Outdrive bypass on Alpha One Gen One-gctid357904

[Guest]

Is it possible?

New drive isn't mounted to boat yet.

Can you hook up a hose to the inlet on the gimbal housing or intake hose before the circulation pump? 5.7L

Since my boat sat for 2+ years, I'd like to fire it up when weather allows, but have transom work to do and don't want an outdrive in the way.

I don't think I've read about this here before.....

[2850Bounty]

Ted, the only problem with feeding water down stream from a sea water pump (or in your case, circumventing the pump) would be un-wanted water flow per engine RPM. All sea water pumps are RPM driven, meaning that water volume is predicated per what engine RPM dictates!

You will not want more flow than what any given RPM demands.

If you were do this, I'd fire the engine up, then turn on the water supply shortly after it fires up.

The engine will not requre much water force or volume with no load on it.

Basically.... just enough to bring cooling water into the block/heads, and to keep the exhaust wet.

Won't require much.

I'd also turn the water supply off just prior to engine shut down by perhaps 4 seconds or so.

This will run the exhaust dry, lesson the chance of continued water in the exhaust that may find it's way into an open exhaust port....., and you won't hurt a thing by doing this.

Edit:

No.... I would not feed into the Circ pump directly via the larger suction hose. That would by-pass the exhaust portion until temp comes up and the T-stat opens.

I'd use the port in the T-stat housing (blue arrow aiming inwards) where the sea water pump normally supplies water.

[Guest]

Thanks

I need to reinstall the Tstat anyway...I removed it for a final splash of antifreeze at winterization. I can pick up a short piece of hose w/a ball valve, and barbed and threaded fittings for the garden hose.

Oddly never came across this scenario.

[2850Bounty]

Ted, I'd suggest that when you connect this up, that you not make any fixed garden hose connections.

Perhaps have a helper just hold the two together.

And BTW, I don't know why you are firing this up for, but if you simply want to see if she'll fire up, you can easily do a 8-10-15 second dry-start with no water at all.

Long as you're not red-lining RPM and do this at low RPM for a few seconds only... no harm/no foul.

Your rubber exhaust components will just be waking up before they figure out what the hell's going on.

Your drive will be off, so there's no risk of pump or impeller damage.

The engine circ pump ceramic seal can certainly handle a few seconds of no lubrication.

.

[Guest]

If I'm going to start it for the 1st time in 2 and a half years, 15 seconds won't tell me $hit about how the carb is working. Or anything else, for that matter.

[Chief_Alen]

Yes you can shunt together a garden hose and the hose that feeds your t-stat. That's how engines are started on crates " engine stands ".

You can then fiddle with the carb or the dist or whatever you want to.

Post back how you make out.

I have lost count how many engines i started this way.

If you have a heat exchanger before the t-stat then you can feed the garden hose to that.

I always make sure the water is on before starting the engine.

[SomeSailor]

You're not gonna over-run the water as long as you're not getting crazy with the pressure. Like said, crate motors are run like this all the time. Supply just enough pressure that the flow looks about normal from the gimbal and you'll be fine.

[2850Bounty]

SomeSailor wrote:
You're not gonna over-run the water as long as you're not getting crazy with the pressure. Like said, crate motors are run like this all the time. Supply just enough pressure that the flow looks about normal from the gimbal and you'll be fine.

Yes, and that's what I was eluding to in the absense of an impeller pump that would otherwise control water volume as per RPM.