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    #31
    Thanks' Dave,
    No water yet. I read some advice that recommended a 2000 GPM pump for above a run-a-bout to 30'. I think I'd be happy with a 1500 and a 900.
    As to the blower, I seem to remember that there should be a pickup on both sides of the engine, right?
    Do you have any idea about the right manuals?

    Edit to add info -
    Dave, looking at Rule pumps and ran across a Rule LP900s which is a very low profile auto pump at 900 GPH (hour, I know) for about $60.
    It looks like it will fit down at the very bottom. We'll see.
    Last edited by ChasR; 02-21-2018, 09:56 PM. Reason: Adding info on pump

    Comment


      #32
      Yep,Rule low profile will fit under no problem, mine will have seperate float switch. Service manual 24 Bravo drives and 28 305 & 350 should be the ones.
      The blower is on starboard side aft corner, a 4" hose should run from deep in the bilge to the blower then up to the starboard interior ventilator box. The port side ventilator may just be an exterior grill cover only completely open. Provides adequate cross ventilation but you may discover they don't do well keeping out the rain.
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by ChasR View Post
        No water yet. I read some advice that recommended a 2000 GPM pump for above a run-a-bout to 30'. I think I'd be happy with a 1500 and a 900.
        I think where you plan to run matters a lot too. This guy was about 30 miles offshore when a passenger asked why the bilge pump was still running. He popped open the engine hatch and it's got water in it. He was picking up water faster than his bilge pumps could empty in. (Link goes to a downloadable video.)

        https://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/th.../#post-4344452

        Fortunately the Coast Guard managed to get to him in 30 min (with some big-ass pumps), and a Navy ship doing exercises nearby came over to assist if needed. If you're staying within 10-30 miles of the coast, then a USCG rescue is probably a viable option.. But if you're planning to go further offshore where you might have to stay afloat for an hour before help arrives, you definitely you want more pump capacity.

        And you're not just trying to prevent the boat from sinking. You're trying to prevent seawater from reaching high enough to begin corroding engine parts. An extra $50 for a higher capacity bilge pump could wind up saving you thousands of dollars in engine repair costs. As insurance costs go, it's pretty cheap (since it's a one-time charge).

        As to the blower, I seem to remember that there should be a pickup on both sides of the engine, right?
        Mine is on the starboard, along with the pickup hose. Dunno if it's original, but it's split into a Y, with one end hanging down close to the engine mounts, the other end shoved up near the holding tank.
        1994 2556, 350 MAG MPI Horizon, Bravo 2

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by Solandri View Post
          Mine is on the starboard, along with the pickup hose. Dunno if it's original, but it's split into a Y, with one end hanging down close to the engine mounts, the other end shoved up near the holding tank.
          My starboard ventilator also has the extra "pickup hose" hose attached (3"). It comes down to the area you've described. Never quite understood why it was attached to the same collector box as the blower exhausted to, seems the blower could possibly push some of the exhausted air flow back down into the engine bay. I haven't changed or removed it yet but I think it'd be better to pull in all fresh air from the opposite side.I've actually glassed up some custom collector boxes for this reason and to keep the rain water out, port side is on, still need to change out the starboard.
          Dave
          Edmonds, WA
          "THE FIX"
          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
          Misc. projects thread
          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

          Comment


            #35
            2556 mpg??? at different speeds?

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by vladafizio View Post
              2556 mpg??? at different speeds?
              all boats will be a bit different depending on how they are set up and with what engine, outdrive and prop.... AND how well the boat is balanced and trimmed with how much load they carry... but around 2mpg is about normal when set up right... even when set up perfectly, the actual speed at one runs makes a huge difference in mpg.

              my 2556 is considered to be heavily loaded, and when I had a 13p prop on my Cobra outdrive behind a stock 5.7, i was getting about 1.2mpg when on plane, no matter the speed.... but I was over propped and could only make 4200rpm and was running about 20-21mph...... but then at about 1000rpm/5-6mph, the meter would show a steady 5.5mpg....

              this past weekend was the first time Ive been out since changing to a 11P PROP.... now I can make 24.5 mph @ 4500rpm, and the meter shows 2.3mpg at 3500 to 4000rpm... I didnt check it at wot, or at lower speeds, but its nearly twice as efficient with the right prop on it for the gearing it has...., of which im not exactly sure of because the outdrive has been changed at some time in the past.

