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    #16
    Builderdude (dave) had it in his 2556. Pretty sure it was port side only. All 2556 would have it i would think. Bayliner would have built the boat and added the ballast to make it sit flat. The layout of the interior makes it heavier starboard side.
    Doug
    1995 496cu in. 2859 Bravo ll
    The Doghouse
    Prince George BC

    Comment


      #17
      Hi Dave and all you helpers. I am in NZ and acquiring a 2556 and I fear it’s fuel tank may need replacing. I read with interest and admiration your posts on your own renovation, but unfortunately the posts I can access start after you remove the tank so I missed the tank removal process. Can you please advise me:

      1 if the fish box and engine are removed can the tank be taken out through the engine hatch?.

      2 can anyone provide the dimensions of the fuel tank.







      Comment


        #18
        Welcome to the club!
        Yes, engine and fish box removed. The rear fuel tank bulkhead, and the forward portion of the engine stringers need to be cut out and the fuel tank can be removed through the engine bay hatch.
        This pic was taken prior to yanking the fuel tank aft to break it free from it being glassed into the hull. Tank dimensions are 48" wide 12" tall at the center not 100% on the length but thinking 58 or so.
        Note: I completely removed the engine stringers but don't think it's necessary, just an angled cut off the forward section should give the clearance needed Click image for larger version  Name:	image.jpeg Views:	1 Size:	392.2 KB ID:	401188
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #19
          Wow Dave! Thanks so much for the prompt reply and just the information I needed. Somewhere in your posts the measurement of 56 inches has been mentioned and so I presume that is the length. My boat has been converted to a Yanmar turbocharged four-cylinder diesel which is an efficient lightweight 230 hp engine. Not the same power as some of your big US grunters but good enough to cruise at 23 kn and max out at about 30 kn. More importantly over here the price of gas is twice the price of diesel. Thanks so much for your help.

          Comment


            #20
            Cool power package, post up some pics when ya get a chance
            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by builderdude View Post
              Solandri, curious if the gear ratio was changed in your B2 going from a BBC to a SBC. What ratio is it currently and what prop type and pitch you running?
              No idea. I'm going off a receipt in the boat's records from when the engine was swapped. The surveyor listed the current ratio as 2.0:1. The prop is the larger 17 3/4", with 21" pitch. The spare prop (which I'm currently using since I took the main off to have the edges straightened and fixed) is 18", and I think 20" pitch. I'll have to look at it again. Performance was almost identical. The 18" feels slightly better (haven't added VesselView yet so no quantitative measurements), but that may just be because the 17 3/4" had a few dings and chips on its edges.

              Originally posted by Patto View Post
              Hi Dave and all you helpers. I am in NZ and acquiring a 2556 and I fear it’s fuel tank may need replacing. I read with interest and admiration your posts on your own renovation, but unfortunately the posts I can access start after you remove the tank so I missed the tank removal process. Can you please advise me:

              1 if the fish box and engine are removed can the tank be taken out through the engine hatch?.

              2 can anyone provide the dimensions of the fuel tank.
              Replacing the fuel tank on the 2556 (or most Bayliners it seems) is a major endeavor. Unless you plan to do it yourself, be prepared to pay a lot for a shop to do it for you. Probably close to US$10k.

              The original tank was made by Coastline Equipment in Bellingham, Washington. If you call them up and ask nicely, they'll email you a PDF of the original shop drawings for the tank. I'm reluctant to post it here since it's obviously their copyrighted diagram. But since if you're in NZ, if you PM me I can send it to you.
              1994 2556, 350 MAG MPI Horizon, Bravo 2

              Comment


              • builderdude
                builderdude commented
                Editing a comment
                Thanks dude, same ratio I'm running, seems to get up on plane real quick. On the fuel tank R/R I had a quote from the boat yard for about 5k and I think they charge about triple for materials.

              #22
              Just love my 89' 2556. Taking Offers. NEG@15K 5.7 OMC fresh water cooled, call 914-837-4420

              Comment


                #23
                Sharp looking boat Chris, Maybe list it in boats for sale.....
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...-for-sale-gc13
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment


                  #24
                  Thanks dude, same ratio I'm running, seems to get up on plane real quick. On the fuel tank R/R I had a quote from the boat yard for about 5k and I think they charge about triple for materials.
                  Dave, I think part of the reason I was quoted $10k was because it was in the middle of prime fishing/boating season here (September). I actually had to call a half dozen shipyards before finding one which didn't have a 1-2 month wait. The $10k quote also included fabricating a new tank. I called the original manufacturer and either they've raised their prices or they were charging extra because of the time of year. They quoted me $900 for a new tank with a 1 month wait, about $500 to ship it to Los Angeles. The local shipyard offered to fab it for $1500 with no wait, so it was a wash. If this had happened during the winter, I certainly would've waited and shopped around for lower prices.

                  I also found a second receipt which explains what happened to the original engine in more detail (the boat has had 3 previous owners, so I was getting the story second or third hand). I'm no longer sure the original engine was a 454 like I was told, since the receipts don't mention any additional work on the mounts or outdrive. Anyway, here's the story:

                  Engine noise at 1500 rpm

                  Engine developed severe knocking sound, signs of overheating once stopped. Recent service on vessel was performed.

