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    What I do: clean the keepers as I pull them from the pot. Stick them in a zip lock in the fridge until you cook em, usually within 2-3 hours. Fish box eats up very valuable storage space IMO. Wash down pump can be T’d into the head pick up but often mine will begin to suck air. Yes I have a check valve installed.
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    Comment


      Originally posted by Corky View Post
      I have a 1991 2556 with the non-removable fish box. My plan is to insulate the box, then install a raw washdown. I was thinking of plumbing it into the sea water intake for the head and putting a tee with a backflow valve on it so I’m not sucking toilet water. 😊 I would use it not only to wash the deck down, but plumb it into the fish box to help keep crab alive. I would drill a drain from the port side of the fish box out the port side of the boat with a new thru-hull. I figured this would be the best way to use the fish box and help keep the deck clear when pulling crab pots.
      Anybody have any suggestions or thoughts on this?
      i thought the box would be a good place to put the crab also, but in practice it doesnt work too well...

      I usually have 3 people on deck and the hatch cover needs to be off most of the time, which is a tripping.hazard... and after catching 4-5 limits, they all.have to ne handled again to remove them from the well... its better to have a large ice chest and not have the extra step in getting the crab off the boat and not worring a out what to do with the hatch cover or about someone stepping in the open hole....

      i cut the "fish box" out and doubled the room and put totes in there to hold extra gear, bar-b-que, crawdad traps and cooker....


      NU LIBERTE'
      Salem, OR

      1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
      5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
      N2K equipped throughout..
      2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
      2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
      '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
      Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

      Comment


        I had a bait tank on the swim platform of my 2252 for crabs. I only put it on when i went crabbing. That way I could throw back the smaller ones after I got my limit.
        Esteban
        Panama City, Panama
        Former Bayliners 3218, 2859, 2252, 1952
        Currently looking for 32xx in South Florida

        Comment


          I wanted a bimini for our trip but didnt quite want to spend a bunch of money yet so I bought the bimini from Walmart for 99, and got a couple of rail mounting brackets off amazon for 30. Turned out pretty decent for 130. Quality is actually surprisingly good. Some day Ill use stainless bows and use this as a template
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • builderdude
            builderdude commented
            Editing a comment
            Looks great! I like it low like that🙂

          • Traxxas
            Traxxas commented
            Editing a comment
            I've seen a few ones that were way too tall, they look kind of goofy to me :/

          • Centerline2
            Centerline2 commented
            Editing a comment
            that looks good. I dont like the look of the high setting biminis either.... I didnt think of mounting mine to the hand rail to get it lower, so i cut the legs shorter and made it low profile like that, then mounted it to the on top of the coaming of the fly bridge inside the windscreen.... it folds back and down so it stows nicely and I dont have to take it off to transport or back the boat under the boat shed, unlike how it was installed when I bought the boat.

          Hay all. Anyone use a short shaft tiller as a trolling motor off the swim deck? I need a secondary engine. I found a 15hp on craigslist but I don't want to get it if it's not long enough.

          Comment


            Originally posted by Corky View Post
            Hay all. Anyone use a short shaft tiller as a trolling motor off the swim deck? I need a secondary engine. I found a 15hp on craigslist but I don't want to get it if it's not long enough.
            Think you’ll need a long shaft, the cavitation plate needs to be somewhat flush with the bottom of the hull to be effective. Think around 30” or so.
            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment


              Hi all, new to me 2556. Upgraded from a 20’ Cuddy with an outboard. Boat is in great shape, but needs some love. So far I’ve cut the stbd side and compounded it, cleaned up the teak, and treated the potable water tank.

              I have some electrical gremlins to work out. All the contacts in the upper helm need to be removed and cleaned up, my fridge doesn’t work, trim tabs don’t work, range doesn’t have electric power, no water flow out of the hot side of the sink, and a leak during heavy rain in the head. Gonna be a busy winter but I love the boat. Way more room than my previous boat but small enough to handle with just myself and my wife.
              Attached Files

              Comment


                Originally posted by DSMRossi View Post
                Hi all, new to me 2556. Upgraded from a 20’ Cuddy with an outboard. Boat is in great shape, but needs some love. So far I’ve cut the stbd side and compounded it, cleaned up the teak, and treated the potable water tank.

