I continue to experience such bad service out of the tilt/trim cyliners on my Mercruisers. I had an Alpha drive on the last boat which I used for 5 year, I had to have the cyliners "rebuilt" twice in that time. At the back or the cylinder where the piston goes into the cylinder is a seal tha has a stainless steel retainer, on mine the seals expand to the point of bursting that ss ring and by then the seal has so badly swollen that the piston will not slide in it and I have not tilt or trim function. The last time I had them done the shop told me if I was suspicious if they were binding up to disconnect the cyliner from the drive at the rear and see if the piston will rotate inside the cylinder, if they will not rotate freely the seals are swollen. Now I have a BIII drive on this boat which I have had for 1 year, although the boat it 6 year old, I went down a couple of weeks ago and the drive started to tilt then stopped, the tilt pump runs but no movement. I did as he said and removed the cylinders and with all my might I can not turn the piston inside the cylinder, then upon closer inspection, after removing the zinc, I see the same thing I have seen on my old Alpha, the seals have swollen to the point they burst the ss ring. WHAT THE H#!!, is this an annual maintenance item? I am tired of paying a couple hundred bucks to have them rebuilt ever time they bind up. So, I just ordered NEW ones from SEI, price is less than what I pay to have the old rebuilt, and have a 1 year warranty. I hope they are better than the oem. I will find out. If not at least I can do this every year and have new cylinders. Anyone else?
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trode wrote:
I continue to experience such bad service out of the tilt/trim cyliners on my Mercruisers. I had an Alpha drive on the last boat which I used for 5 year, I had to have the cyliners "rebuilt" twice in that time. At the back or the cylinder where the piston goes into the cylinder is a seal tha has a stainless steel retainer, on mine the seals expand to the point of bursting that ss ring and by then the seal has so badly swollen that the piston will not slide in it and I have not tilt or trim function. The last time I had them done the shop told me if I was suspicious if they were binding up to disconnect the cyliner from the drive at the rear and see if the piston will rotate inside the cylinder, if they will not rotate freely the seals are swollen. Now I have a BIII drive on this boat which I have had for 1 year, although the boat it 6 year old, I went down a couple of weeks ago and the drive started to tilt then stopped, the tilt pump runs but no movement. I did as he said and removed the cylinders and with all my might I can not turn the piston inside the cylinder, then upon closer inspection, after removing the zinc, I see the same thing I have seen on my old Alpha, the seals have swollen to the point they burst the ss ring. WHAT THE H#!!, is this an annual maintenance item? I am tired of paying a couple hundred bucks to have them rebuilt ever time they bind up. So, I just ordered NEW ones from SEI, price is less than what I pay to have the old rebuilt, and have a 1 year warranty. I hope they are better than the oem. I will find out. If not at least I can do this every year and have new cylinders. Anyone else?
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I too am in saltwater and lift kept, I rinse the drive after each use and for that reason find this additionally frustrating. Don't know why they deteriorate so quickly, seem to be especially true after orginal seals are replaced.
I too will let you all know about the sei replacements. Nice folks over the phone, we'll see how they go.
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Guest
Thanks for the info, i have had some intermittent problems and was about to buy a new pump etc,
i will check mine this weekend, how easily should they rotate, i've read the manual with regard to the rebuild is it a diy task i.e. no special tools required.?
I see the rebuild kits are quite expensive!!!
Regards
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"Alone with tilt cylinder problems"
Was this the marine spin-off to "Sleepless in Seattle"?
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Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.
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spike2450 wrote:
Thanks for the info, i have had some intermittent problems and was about to buy a new pump etc,
i will check mine this weekend, how easily should they rotate, i've read the manual with regard to the rebuild is it a diy task i.e. no special tools required.?
Sleepless in North Carolina!!!!
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They look good, will try to get installed this weekend, weather permitting. Will keep advised. Wish they would have taped box ends, one was slightly open allowing the end of the ram to get dinged up, will touch up to avoid corrosion.
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A few friends with Merc boats did have leaks with their trim cylinders, but they had older boats. My old 88 Cobra is still on the originals, but since they are not made anymore, I picked up a nice used set over the summer and added them to my Cobra spare parts pile....
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II
Long Island Sound Region
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I dont think this is a common or inherent problem. Ive had Mercruisers since 1972,all saltwater kept 24/7, and have yet to have a single trim cyl prob. No idea why youre having this problem though. Is there excessive corrosion in your marina?
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telstar1 wrote:
No idea why youre having this problem though. Is there excessive corrosion in your marina?
Heading to boat today to put on new cylinders will keep you all posted on the outcome.
Thanks for the interest
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I got over 12 years out of my originals. My boating has been only salt water for the last 10 years, although I trailer, so the boat doesn't sit in the water when not in use. The shop said they could rebuild them but the cost wasn't much less than having them install new ones, so I went for new an hope to get 12 years out them, again.
1998 Capri 1950CL
3 Liter MerCruiser
Furuno 1622 Radar, Garmin echoMAP44dv, Garmin 300 AIS receiver, Uniden Cl 2 VHF with Hailer,
2 batteries with Combiner, Joystick Wakeboard Tower
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When my 2452 was two years old I had a frozen trim cylinder. Insurance did not want to pay said they said all problems are all from corrosion. Boat is trailered and kept like new, insurance company finally paid when seen there condition. My 289 was only 3 months old when one cyl froze solid and it was replaced under the warranty. Both boats are trailered, cylinders lubed every use and a trailering clip always used to. It will probably not be long before I need to rebuild both. My drive has kicked up in reverse several times and I took the trim motor assy apart and cleaned and blew out all the valves. Reservoir was full of black junk which I can assume came from the trim cylinders. So far everything is working but the drive will sometimes slowly bleed down over a few days I guess from more junk in the check valves. I bleed as much out of the trim cylinders when I cleaned the reservoir but some junk still remained so I keep changing out the fluid every few months.
Rock
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Misery loves company! I got to the boat yesterday and of course nothing goes as planned, the hoses were so corroded in the cylider I had to virtually destroy them to get them out, took home applied heat, liquid wrench, elbow grease, etc.... no way coming out intact. Had to cut lines and use socket to get out, new ones on way today. The plan was to install the new SEI's and keep the oem's for rebuild later. The new SEI's fit just fine, look great but are not hooked up. That will come later this week when new hoses arrive. I am going to post picture of the cylinder I took off that is frozen up solid, with both hoses diconnected I can't budge the piston with all my weight on it, tried to move it with a bar clamp too and no go, when those seals swell up they allow no movement at all of the piston in the cylinder. Sorry to hear of your problems but gald to know it is not just me. I think a redesign of the seals is in order.
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