              I think I have a higher geared outdrive than comes stock behind a 5.7, and that is why my prop is only an 11P (or maybe its because im loaded so heavy).... i think a 10P would give the extra 1500rpm I would like to be able to make..

              but with all this said, I can STILL find an operating speed where my fuel burn rate is less than a mile per gallon.... which is why its nice to have the meters/gauges to show you instantly where the sweet spots are in the operating range....

              if you can get 2mpg at 3500-4000 rpm, which is cruise speed, you are close to as good as it gets...


              NU LIBERTE'
              Salem, OR

              1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
              5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
              N2K equipped throughout..
              2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
              2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
              '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
              Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

              Comment


                #37
                That’s good info Centerline, I don’t have a fuel flow meter on mine, not sure I really want to know how much fuel I’m burning
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                  That’s good info Centerline, I don’t have a fuel flow meter on mine, not sure I really want to know how much fuel I’m burning
                  my boat was equipped when I bought it... it has both the floscan 5500 and the n2k version installed...
                  when the weather gets better, i will do a bit more testing with it to check fuel usage at different speeds and rpm.... I have the 12x24 tabs, so that may make a little difference, but after doing some checking around, I am to understand the outdrive mounted hydofin works great in conjunction with tabs as it creates additional lift a bit farther back so it allows the boat to stay on plane at even lower speeds. this is something I will be able to report on also as i have a couple different styles of hydrofins laying around to experiment with...

                  as it is now, I run with my drive fully down, as I cant tell much difference by trimming it up, and I cant really tell where the drive is at anyway.... except when I know its fully down.

                  on other boats Ive had WITHOUT trim tabs, in a FOLLOWING SEA, a hydro foil on the trimmed up outdrive allows for easier control of the boat, and is a lot safer as it helps to prevent the bow from digging into the trough.... I dont see why it wouldnt be the same with a boat equipped with tabs, as long as the tabs are FULLY retracted, and using the the trim of the outdrive to help with keeping the bow up and preventing a broach...


                  NU LIBERTE'
                  Salem, OR

                  1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
                  5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
                  N2K equipped throughout..
                  2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
                  2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
                  '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
                  Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by Centerline2 View Post

                    all boats will be a bit different depending on how they are set up and with what engine, outdrive and prop.... AND how well the boat is balanced and trimmed with how much load they carry... but around 2mpg is about normal when set up right... even when set up perfectly, the actual speed at one runs makes a huge difference in mpg.

                    my 2556 is considered to be heavily loaded, and when I had a 13p prop on my Cobra outdrive behind a stock 5.7, i was getting about 1.2mpg when on plane, no matter the speed.... but I was over propped and could only make 4200rpm and was running about 20-21mph...... but then at about 1000rpm/5-6mph, the meter would show a steady 5.5mpg....

                    this past weekend was the first time Ive been out since changing to a 11P PROP.... now I can make 24.5 mph @ 4500rpm, and the meter shows 2.3mpg at 3500 to 4000rpm... I didnt check it at wot, or at lower speeds, but its nearly twice as efficient with the right prop on it for the gearing it has...., of which im not exactly sure of because the outdrive has been changed at some time in the past.

                    I think I have a higher geared outdrive than comes stock behind a 5.7, and that is why my prop is only an 11P (or maybe its because im loaded so heavy).... i think a 10P would give the extra 1500rpm I would like to be able to make..

                    but with all this said, I can STILL find an operating speed where my fuel burn rate is less than a mile per gallon.... which is why its nice to have the meters/gauges to show you instantly where the sweet spots are in the operating range....

                    if you can get 2mpg at 3500-4000 rpm, which is cruise speed, you are close to as good as it gets...
                    Hello!
                    Take in their ranks the owners Bayliner 2556!
                    I have 1989 Bayliner 2560 (2556) Convertible OMC Cobra 5,7L.
                    Question: 24.5 mph @ 4500rpm - that is, the boat was accelerated to 39,42 kph?

