Looking at buying a Bayliner and need advice.-gctid803301

[Seabird10]

I am looking for advice on the difference between a 2000 Bayliner Capri 1950 and 2005 Bayliner 175 or 185. Obviously there is a 5 year age difference between the boats but what about the hull quality and ride etc.

Thanks

[Pcpete]

Welcome!

The differences are kind of like looking at the different years of Taurus or Mustang. They are subtle and mainly features not actual design or structure. If they look like a rebranded or model number, you are pretty much looking at what marketing decided would sell more boats.

[Chevy_mike]

Over the years growing up we had a

1986 Bayliner 1950 (5.0 I/O)

1987 Bayliner 175 (85 Outboard)

and I just recently purchased a 2001 Bayliner 215 (5.0 I/O)

So the 175 was fun, but the outboard, having to mix the oil with gas was a real pain, plus there was no hydraulic trim so that was a real pain as well. The boat was far too small to put in the ocean so it was just good for the lake, but for weekend trips to the lake it did us well.

the 1986 1950 had a nice deep hull so it was perfect for the ocean. It really was a great boat, the carbureted v8 had plenty of power to do whatever we wanted and it cut through the water better than the other boats. Unfortunately one of the lifters starting making a lot of noise, and instead of tearing it down my dad opted to just sell it as is.

However, this 2001 215 is great for the lake, but it does not have a deep hull at all like the bayliner 1950 had. The length and room is really nice but even out on the river in Arizona when it gets windy and the water gets choppy, it just doesn't cut through the water very well, I pretty much have to completely let off the throttle and just idle over the wakes not to slam down. Last summer when the river got choppy I was out there and my buddy has a 2005 Tahoe Q8 that is a 22feet, it has a nice deep V hull, I was following him and I could not keep up with him. He was cutting through the wakes like nothing, while I was going about 5mph trying not to slam down on the wakes, he kept having to stop and wait for me to catch up. Honestly, I don't think i'll ever even take it in the ocean, simply for that reason.

Keep in mind regarding the 175 and 185 usually those come in the 3.0 inboard outboard, as opposed to most of the 1950s I saw out there were either the 4.3 or 5.0 so keep in mind engine power as a factor of what you might want. I've never had the 4.3 or 3.0 so I can't comment on that like some others can, but I've been happy with the 220HP 5.0. It uses a quite a bit of gas but I've got plenty of power to have the boat loaded with people and pull the inner tube without issue.

So unfortunately I can't really answer like some of the others, but hopefully I am able to give you some ideas of what to consider.

-Mike

[Download_Complete]

"Seabird10" post=803301 wrote:
I am looking for advice on the difference between a 2000 Bayliner Capri 1950 and 2005 Bayliner 175 or 185. Obviously there is a 5 year age difference between the boats but what about the hull quality and ride etc.

Thanks

In plain English, the 1950 Capri Classic is the 1983 Capri hull reactivated. Yes, the boat design is literally 20 years old. It was also only available with the 3.0L 4 cylinder Merc.

Don't believe me? See for yourself.....

1983:



2000:





it was designed to be LIGHT, and efficient - with good performance on a small 4 cylinder engine. Some of these boats got V8s, but not in the year you are looking for.

The 175 is also only available with the 3.0, and is smaller than the 1950. It's a newer design, though. Is that important? I would say no....they will both plane, handle very nimbly, and be good boats.

The pick I would go with is a 185 with a 4.3L V6. This will split the difference in interior room, but be a newer desiign and with a larger engine.

In all cases you will get an Alpha One drive, and the same type of boat construction - fiberglass hull, wood structure, wood deck, with carpet glued over the wood. You will need to be very careful to keep the interior of the boat clean and dry if you want a long service life out of it.

[Seabird10]

So all of those models have a wood floor? I should likely have provided a few more details now that I see the array of responses which by the way I am thankful for. The boat is to be used in an inland lake up In Ontario, Canada. The lake is small say 10 x 10 miles or so. I have been leaning to a 3.0 L motor just because I figure that's all I need. With a 17 19 and 21 pitch prop it should be able to do anything and be a savings in money and easier to work on. I'd like to go over 40 mph with 2 in the boat at top speed. Towing will be mostly kids for the foreseeable future.

