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Wanting to redo my Bayliner 2452 Dashboard and switches-gctid470064

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    #16
    kjs wrote:
    another option are the Carling Contura II switches with the legend already on the rocker. They are available wit 2 LEDs and one could be used permanently on so you find the switch and the second one to indicate that it's on. They are really good to actuate and you can get installation frames which hook together so you only need one large cut-out.

    Example:

    I was looking at those but they are way wider than I have room for. My switches now are 1/2 wide and 1 1/2 long
    Boatless at this time

    A veteran is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including their life."

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      #17
      TimeOut 2452 wrote:
      This panel is longer to allow me to move my VHF up a little, it is always hidden by the opened cabin door.
      I like the Carling or Contura switches myself also. They can be had for $5-$10 (depends on the type).

      Shoot me an email if you're interested. I have the stock OEM layouts for all the 2542's but don't charge anything additional to move things around or re-label things.

      [email protected]

      That panel would be http://"http://aplusmobilegraphics.c...240 + shipping.

      http://"http://aplusmobilegraphics.c....jpg[/IMG]
      Custom CNC Design And Dash Panels

      iBoatNW

      1980 CHB Europa 42 Trawler- "Honey Badger"

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        #18
        yes, they are wider but can be "stacked". As you have your panel already it naturally would be a PIA to make it work.

        The cheapest actuators for these Carling I found at (don't beat me!) SeaRay parts:

        http://www.searay-parts.com/category-s/964.htm

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          #19
          kjs wrote:
          .. it naturally would be a PIA to make it work.
          Not necessarily. I can put the switches any which way you want. I don't charge anything additional for layout changes, so let your imagination be your guide. You might also be able to increase the size of the panel overall.

          It's pretty straightforward in most cases. Find the switches you like and match the hole size & layout to those. Most are industry standard sizes nowadays anyhow.
          Custom CNC Design And Dash Panels

          iBoatNW

          1980 CHB Europa 42 Trawler- "Honey Badger"

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            #20
            So does anybody know how I can wire up the anchor light that specs an STDP switch using just an STSP switch? I'm guessing it's tied in with the Navigation lights as the anchor light uses the aft portion of that folding light on top of the hardtop as well as the forward light.

            Help, this is only thing holding me back from making the order for switches. I can't afford the space or the cost of the carlings, but found some 20a rated waterproof switches that I like but they only come in STSP!

            SomeSailor, thanks so much, I'll keep it in mind if I find myself in over my head!!

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              #21
              if it's the anchor light only you can use a SPST but if you want Nav and Anchor on one switch as it is common in a lot of boats you need a DPDT to make one side anchor only and the other one Nav+anchor (unless you install a diode on a SPDT with center off). You actually need a DPDT switch with center off (ON-OFF-ON, two poles)....

              SomeSailor wrote:
              Not necessarily. I can put the switches any which way you want. I don't charge anything additional for layout changes, so let your imagination be your guide. You might also be able to increase the size of the panel overall.

              It's pretty straightforward in most cases. Find the switches you like and match the hole size & layout to those. Most are industry standard sizes nowadays anyhow.
              I ment Alakanmutt with that comment as he already has the panels and changing the layout would be a lot of extra work....

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                #22
                kjs wrote:
                you need a DPDT to make one side anchor only and the other one Nav+anchor (unless you install a diode on a SPDT with center off).
                That is correct. No diode is going to help though. You just need a DPDT vice a SPDT.

                How much more can that switch cost?
                Custom CNC Design And Dash Panels

                iBoatNW

                1980 CHB Europa 42 Trawler- "Honey Badger"

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                  #23
                  SomeSailor wrote:
                  That is correct. No diode is going to help though. You just need a DPDT vice a SPDT.

                  How much more can that switch cost?
                  you can make a solution with a SPDT switch and a diode if you don't mind the voltage drop (not a problem with LED lights). Anode to the pole where the anchor light is connected, cathode to the Nav light pin and supply to the center.

                  Personally I wouldn't do it as the price difference for the switch is marginal and the diode leads have to be protected from corrosion.

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                    #24
                    The problem is two fold:

                    1. I want the switches to all match and the one I like for it's looks, quality and price only comes in STSP.

                    2. The way bayliner has it wired now there is a switch for the nav lights (STSP ON-OFF). And a switch forthe anchor light (specs say it's an STDP ON-ON).

                    Can I splice off the section of the wires for the stern light and the wires from the anchor light together onto an STSP ON-OFF?

                    It will be a week or so before I can get up to the boat to take photos of the wiring to know how they did it for sure.

                    Thanks for everyone's advice!

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