Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Fresh water cooler-gctid696071

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Fresh water cooler-gctid696071

    MIdtec

    I have a Bayliner 246 Discovery with ENGINE 5.0 MPI 260 hp engine and a fresh water cooling system. This last summer I had to pull the boat out because the fresh water cooling tank sprung a leak. The pipe coming into the left side (drivers side, starboard ) of the cooling tank split. Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone have any idea why this would happen?

    #2
    Sounds like your set up probably with a part closed cooled engine (Exhaust on the raw water side). A split on the raw water side of the heat exchanger could be the result of it not being winterized and freezing inch: any pics you can post?
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    Comment


      #3
      Thank you for the suggestion but I am sure that this is not the result of poor winterizing. I am careful about the winterizing. I pull the boat out flush the engine every fall and run antifreeze through the system every year. Than store the boat in my shop. also the crack appeared in late August after running the boat all summer. :-( I have not taken the cooling system off yet so I cannot take any photos. The crack is in the underside of the starboard intake pipe not in the tank.

      midtec

      Comment


        #4
        Pictures?
        ..........
        Boatless at this time

        A veteran is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including their life."

        Comment


          #5
          I have not taken the cooling system off yet so I cannot take any photos.

          Comment


            #6
            It is possible that the area where it cracked was weakened by a previous owner not winterizing correctly. Or possibly it was dropped at some point in its life, or maybe a flaw in the original workmanship, and it finally showed up.
            Joel
            1987 3818 Hino 175
            "Knotty Girl"
            Prince Rupert B.C.

            Comment


              #7
              Nothing lasts forever.

              The weld went ?

              What year is the engine ?

              By chance an overheat occurred?
              Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

              1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

              '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

              Manalapan N.J

              Comment


                #8
                I got the boat new but could be factory defect.

                I am sure the joint failed.

                it is a 2009 not that old, did not see any overheating at the time it failed.

                Comment


                  #9
                  "midtec" post=696071 wrote:


                  I have a Bayliner 246 Discovery with ENGINE 5.0 MPI 260 hp engine and a fresh water cooling system. This last summer I had to pull the boat out because the fresh water cooling tank sprung a leak. The pipe coming into the left side (drivers side, starboard ) of the cooling tank split. Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone have any idea why this would happen?

                  ........... I am sure that this is not the result of poor winterizing. I am careful about the winterizing. I pull the boat out flush the engine every fall and run antifreeze through the system every year. Than store the boat in my shop. also the crack appeared in late August after running the boat all summer. I have not taken the cooling system off yet so I cannot take any photos. The crack is in the underside of the starboard intake pipe not in the tank.

                  midtec
                  [color]#000088 wrote:
                  You have a "Closed Cooling" system.

                  We don't yet know if Full or Half system.

                  Regardless, your Heat Exchanger will be of Shell and Tube style construction.

                  The tube bundle will have been either brazed or silver-soldered into the shell.

                  The shell will extend passt the tube bundle at either end (Port and Stbd)

                  Via Inlet/Outlet ports, the seawater will Enter/Exit the shell at either of these ends and will pass through the interior of the tube bundle.

                  The E/G (ethylene glycol) via Supply/Return ports, will be restricted to the exterior of the tube bundle.

                  Some H/E's have a coolant expansion tank above the main fube bundle area.

                  Until we see photos, it's tough to make any suggestions.

                  FYI: Fresh Water Cooling (aka FWC) is a term that has been carried over for years and years from the old days. You can find it still being used today in a misnomer fashion.

                  The correct term would be "Closed Cooling System".

                  . [/color]
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I'd try taking it to an auto radiator repair shop and see if they could fix it.
                    1999 Bayliner Ciera 2655
                    5.7 Bravo 3

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X