Carb rebuild kit-gctid341590

[Guest]

Hi

I have a 1998 2452 with a 5 litre V8, i'm looking for a carb rebuild kit and there is a few listed (mercarb,rochester etc), can someone let me know the type of carb i have or kit required.

Many thanks.

[BLCarl]

There are several different carb on that engine. First identify if it's 2 or 4 barrel, by looking down the carb from the top with the flame arrestor off. Some have a ID tag on one of the screws attaching the top of the carb. othes have the ID stamped on the air inlet near the choke . Holley, Rochester, Carter, Webber all make replacement carbs for the engine. Check out rebuild web sites to find a photo of one like yours. Some of the manufacturers make them for Mercrusier so their name isn't cast into the body but they will be the same inside. Within the groups one kit will fit many different models but the Carter kit won't fit the Holly etc. The best way to get the correct kit is by using the ID# off the carb. If you can figure out the make of the carb you have a chance of getting the correct kit with out the number .

Good luck

[Guest]

I don't know if you can find any numbers on it anywhere, that's the easiest. Then just look up a rebuild kit with that number.

[Guest]

Mercruiser started with Rochester then had a period where they made their own copies of the Rochester, calling them the mercarb. There should be a tag on the carb. The two barrel carbs are not that hard to rebuild. The 4 barrel carbs are a challenge. I usually buy a carb rebuilt by a professional.

[Guest]

snap a few pictures with your phone and stop by a decent auto supply shop. Not a fast food version, but one that has some experienced techs. Most places can tell with a glance which carb you have. Your's may be for marine use, but any good parts guy will still recognize the brand. Whether they can get the proper kit is a different story, but at least its a start.

Keep in mind that there is a bit of art to re-building a carb if you haven't done it before. There are some itty bitty pieces and passages that you have to pay attention to and in most cases, you'll need a good brand of carb solvent to soak things in for a while. Clean it all after you're done with brake clean to get the carb solvent mung off the pieces. Messing around with carbs is BY FAR, the best example of "fix it til its broke" that I have ever seen. Of course I come from the world of motorcycles where everyone with a leather vest thinks they're a mechanic.ops

[Guest]

there are some numbers stamped on the carb body. just cross refrence the numbers at autozone or advanced auto.. it is the exact same kit but 1/2-1/3 the cost of a boat store..

[BLCarl]

Most kits I've used have several similar pieces so one is probably is correct. It's easier than making a seperate kit for all the variations. After cleaning the carb carefully compare the parts you choose to the origional. Some gaskets may have a missing passage or extra hole that could cause a problem. Even then it may be close enough if the passage is already blocked or needs to be. Installing it upside or backwards will cause problems.

Take your time keep everythng clean blow out the passages with air it should work out. The float level is a little touchy and may require readjustment if it floods or starves no big problem because you already know what it looks like inside. JUST DON'T DROP ANYTHING DOWN THE ENGINE. I use masking tape over the manifold till the last moment.

You didn't say if it is a 2 BBL. Probably Rochester

[Guest]

Hi

Thanks for all the help, yes it's a 2bbl. As soon as i get to the boat i will snap a photo and look for any serial nos etc.

Regards

[BLCarl]

Most Holleys have the fuel bowl screwed onto the front of the carb. The four screws go in horizontally from the front. On Carter/Edelbrock and Rochester / relabled the bowel is integrtal with the body and the cover is attached by screws from the top. There is a MOTOCRAFT+relabled on early engines mostly Volvo that's very simple and obsolete and you might consider replacing if there are any problems.

Hopfully your dealing with a 2bbl Rochester.Simple common easy to get parts. Holleys are good to work on too.

I got some kits from http://www.summitracing.com/ they were good to work with .

[Chief_Alen]

if you see it's a Rochester 2cg napa has the kit so does ebay and many websites.

Give this a look:

Get yourself down to a auto parts store, get a can of berrymans carb soak comes with a screen in the can, like a deep fryer.

Also get a can of compressed carb cleaner.And a carb rebuild kit.

With a clean area on a table or bench i place a old cookie sheet with sides.

Break down the carb and remove all the rubber.

Remove the jets they should just screw out.

Everything goes into the berrymans, let soak for a few hours.

While it's soaking turn your attention to the motor.

Remove the fuel pump from the motor, the screen clean, all hoses good no cracks.

Re-install the fuel pump, and remove the t-stat, that good, i would replace it.

ok time to drain and refill the lower drive.

Well it should be a couple hours a beer and a little work another beer and a little more work hell might be 5 hours who knows.

Remove the parts from the berrymans, start with the lower carb housing and blow it dry with compressed air, it clean?

Piece by piece build it, make sure every passage is clean blow it dry and use compressed can carb clear blow it dry again.

Jets clean, Float, floating no gas in it ?

Push the float under water and if you see bubbles it's time to replace it.

Ok when you install the pin in the forks that hold the float are they pressing on the float tounge and not allowing the float to move freely ?

So if you did your job correctly the carb should operate freely, and when you install the adjustment screws be gentle.

Do not bend the tips. All the way in with them gently and out 2 turns to start.

Final adjustment on the water.

Copied and pasted here from another site i post to, i am the author.

[2850Bounty]

Spike, use your Mercruiser engine serial number for the carburetor identification.

Then go from there for the gaskets and parts kit.

Here is one carburetor listed a Merc 5.0L engine 0M600000-THRU-0W300009 .



source:

http://marinepowerservice.com/Boatin...pickyear/1998/

This looks to be the same but is lited differently.

5.0L (2 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1998-2001 MERCRUISER 863200



source:

http://marinepowerservice.com/Boatin...pickyear/0.cfm

This one is also shown for a 1998 Merc 5.0L and the 5.0L (2 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1998 CARBURETOR (MERCARB).



sources:

1998 Merc 5.0L engine 0M600000-THRU-0W300009

http://marinepowerservice.com/Boatin...pickyear/1998/

GM 305 V-8 1998 MerCruiser 5.0L (2 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1998 > 0L015751 AND UP > CARBURETOR (MERCARB)

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/me...RETOR+(MERCARB)

*********************

Water and gasoline are each quite different from one another regarding specific gravity.

If you want to check the float buoyancy, or if you want to test for leaks, use the same chemical that it's meant to function in.... Gasoline! Not WATER! rod

.

[Guest]

Hi

Thanks for all the replies, managed to get to the boat and take a photo,



The serial on the side is 861443 7603



Hope someone can help identify the type.

Kind regards

[2850Bounty]

Look at the third image in my previous post. Is that not it?

Remove the carburetor, and take it in with you along with your Engine Serial number.

Merc will want the engine serial number!

[Guest]

Hi

Yep i reckon so, just found a record of my engine serial which is 0L023503.

Your second source on the last image fits with my serial:

GM 305 V-8 1998 MerCruiser 5.0L (2 BBL.) GM 305 V-8 1998 > 0L015751 AND UP > CARBURETOR (MERCARB)

Mercarb 2bbl is what i will go for.

Many thanks.