want to install Lewmar Profish 1000 on our 2452 bayliner. Looking for pros and cons from people that have done this and what to watch for before i install. Also do i have to build a box over the hatch to secure it to the front, as the hatch lid is not strong enough to hold it. Thanks in advance for ideas.
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You do not need the 1000 on your boat. The 1000 requires a 5/16 chain and 1/2" rode. Go smaller but get a free fall as long as you have chain and rode.
John McLellan White Rock BC
"Halifax Jack"
1999 2855 383 stroker BII
MMSI 316004337 -
I have the 700 profish and really like it. Disabled the free fall after installing all chain rode.
Others here have mounted windlass on a 2452. Just keep bumping till they see it.
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Agree on the smaller unit. Spend the extra savings on more chain.
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I have a Simson-lawrence 700 on my bow. Not sure what year 2452 you have and maybe you want to put that infoin your signature. I can but never free fall. I prefer to drop using the windlass as I can control the rate and set of the anchor better. But everyone has their own preferences. My windlass lifted a submarine telephone cable in the Gulf Islands and pulled the bow down without popping the circuit breaker... So it is strong enough to do the job on our 2452's...
Doug ;}
MMSI: 338068776
"Go Aweigh to" Photos < click on red letters... 2001 Bayliner 2452 w/6.2 HO (paid for)
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I used 2 galvanized angle Iron under the hatch door that crosses in both directions one for PRT to STB and one that runs under the anchor roller back under the other cross to rest up against thicker part of the deck.peneles wrote:
Also do i have to build a box over the hatch to secure it to the front, as the hatch lid is not strong enough to hold it. Thanks in advance for ideas.
The Lewmar only has 3 long bolts used to secure the windlass to the deck. Both angle irons are bolted into 2 of those bolts.
Are you thinking of vertical like Doug's or horizontal?
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Here are some of the other threads you can look at. Do a search with 2452 windlass.
Profish 700 Horizontal:
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I had thought putting heavier rode on the bottom anchor would be a better anchor. (bigger is better idea) Good to know it can be secured to the locker lid with some minor support . Thanks Again.onthelake wrote:
Here are some of the other threads you can look at. Do a search with 2452 windlass.
https://"http://www.baylinerownerscl...=2452+windlass
Profish 700 Horizontal:
https://"http://www.baylinerownerscl...=2452+windlass
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You'll find in some of the installs that a steel plate was used. You will need to cut an access hole into the bulkhead to install the windlass either way. The locker door hinges are not strong enough to hold it.
Some also sealed the door, but I didn't in case I ever want in there through the top, versus the access panel form inside boat.
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I have a simpson lawrence 600 windlass with 150 chain and 150 rope. When anchored with fishing, and trying to pull up the anchor, the rope jammed in the gypsy(?). I noticed the fleming (i think thats the name this is all new to me ) which is plastic was torn up. I read in other forums, that the rope portion jamming is common as it doesn't feed into the boat as well as the heavy chain. Does anyone have this problem? Does anyone have a resolution with exception of a second person pulling taught on the rope and feeding it properly in the bow/chain box
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iflyswa, Some of that binding you may be experiencing is from the anchor line being stiff due to water immersion and if salt water, the salt dries on it. If you soak the line in SaltAway and or wash (in a laundry bag) in the washer, your line will be much more flexible and you should not have any more binding issues..
Doug ;}
MMSI: 338068776
"Go Aweigh to" Photos < click on red letters... 2001 Bayliner 2452 w/6.2 HO (paid for)
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700 Lewmar here and I love it. No free spool but never has been a problem. I use a 16lb Bruce and 45ft chain + 300 1/2" dbl braided. This is a very strong windlass. The only problem I've encountered is too much slack from the pulpit roller to the gypsy causing the chain to slap up and down. I installed a chain lock to prevent the anchor from dropping while under way. This lock has a pin in it to which I added brass rollers (cylinders with a s/s bolt through it). When anchored I remove the lock plate and put the pin back in with the rollers with the chain under it; this acts like a tension pulley eliminating the up/down chain slapping. I totally fluked on to this by just running the chain under the pin and it worked fantastic so I added brass cylinder rollers and it is as smooth as silk now retrieving my anchor. My batteries are at the back and I put the windlass switch and (I think 30) amp breaker by my helm seat and the breaker has never disengaged.
Good luck on your selection but I think a 700 series would do you great with at least a 16lb anchor.
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