. A first problem I have is about tyresize and trailer mfg and model. I’ll give you a picture as a starter. More about these issues in the technical section. Regards / Turbon

Ok, maybe not the correct section but here are some pictures . It would be nice if someone could identify the trailer so I knew what to google for .
SLIP ON MANUFACTURING doesn't give anything...

As Hans said, the trailer components will be pretty much the same between manufactures.
Wheel bearings and seals will be industry standard.
(see my note re; Bearing Buddies)

As Metro said..... check the integrity of the structural transom core.
Bayliner did a lousy job with the original transom construction.

Your first image shows the Volvo Penta 280 transom shield.

My suggestions:

.......Pull the collar steering fork and replace the two bushings, and the V-ring seal. Sierra will offer these parts.
280.... not 270 or 250 parts.

.......Prior to removing it, mark the indexing between the fork and the spindle arm. This indexing controls the Port to Stbd steering stops. One spline off, and your steering stops will be off.

..... when you install the stern drive, remove the transmission first.
Install the Intermediate housing and lower gear unit as one assembly.
Attach the shift cable.
Then install the transmission last.

All O-rings should be replaced. They do not go second-time-around.
Sierra will also offer these parts.




Your engine is very clean looking 5.0L SBC.

The green arrow points to your PDS.... primary drive shaft.
There will be two "open" bearings on this shaft.
DO NOT even question their condition. Replace these bearings!
You will need a 6206, a 6007 and two 35x62x7mm Timken or TCM seals.
These are industry standard bearings..... you do not need to purchase from Volvo Penta.
No Chinese bearings! Use Japanese, German or US.

Pump the cavity full of grease (while spinning the PDS) just prior to installing the AFT seal.
See note re; the AFT seal.




The exhaust manifolds and elbows (95mm outlets) can be Bar, Volvo Penta, Osco or any good manufacture as long as they are for this engine model.
volvo penta aq 225 exhaust manifold - Google Shopping






Your trailer axle spindle hubs are fitted with Bearing Buddies!
NOTE: Bearing Buddies DO NOT add grease to the wheel bearings!

Never trust what a previous owner says about wheel bearing condition.
Tear each hub down and inspect them.

By the way, that is a nice trailer.




When you are ready to begin putting things back together, post any questions that you may have, in the BOC Tech section.

I worked on the AQ series Volvo Penta engines/drives for 24 years..... I'd be glad to help you.



.....

[Turbon]

Thank You friends for all your suggestions - they are wellcome as this is my first motorboat/trailer combo.
How would I check the integrity of the structural transom core?. Remember that it has been out of the water for several years and has for sure dried up.
About the bearings in the PDS - the engine is supposed to have been restored so if the bearings has been replaced or not is a tricky one. I'll look into it before installing the engine.
Metro - I don't know - I will visit the shop on Thursday so I'll take a look .
I'm not sure about the electrical parts of the trailer - in one of the pics one can see some wiring so I suppose it has some kind of rear lights.
The cables shows in this pic . https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...photoid=676535

Thanks a lot / Seppo Ruuskanen

[2850Bounty]

The PDS bearings are inside of the flywheel cover. They often get overlooked and not replaced.
There is no known accurate method for checking their condition, unless the shaft is removed from the housing.
If you go to the trouble of removing the shaft, you might as well replace the two bearings and the two seals.
They are not expensive.

[Turbon]

Right, managed to get her rolling 👍🏻. There was still some pressure in the tyres. It rolls quite smooth after all those years standing still. I find it strange if I won’t need to add grease as there are nipples in the center of the bearings.

[2850Bounty]

Right, managed to get her rolling 👍🏻. There was still some pressure in the tyres. It rolls quite smooth after all those years standing still.
I find it strange if I won’t need to add grease as there are nipples in the center of the bearings.

Turbon, those center hub units are Bearing Buddies.
The common misnomer about Bearing Buddies, is that they add grease to the bearings! They DO NOT!




The center grease fittings directs grease to interior side of the spring loaded piston.

The piston spring pressure simply provides a small amount of grease pressure within the hub as to help prevent water intrusion.

In order to actually grease/lubricate the wheel bearings, the hub must be removed so that the roller cages can be removed.
The roller cages (if in good condition) will then need to be hand packed.

Today's axle spindles are ported. They offer a grease fitting at the end of the ported spindle.



They use a hub cap with a removable rubber plug to access the center spindle grease fitting.



The port directs the NEW grease to the inside of the inner roller cage area, just outside of the seal.
The grease comes back through the larger inner roller cage, thru the hub, and then through the smaller outer roller cage.
Wheels are turned during the process!

[Metrodriver]

On my transom I could see black colorisation towards the bottom, and confirmed is with a test drill. I have a thread on here describing the process,

https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/current-topics-gc6/technical-discussion-gc12/529641-omc-outdrive-removal-nearly-impossible

[2850Bounty]

I think that this thread should be moved to the Tech Section.