                I have some electrical gremlins to work out. All the contacts in the upper helm need to be removed and cleaned up, yep, they get weathered up there and start to give you issues. my fridge doesn’t work, What about when your plugged in to shore power? There should be a fuse at the lower helm for the 12 volt operation. Also make sure the switch on the inside of the fridge is on. trim tabs don’t work, Are these Bennett tabs? range doesn’t have electric power, Again, are you checking this while connected to shore power? The electrical elements are not powered by the 12 volt system. no water flow out of the hot side of the sink, Is this the case with both the head and galley faucets? Perhaps the water heater has been bypassed. and a leak during heavy rain in the head. It’s possible the leak originates at the forward windshield area and runs around the interior fiberglass “gutter area” the window frames bolt to. I have the same issue and found the source using paper towels tucked around the base of the window frames. Gonna be a busy winter but I love the boat. Way more room than my previous boat but small enough to handle with just myself and my wife. Agree, it’s fairly easy to trailer if that’s what you do and I’ve launched, retrieved and moored mine solo many times.
                Keep us informed of your upgrades and or progress etc.
                happy boating 👍
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment




                  Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                  Keep us informed of your upgrades and or progress etc.
                  happy boating 👍
                  Nothing on range or fridge when hooked up to shore power, fridge switch is on. I’m going to pull it out this weekend and make sure 12V is getting to the board; however, the 12v fused connection under the lower helm is seeing power so I imagine there’s power at the fridge.

                  I had water puddled up in that gutter-type area inboard of the stbd window. I imagine that’s where it’s coming from. It was as far fwd as the galley, so I have to seal that whole area up.

                  The tabs are Bennett, but like the rest of the boat, I’m not sure if I even have power at the switch. It doesn’t look like anybody really hacked into the factory wire harness which is nice, but it’s apparent some routine maintenance has been ignored.

                  Comment


                  • Centerline2
                    Centerline2 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    if its the original fridge, it will have a 10a fuse on top of it after you remove it from the cabinet,,,, hopefully this will be the problem,

                    the range I cant comment on what to look for... but I see no good reason to have an electric stovetop on a small boat....

                    if the window track is full of water and running inside the boat, you need to glean the drain holes on the outside of the frame... you may need to pull the track out to do this.... I usually cut a small nip out of the rubber track where the drain cutout is so that it has more room there and doesnt plug up as easily/quickly....

                    the tabs should have a fuse as well, but all the wires powering the pump are at the pump, and the wires going forward to the switch is only a control wire which activates the soleniods....
                    you can find troubleshooting procedures online for this....

                  • builderdude
                    builderdude commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Unless things have changed the Bennett helm control switch is directly powered via a large 10 gauge lead (Orange w red stripe) usually protected at its source with a 20 amp fuse.

                  Yeah factory Bennett tabs. Plan is to pull the fridge this weekend and check that out.

                  I’m missing the throttle/fwd/rev controls for the interior cockpit, any idea where to get the correct replacement or do I need to just grab a universal one and make it work?

                  Comment


                  • builderdude
                    builderdude commented
                    Editing a comment
                    eBay might be the best bet if looking for the same type of helm control

                  • Centerline2
                    Centerline2 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    a universal controller will work, but the oem style is decent and works good, and you can find them new or used... our boats were equipped with the Uflex mod. B-50.... the model B-59 has an interlock which prevents the engagement of the shift lever if the throttle lever is activated too far off idle... the interlock is unnecessary except for boaters who get confused as to which lever is which and which way to shift it/throttle it... such as some of the people that rent bare boat charters

                    http://www.ultraflexgroup.com/en/cat...-controls.html

                  Welp... fridge is obviously getting 12V, so it looks like that’ll be getting replaced. Found a replacement for a few hundred bucks local. Would probably cost more to have this one repaired than simply replace it.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                    I thought the 110 side would be hard wired, I was wrong
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                      Go figure... These 2x wires have 12V regardless of whether the fridge switch is on or not
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                      • builderdude
                        builderdude commented
                        Editing a comment
                        12volt fridge supply comes from the fuse panel at the lower helm. It’ll be hot regardless of the switch selection in the fridge. Yours may be different being an older model.

                      Looks like these are coming in from the stern area. Somebody may have tried to bypass the helm at one point assuming that’s why the fridge went down.

                      So the only way to shut the fridge down is the on/off switch inside the fridge itself?

                      Anyhow I was able to get it to run by jumping the thermostat wires, ice cold for an old fridge. Going to have to source a thermostat that will work.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by DSMRossi View Post
                        Looks like these are coming in from the stern area. Somebody may have tried to bypass the helm at one point assuming that’s why the fridge went down. It’s quite possible the wiring on the older models is a bit different.

                        So the only way to shut the fridge down is the on/off switch inside the fridge itself? Yes, at least that’s how most of the ones I’ve seen are set up, including mine.

                        Anyhow I was able to get it to run by jumping the thermostat wires, ice cold for an old fridge. Going to have to source a thermostat that will work. Sounds like you’ve found the issue, I’d think a new t stat would be readily available.
                        Keep at it dude, these are great boats for there size
                        Dave
                        Edmonds, WA
                        "THE FIX"
                        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                        Misc. projects thread
                        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                        Comment

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