                    Sorry for the clarity of the translation into English

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by Maxim_23 View Post

                      Hello!
                      Take in their ranks the owners Bayliner 2556!
                      I have 1989 Bayliner 2560 (2556) Convertible OMC Cobra 5,7L.

                      Question: 24.5 mph @ 4500rpm - that is, the boat was accelerated to 39,42 kph?
                      the conversion you have listed is correct... if that is the question.

                      4500rpm was all I could turn with the 11p prop, loaded as I was at the time.

                      Other 2560/2556 boats with different outdrives, engines or weight loading can make a substantial difference in speed....



                      NU LIBERTE'
                      Salem, OR

                      1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
                      5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
                      N2K equipped throughout..
                      2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
                      2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
                      '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
                      Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by Centerline2 View Post

                        the conversion you have listed is correct... if that is the question.

                        4500rpm was all I could turn with the 11p prop, loaded as I was at the time.

                        Other 2560/2556 boats with different outdrives, engines or weight loading can make a substantial difference in speed....
                        Probably right where it needs to be as far as recommended WOT.
                        Amazing what a B2 does for this boat.
                        Dave
                        Edmonds, WA
                        "THE FIX"
                        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                        Misc. projects thread
                        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                          Probably right where it needs to be as far as recommended WOT.
                          Amazing what a B2 does for this boat.
                          its close enough for now. I would like it to turn about 4650... for those times i need that little bit of extra due to loading... but then, it will be rare if I ever need to run that hard.

                          I know the Bravo II is a good drive, but the other option that was offered in some years was the Volvo.... how does it compare with the B2? my local shop talks about the conversion to a volvo, which they say is easier and quicker, but what about the efficiency of the drive itself?.... I know volvo has built some good strong drives, and the older ones were so quick and easy to work on....

                          if switching to a B2 from a Cobra, do you know if the transom hole needs to be filled in and recut, or is the cobra cutout about the same for the B2?


                          NU LIBERTE'
                          Salem, OR

                          1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
                          5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
                          N2K equipped throughout..
                          2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
                          2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
                          '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
                          Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by Centerline2 View Post

                            its close enough for now. I would like it to turn about 4650... for those times i need that little bit of extra due to loading... but then, it will be rare if I ever need to run that hard.

                            I know the Bravo II is a good drive, but the other option that was offered in some years was the Volvo.... how does it compare with the B2? my local shop talks about the conversion to a volvo, which they say is easier and quicker, but what about the efficiency of the drive itself?.... I know volvo has built some good strong drives, and the older ones were so quick and easy to work on....

                            if switching to a B2 from a Cobra, do you know if the transom hole needs to be filled in and recut, or is the cobra cutout about the same for the B2?
                            Im not much help with this, I think going to a B2 or B3 may require glass work and flywheel cover swap along with the addition of an engine mounted raw water pump, I've read the Volvo SX may swap right in though. Maybe ask about that in tech, the VP dudes would know more...
                            Dave
                            Edmonds, WA
                            "THE FIX"
                            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                            Misc. projects thread
                            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by Centerline2 View Post

                              the conversion you have listed is correct... if that is the question.

                              4500rpm was all I could turn with the 11p prop, loaded as I was at the time.

                              Other 2560/2556 boats with different outdrives, engines or weight loading can make a substantial difference in speed....
                              Confuses only one thing: why is the speed so low with such parameters of the prop and 4500 rpm?

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by Maxim_23 View Post

                                Confuses only one thing: why is the speed so low with such parameters of the prop and 4500 rpm?
                                an 11pitch prop is a low speed prop. if my outdrive was geared as OEM, I would probably need a 15pitch.... so rather than asking why my speed is so low with the parameters of the prop, one should be wondering how my boat can go so fast with the 11pitch prop on it...

                                my outdrive has been replaced by a previous owner, and I suspect it is an outdrive from behind a 454 or 460, which is the only logical explanation I can think of for the higher gearing...


                                NU LIBERTE'
                                Salem, OR

                                1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
                                5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
                                N2K equipped throughout..
                                2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
                                2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
                                '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
                                Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

                                Comment


                                • builderdude
                                  builderdude commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  When it's on the trailer, you thought about counting engine revolutions to prop revolution to find out what the current gearing is?
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