[builderdude]

Personally I'd go for an outboard powered boat in that size. Had a 125 merc on my 1800 and loved it. Maintenance was simple too.

[Download_Complete]

"Seabird10" post=803393 wrote:
So all of those models have a wood floor? I should likely have provided a few more details now that I see the array of responses which by the way I am thankful for. The boat is to be used in an inland lake up In Ontario, Canada. The lake is small say 10 x 10 miles or so. I have been leaning to a 3.0 L motor just because I figure that's all I need. With a 17 19 and 21 pitch prop it should be able to do anything and be a savings in money and easier to work on. I'd like to go over 40 mph with 2 in the boat at top speed. Towing will be mostly kids for the foreseeable future.

Any of the 3.0L boats will do what you want, but hit the 185 and I strongly suggest 4.3L V6.

And yes, all of these boats will have wood floors. Around 2005ish, Bayliner started offering fiberglass liners, but they are expensive options relative to the cost of the boat and few actually were ordered. I honesrtly have yet to see one.

If you like the Bayliner layout (and I don't blame you), try looking at Maxums. Same hulls, same layouts, higher grade of finish and most of them got fiberglass floors. The 17 footer was an 1800, and the higher end boats were called SR3s.

[Seabird10]

I'm hoping to find a boat around 2000 lbs. I think many of the others are well above this weight. My towing vehicle is a Subaru Forester rated to pull 2500 lbs. I don't tow much but I do want to be able to pull the boat out at the end of the season.

[Pcpete]

Download, our 1983 1950 Capri had a Volvo four banger with a 270 drive. If you look closely at you 1983 example you can see the Volvo white drive. Just being my anal self, sorry. That motor would push it at nearly 40 mph. It was a bit slower because it was one of about 50 Cutty cabins that had a hard top.

Great starter boat. I pulled it with a 1981 Ford Econoline E150 with a 300 ci six and a four speed overdrive transmission. The tow rating was real low, like in the 2500 pound area because it had really tall gears. 20 mpg at the start and 19.5 when I sold it eleven years and 136,000 miles later. It died, however, have trouble pulling our 1985 2450 Cierra Sunbridge at 5,500 pounds. I solved that with a '72 Land Cruiser with a 283. That thing would climb a tree.

If you are careful and your Subaru is out of warranty, I say go for it. But that's my stupid opinion.

[builderdude]

2000 lb boat is gonna probably gonna weigh around 2700 lbs or so on the trailer maybe more if loaded up with fuel and some gear.

[Chevy_mike]

Do you have far to tow, and are there any hills? Most of the smaller Bayliners (175) from what I've seen weigh about 2100lbs dry. Keep in mind thats before gear and the trailer.

[Seabird10]

The boat I have now is a Sunray 17' with an 85 hp Evinrude V4. I estimate it at about 1500 lbs before trailer. The car pulls that no problem. The 2005 bayliner 175 is listed at 1900 lbs with the 3.0l. I think 1900 plus trailer would keep it under 2500 lbs.

[itsabowtime2]

Don't forget about fuel and gear in the boat. And then whatever you pack in the tow vehicle. It adds up, quickly.

[Seabird10]

That will all be pretty much the same as what I have in this boat. So the difference will be between 300 and 500 lbs.

[Download_Complete]

"Seabird10" post=803596 wrote:
That will all be pretty much the same as what I have in this boat. So the difference will be between 300 and 500 lbs.

Which might be all the difference. I don't know what year Forester you have, but I recall some years have headgasket issues, and the early CVTs (if it's a later model) have premature failure problems.

If you are just pulling it in and out, with short-to-no travel time, then you can likely do it, if you are very careful.

For this reason I am leaning towards the 175 as a recommendation to you, and the newest one you can find.