baffled - mystery may be solved!-gctid357870

[Guest]

i used a water temp probe and compared against guage - exactly the same - indicating eng is running hot. i pulled inlet hose which goes thru transom into a water pipe at back of eng, that pipe was partially crushed at tip. that could explain engine running hot but does not explain why it only showed up last season! no work has been done to engine. wth?

[Guest]

if the pipe has been that way since new, then no, it's not the cause

replace your impeller - get the full kit with housing and be aware of the GEN II pumps propensity to suck exhaust if not sealed properly

here's the bulletin on that:

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Bullet/95/95_13.pdf

When my SEI drive was exhibiting that issue from new, I bought a Sierra w/p kit, coated the bottom side of the base gasket, and the top surface of the top gasket with permatex copper. Then I lightly coated the bolt threads. torqued evenly to spec., then plastered a layer of sealant around the mating surface and over the bolt heads.

I have always had success with Permatex copper. I find it sets up nicer than other sealants. Once cured, it seems "tough", not slimy.

That cured my high rpm overheat.

[Chief_Alen]

Could be that something got sucked up and blocked that bent inlet. And if i were asked " Should you replace it " i would have to say yes.

Remove the long hose that comes in from the transom at the t-stat housing or a heat exchanger end and with a garden hose back flush the drive. See what comes out.

I am not saying the drive water pump was installed correctly but before you open the drive again i would back flush it.

I use aviation form a gasket, been using it for over 45 years.

[2850Bounty]

Chief Alen wrote:
Remove the long hose that comes in from the transom at the t-stat housing or a heat exchanger end and with a garden hose back flush the drive. See what comes out.

Agree! If you have power assist steering, there will be an oil cooler in this line that can catch debris and become restricted.