Survey Checklist...-gctid354879

[Guest]

Does anyone have one or know of a link that I could get a checklist for surveying a used boat?

I'm in the process of making one but want to make sure I don't leave out anything.

[boatworkfl]

Gilligan wrote:
Does anyone have one or know of a link that I could get a checklist for surveying a used boat?

I'm in the process of making one but want to make sure I don't leave out anything.

Check your messages, I gave you a copy of my survey.

[Guest]

boatworkfl wrote:
Check your messages, I gave you a copy of my survey.

Sweet... but I don't see it. Did you PM it?

[boatworkfl]

Gilligan wrote:
Sweet... but I don't see it. Did you PM it?

I will try it again, sometimes I do not hit the right button on PM's.

[Guest]

Well what have you got so far? Post it here and we'll run it through the Brainiac 3000. Also what size and model boat? Engines, etc.

[boatworkfl]

boatworkfl wrote:
I will try it again, sometimes I do not hit the right button on PM's.

Did it show up?

[Guest]

telebob wrote:
Well what have you got so far? Post it here and we'll run it through the Brainiac 3000. Also what size and model boat? Engines, etc.

good idea. let me get it together

[Guest]

boatworkfl wrote:
Did it show up?

no

[Guest]

telebob wrote:
Well what have you got so far? Post it here and we'll run it through the Brainiac 3000. Also what size and model boat? Engines, etc.

Ok, I'm looking at a 1985 Command Bridge with a single big block (volvo), that is about 7 years old. The boat looks very clean and the owner has a lot of paperwork on it. Here's what I've come up with so far:

Hull ext:

Tap hull / check blistering

Inspect all through hulls verify material

Inspect rub rail

Inspect windows and frames including portholes

Inspect base rail and rail fittings

Inspect swim platform and brackets

Additional notes:

Outdrive:

Visual inspection, check play left to right

Verify clamp style on bellows

Check oil: level and quality

Verify prop can pull off

verify drive ratio

Verify indexing (L and R)

Verify tilt works

Additional notes:

Electrical:

Check all helm switches and lighting

Check fridge cycle / verify 12v and 110 work and cycle on and off

Verify stove electric / alcohol

Flush toilet (electric)

Nav lights

Interior lights / type

Pull shore power and test battery charge

Test charger verify type

Inspect all connections (type, shrinktubed, etc)

Inspect fuse panel and condition

Are fuses marked

Check fresh water pump

Check bilge pumps floats and man. switches

Additional notes:

General inspection:

All storage dry

Any signs of water

Any sign of mold/mildew

Verify double bunk length (lay down)

Inspect engine compartment

Inspect through hulls and verify double clamps

Inspect all compartments (under steps, etc.)

Any signs of standing water

Pull all galley draws for full inspection

Check all hardware for condition and screws (hinges, etc.)

Inspect all cushions

Interior windows and frames

Condition of canvas

Additional notes:

Engine:

Verify carb 2 or 4bbl or fuel injected

Check oil before starting

Check a couple of plugs

Verify distributor, check points if necessary

Check flame arrestor

Verify water separator filter

Verify double clamps on water line stuff

Pull thermostat check corrosion

Additional notes:

After start up:

Check base timing

Check TAT timing

Verify idle RPM

Verify various temps while running

Verify various temps 5 min after shut down

Verify shifting and steering from both helms

Compression test

So there ya go...

[Guest]

Mike, here is a link to a surveyor near me. The sample surveys can be used as a check list. Good luck!

[Guest]

I would toss in a moisture meter check on the transom and stringers.

Thumping the hull takes an experienced ear to know the difference between a void, changes in thickness, hidden damage, and bulkheads/boxing.

[Guest]

PugetMike wrote:
I would toss in a moisture meter check on the transom and stringers.

Thumping the hull takes an experienced ear to know the difference between a void, changes in thickness, hidden damage, and bulkheads/boxing.

All transoms of boats that spend any prolonged amount of time in water will have moisture in them because resin, epoxy, and gelcoat are osmotic mediums. Some types are more osmotic than others; but if a boat has been left in the water for months or years, the presence of moisture is inevitable. But the presence of moisture does not necessarily equate to the presence of rotten wood. Core samples are much better indicators of rot than readings from a moisture meter.

[Guest]

That sample helps, thanks.

As to the hull tapping, I agree, and may be the only reason I hire a surveyor even though I'd love to save the money. I don't know much about the moisture meter of tapping. The jury is out on that one.

[2850Bounty]

telebob wrote:
1.... Post it here and we'll run it through the Brainiac 3000.

2.... Also what size and model boat? Engines, etc.

1... That must be a new feature with this new V-Bulletin version.

2.... See Mike's post #9.

Mike, couple of comments:

From the photos, I'm guessing TBI.

This may be EST ignition.

If so, the timing procedure will be different from what you have been familiar with.

If tapping for sounding the core material, tap from the inside and directly onto the interior of the transom.

I believe that a moisture meter probes must reach into the core material in order to get a reading.

Take a good look at all six transom shield mounting bolt nuts/washers. See if any are sinking into the core material.

Put a wrench on the two center and two lower ones and give them a tweak... see if they are loose and how loose.

If any are loose, do not tighten them so that this can be shown to the owner.

Definitely pull props, ring anode, and expose the gear ratio numbers.

The BBC requires the 1.78:1 ratio.

Wiggle the sea water crankshaft pump housing... look for bearing play.

Good point re; checking both helm controls. The U-flex controls can be problematic.

Don't be overly concerned if you find several fixable issues. As you know, you can make any of these corrections yourself.

Ain't no boat out there that will not require some degree of attention in some area.

From what you've shared with me, this one sounds like a good boat.

Lastly.... if she fits your needs, don't shoot yourself in the foot over a few hundred dollars.

This is a rather rare one to have the BB and Duo Prop in it.

.

[boatworkfl]

Gilligan wrote:
no

May be too large for a PM, PM me your email and I will attach it to you. This is the same format I use on most of my surveys, I do add and remove items as necessary.

Pat S.