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2007 Bayliner 175

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    2007 Bayliner 175

    I finally talked the in-laws into letting me take over their 2007 Bayliner 175 that has been sitting in a covered, out-door storage facility for the last 8 years. ARGH! It has not been in the water since 2011. Supposedly it had been winterized. There is old gas in the tank. I bought a new deep-cell marine battery yesterday and a siphon pump for the gas and Sea-Foam to run through the engine. I am guessing that there are a million things to check but at the top: filters, water pump, and oil. The boat and 135 Mercury (3.0 L) look new. It was hardly used before they put it in storage. I am hoping to get it up and on the water next week. Any suggestions from the veteran boat owners??? What are my first steps here--if I want to do the work myself?

    #2
    After fuel and oil filter changes put her on the muffs and see if she’ll fire up. Run her around 1000-1200 rpm. Have someone watch oil pressure and temp gauges while you hover over the engine looking for signs of any leakage and putting your hands directly on all the exhaust components. If you can’t keep your hand on it then it’s to hot. I’d also suggest you have an IR temp gun and monitor temps everywhere while she’s running, anything approaching 190 if closed cooled &165 ish if raw water cooled read with the IR gun indicates a problem.
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    Comment


    • Wilson!
      Wilson! commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks. I did all of that... and it seems to be great. Now I am looking at the impeller. When I tried to accelerate after cruising for a half hour on the lake, the boat was having issues. It was late so I cruised back to the dock. I am going out to work on it today.

    #3
    Welcome!

    You actually have a pretty good chance of having an easy time getting it up and running.
    That 3.0 is a reliable motor.

    For long term reliability, have the lower unit water pump impellor changed.
    It has remained in the same position for 8 years and has a "set" to it..... and may not be real pliable anymore.
    Once that impeller is changed, you should have several years of reliable cruising.
    You will enjoy the results of your efforts!
    Present Boat- 2018 VR5 4.5/200hp Mercruiser
    Last Boat- 1998 Capri 1950CL 3.0 Mercruiser

    Comment


    • Wilson!
      Wilson! commented
      Editing a comment
      Great advice. Thank you! I got it up and running... and took it out on the water. She runs great.

      The acceleration is a little funky today. I cannot tell if there is debris or not. Other causes that I know of are: "spun" prop or a possible fuel line air leak. Any other ideas? I think I need to pull the boat out and do some work...

    #4
    2x on the water pump impeller change. I would do that before staring it up for the first time. Also check the bellows really well. That are at least 12 years old and mostly likely cracked and dried out.
    2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
    Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

    2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
    Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

    1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
    Evinrude 88 Special

    1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
    1992 Johnson 40HP.

    Comment


    • Wilson!
      Wilson! commented
      Editing a comment
      THank you! Great advice. Will keep you and everyone posted.

    #5
    Welcome and congrats on the boat. I had the same boat for years and loved it. Very reliable and easy to trailer and launch. One of the first upgrades was smart tabs which made a world of difference in performance.
    It's all a dream
    '03 245 5.7/BIII & '06 175

    Comment


    • Wilson!
      Wilson! commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you! Yeah... she still looks new. Great boat.

    #6
    This reply in in response to post 3.1--funky throttle response

    There should be a small filter up on the carb. If you have not checked that one, go ahead and do a visual inspection.

    Verify the choke plate is operating correctly.

    If not already, pull and inspect cap/rotor--storage could have accelerated internal corrosion.

    Pull the plugs and "read" them...….gap, evidence of sharp edges (which you want), color, deposits

    You also want to get the gasoline quality up to par as that could contribute to poor performance.

    Regarding the possible spun prop- pretty easy to check by pulling the prop and examining the hub parts.

    Now---other thoughts-----you need new tires....both the pair for the axle, and a spare tire with mount. Having a flat is the pits without a spare.

    Even if new in 2011, those tires are now wasted and can not be trusted.
    Present Boat- 2018 VR5 4.5/200hp Mercruiser
    Last Boat- 1998 Capri 1950CL 3.0 Mercruiser

    Comment


      #7
      +1 on trailer trailer...our 2012 may possibly have 150 miles on the tries, I door climate controlled storage in the winter and the tires ares dry rotted. Replacing them this summer as well as adding a spare to the trailer
      Hell, Michigan (yes we really live in a city named "Hell" in Michigan)
      2012 BR 185 - 3.0 TKS
      1999 Chaparral 233 Sunesta Ltd., 5.0 Volvo
      1985 Harris Flotebote Classic 240
      1993 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR
      1993 Yamaha Waverunner III
      1995 Yamaha Waverunner III GP
      1995 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR PRO

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