                  Pulled engine from boat, diagnosed as seizure of engine, contaminating the engine with metallic particles, likely from partial loss of lubrication during overheat condition. Oil had been replaced during recent service with no other deficiencies suggesting lack of service sere noted.

                  Engine raw waterpump shows signs of meltdown, engine exhaust rubbers show signs of insufficient cooling. Suspect customer picked up a plastic bag in the water on the sterndrive which blocked raw water flow to the cooling mechanism. At cruising speed such loss of coolant water will damage an engine in a relative short amount of time. Evidence of coolant in oil, suggesting warpage. This engine is beyond realistic repair.

                  Drive checks out OK, gimble bearing good.
                  And the thru-hull on my boat we'd discussed before supply cooling water was indeed installed along with the new engine. It's listed in the receipt. The PO like added it because he was pissed that a 10 cent plastic bag had cost him CA$20k in repairs. I'm going to always be sure to open up that second cooling intake seacock every time I go out now (mechanic said it wasn't necessary), and take extra care to avoid running over floating debris..
                  1994 2556, 350 MAG MPI Horizon, Bravo 2

                  Comment


                    #25
                    On the bravo drives the original set up was designed to meet the cooling needs but the water hose in the gimbal housing can also become severely restricted over time from expanding corrosion (Bravoitis). Lots of guys run a dedicated through hull to supply cooling water to the raw water pump, definitely not a bad idea. IMO it'd be most important to make sure your engine alarm is functioning properly so when temps hit 205F you'll be able to shut it down before things get cooked.
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                      #26
                      First pic....bad bravoitis. 2nd pic ......dedicated thru hull raw water intake system with strainer.

                      Way better than the restricted oem setup. 1 1/4" all the way through.
                      Doug
                      1995 496cu in. 2859 Bravo ll
                      The Doghouse
                      Prince George BC

                      Comment


                      • builderdude
                        builderdude commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Nice set up sketch, Cant remember, did you block off the OEM water path from the drive?

                      #27
                      Yes. I bought the quicksilver block off plate from the dealer. Cut the water intake hose where it shows in the manual for this setup. Was simple to do with the motor out while rebuilding the transom and stringers. Hardest part was getting myself to drill the hole in the bottom of the boat for the thru hull fitting!!lol
                      Doug
                      1995 496cu in. 2859 Bravo ll
                      The Doghouse
                      Prince George BC

                      Comment


                        #28
                        Hi everyone. You've probably heard this one before, but I got a good buy on a 1994 Bayliner 2556 last fall and I'm waiting for better weather to start my work. It needs a lot of work because the last owner didn't keep up with the maintenance, or pretty much anything else. I believe the boat and motor are sound. I looked at a lot of boats last fall, mostly twins at 28' & 29', but when I saw the 2556 I knew that was the boat I wanted. I'm going to start with the engine and well so I need to figure out what I've got so I can get a manual for the engine and outdrive. I found the original engine issue card with the following information:

                        Engine Serial number - 4-57B110GS and OF128055
                        Stern Drive Serial number - OF184810 Stern Drive Part number - 5-220200GS
                        Transom Plate - 6-020005GS and OF209053
                        Hand notes stating Bravo II and 5.7L

                        I've found a couple guides posted on line but my serial numbers are not included. While searching I downloaded Mercruiser manuals 24, 28 and 31, but can't figure out which one applies, if any.

                        On an easier problem(s). The blower failed so the guy removed it and never replaced it. It would be great if someone could recommend a replacement, maybe better than stock. Also, he had replaced the bilge pump with one I'm pretty sure was not stock and it doesn't work either.I'd like to replace it with a 2,000GPM pump and an additional automatic pump that will keep me afloat while docked. I would welcome any solutions you guys have for that one also.

                        I've been a boater for all my life, but never had a cruiser. I knew this would be a big step up, but had no idea it involved so many systems. Not much is familiar.
                        But, I bought it and I'm taking it back to a first class cruiser.
                        Thanks' for any help or advice you might provide.

                        Comment


                          #29
                          ChasR, is she taking on water? My 93 also has the 5.7 and B2 drive. My engine has some upgrades but I think you'll be pleased with that set up. The space under the engine is a bit tight for a 2000 gph pump but is possible if you remove the pad from the bottom of the hull, I was able to fit a 1500 with seperate float switch just forward of the deep portion of the oil pan. A second 900 gph is due to be installed directly under the deep portion also with separate float switch. Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	5
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                          Attached Files
                          Dave
                          Edmonds, WA
                          "THE FIX"
                          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                          Misc. projects thread
                          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                          Comment


                            #30
                            On the blower I'd just get a decent inline turbo blower they're not expensive and can be replaced easily when they start to rattle. The 2556 with the small block has plenty of room to get to everything.
                            Dave
                            Edmonds, WA
                            "THE FIX"
                            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                            Misc. projects thread
                            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                            Comment

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