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  • Traxxas
    commented on 's reply
    Join us big boys over here

  • builderdude
    commented on 's reply
    Ah the big block, my mistakešŸ„“

  • Traxxas
    replied
    I'm running the 7.4 carbed and they only had a WOT of 4200ishhh. I think before my WOT speed was 30, it was geared pretty low. I like the 3200 cruise, it's before my secondaries open up, save some fuel

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  • builderdude
    replied
    Originally posted by Traxxas View Post
    Took the bravo three for a test run, and at WOT which is around 3800 rpm I'm doing about 34mph and cruising at 3200 I'm about 27mph. It geared for speed come to find out. I think the WOT should be 4200 though but I'm not pushing it too hard.
    WOT for a 5.7 should be 4400-4800 rpm. Your cruise speed at 3800 sounds good but you should be able to hit 40 at WOT. What were your previous numbers with the B2?

    Leave a comment:


  • Traxxas
    replied
    Took the bravo three for a test run, and at WOT which is around 3800 rpm I'm doing about 34mph and cruising at 3200 I'm about 27mph. It geared for speed come to find out. I think the WOT should be 4200 though but I'm not pushing it too hard.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lakerslayer
    replied
    Thanks, sounds like the rail might work, just to tow around the little ones on a tube, pretty sure it would have a hard time pulling me out on a single ski deep water start drown like a rat

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  • builderdude
    replied
    No real structure in that area above the light, the transom core itself stops a few inches below the rub rail. IMO the 2556 wont make a good ski boat.

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  • Lakerslayer
    replied
    Anyone ever mount a ski transome mount on their 2556, I bought a flush plate and have to bore a 2.5" hole, I was just curious if above the center rear light is a good location I have not looked up the transome construction details

    Leave a comment:


  • MadChap
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for the information. I don't look forward to the pulpit R&R but I know it will have to be done. Nice thing is, now the boat is in the desert so I'm not in a hurry.

  • builderdude
    commented on 's reply
    Thatā€™d makes sense, I donā€™t have the 200R on mine but I do know mine is a 2.00:1 overall ratio

  • Traxxas
    replied
    I'm assuming the 200R means 2.00
    Attached Files

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  • builderdude
    replied
    Originally posted by Traxxas View Post
    Yea replaced the B2. Ratio is 1.81 (I turned the input shaft 5 times clockwise and the marks on the prop shafts lined up at the 10 aclock position) I'm pretty sure and they have a 24p. It came off a 1995 25' Searay with same engine and similar weight so I'm hoping it works. Boat goes in July 1st for testing.

    Speaking of which, selling a 1995 Searay with a Bravo Two if anyone is interested!
    Ratio of the old B2?

    Leave a comment:


  • Centerline2
    replied
    Originally posted by MadChap View Post
    I

    Working on a number of typical issues.
    • *Bilge blower is super loud and it is disconnected from the exhaust hose. New one on order
    • all handrail bases are cracked and need replaced
    • Brought it home through 3+ hours of rain the bow pulpit is seriously leaking I believe around the wiring pass thru - anyone remove and reseal one?
    • Replace fresh water pump (came with one NIB)
    • Replace Bow Eye as the nuts are almost rusted off (Came with one NIB)
    • Get trailer brakes working - fortunately they are electric over hydraulic with stainless disks!
    • Engine cover struts need replaced - anyone with a part number
    • Engine cover hinges need replaced (came with pair NIB)
    • Secure the batteries as the boxes are just loose - probably add a second house battery
    • Replace lights with LED's
    • Replace all Head hoses
    • Window tracks need cleaned if not replaced - anyone with a supplier?
    • Get rid of the Pink vinyl. How do the padded portions come off?
    • I think I'd like to add some supports to the swim platform.

    You get the drill - normal boat stuff requiring boat dollars. On the good side the 5 & 8 year old grand sons totally dig the boat. The 5 YO calls it a camping boat.

    I'm sure I'll be on here more. I've already tried to search and have found some answers, but will be combing through the forums for more great ideas.

    Tim - aka MadChap

    ...... the anchor pulpit can be removed to be resealed.... its relatively heavy for its size, so two people are needed... depending on the year of the boat, they used epoxy to bond the pulpit to the hull in an attempt to make it waterproof and never work loose, but it was the wrong way to do it...
    so once the bolts are out, it may have to be pried off by lifting up hard on the front of it.... on my boat, it peeled the gelgoat off the hull underneath the pulpit, which isnt an issue in this case....

    after i got it removed, I cleaned up the hull/deck and painted it with epoxy to reseal it.... then used a grinder to remove the gelcoat debris from the underside of the pulpit... it was surprising to me how UN-level the original mounting surface of the pulpit was, but I used epoxy and cloth to built it up level, so it mated with the deck properly without needing an epoxy filler to keep it from rocking, or having the hull bent/form to it by tightening the bolts....
    once both surfaces were prepped, I used 4200 around the edge of the mating surface and around the bolt holes, and mated the pulpit and deck together.... AND built a large backing plate to thigten the bolts against..... its surprising hom much more rigid it is and doesnt have the little bit of spring like it did before..

    .......the bow eye... when prepping to install it, bed the inner side of the hull with a thick layer of epoxy past to level the vee shape and spread the load of the pull on the eye.... after it sets, drill the holes, using the existing holes in the hull as the template.... and use a solid backer plate of the largest size possible to back up the nuts against the epoxy....

    ..... engine cover struts are over rated.... the hatch isnt that heavy and is much less prone to problems without the struts... the struts add stress to the hinges and where the struts are mounted ALL the time.... my hatch was trying to push forward when it was closed, so I removed the struts and the problem went away... which, this will also address the hinge issue you have.

    ...... undoubtedly the window tracks should be replaced, almost a certainty if you try to remove them...... a good scrubbing or a "low pressure" pressure washing will get the moss and debris out, just make sure the scuppers are open and drain freely.

    I cant help you with the pink vinyl, as mine doesnt have any and never will.... and i think you have everything else is fairly self explanatory... have fun working on your "new" boat, its one of bayliners best designed models.....



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  • Traxxas
    replied
    Yea replaced the B2. Ratio is 1.81 (I turned the input shaft 5 times clockwise and the marks on the prop shafts lined up at the 10 aclock position) I'm pretty sure and they have a 24p. It came off a 1995 25' Searay with same engine and similar weight (im about 1000 pounds heavier) so I'm hoping it works. Boat goes in July 1st for testing.

    Speaking of which, selling a 1995 Searay with a Bravo Two if anyone is interested!

    Leave a comment:


  • builderdude
    replied
    Originally posted by Traxxas View Post
    Got a Bravo Three attached. It had some rough corrosion but brought it back to life.
    Have you had a chance to sea trial it yet? very interested in your cruising speeds/rpm etc.
    Assuming you replaced a B2?
    Whats the ratio of the new B3?
    What prop pitch?

    Leave a comment:

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