Adding a Second Shore Power Plug location-gctid353756

[Guest]

Hi,All this talk about SmartPlug has me excited. It was a real PITA to lean over the boat to unscrew two shore power (Y adapter) cords and a "F" connector for cable TV port side.I always back the boat in my slip so started thinking why not add a second shore power location (with SmartPlug of course) at the rear of the boat with "F" connector. (see picture)Ideally I'd like to run this in parallel so if I'm at another marina nose in I could use the existing old port side location INSTEAD (never two locations at the same time). I'd run 10 gauge 3 conducter and connect to the existing shore power connections port side.Would this work? Any pitfalls? Has anyone done this? Does the gauge need to be bigger since it's further away from the main breakers?It would speed things up a lot for me and make it safer! I could avod the port side all together and make them fake ones but if I could get them even better.Please comment.Thanks,Steve

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[Guest]

I would put in an either/or/switch like is used with a genset. I think you would need to do that to make it legal anyway. the no. 10 wire (boatcable) should be fine for 30 amps.

[Guest]

Use high-quality RF cable and high-quality coax F connectors for your TV feed. My preference is quad shield cable and T&B Snap-n-seal connectors. There are other vendors for high-quality connectors, just don't use the junk that is everywhere. A 1/2 switch could be used, but I would instead use wrenches and a connector coupler to pipe the input side to the TV.

[2850Bounty]

You will want to install a rotary selector switch similar to this one, so that ONLY one S/P Inlet fitting becomes the "source" at any given time.

IOW, you DO NOT want two S/P Inlet fittings to have the potential to both be HOT at the same time.

(a child could lift cover and expose himself to live terminals )



Install this up-stream of your S/P -(slash)- GEN rotary switch as to not disturb it's function in the loop.

Then perhaps relabel as to define s/p inlet #1 and s/p inlet #2.

.

[Guest]

Hi Rick,

Where did you find that switch? Don't want to shock little kids...lol

Definitely will used crimp on "F" connectors.

Sounds like my question is answered which is it will work and no major problems.

Thanks,

Steve

[joe440]

Here is a switch.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=17538&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50523&subdeptNum=50549&classNum=50557

[Guest]

I did my 32' Avanti which had 2 power outlets on the port side of the boat. I had to walk the gunnels to plug in the boat in my slip. I added a single plug in the back of the boat as I never ever bow in any place so I got rid of the y cable and only use a single plug 30A connection. I had to add a jumper wire in the panel to power both sides of my 110 panel from one. I didn't add a dummy switch as I have no plans of selling this boat but I can see where you might want that setup for dummies...... LOL

[JimMc]

Abigayle III wrote:
I did my 32' Avanti which had 2 power outlets on the port side of the boat. I had to walk the gunnels to plug in the boat in my slip. I added a single plug in the back of the boat as I never ever bow in any place so I got rid of the y cable and only use a single plug 30A connection. I had to add a jumper wire in the panel to power both sides of my 110 panel from one. I didn't add a dummy switch as I have no plans of selling this boat but I can see where you might want that setup for dummies...... LOL

I am sorry but your lack of concern regarding the risks associated with paralleling the inlets with out a selector is frieghtening. If power is coming into one inlet and the other inlet is connected in parallel without a selector to seperate then the potential for a lethal electrocution at the exposed terminals is a clear and present danger. Knowing the hazard exists and not correcting it is very cavalier and if proven you would likely be liable in the event of a fatal electrocution.

[2850Bounty]

Abigayle III wrote:
I did my 32' Avanti

1.... which had 2 power outlets on the port side of the boat. I had to walk the gunnels to plug in the boat in my slip. I added a single plug in the back of the boat as I never ever bow in any place so I got rid of the y cable and only use a single plug 30A connection. I had to add a jumper wire in the panel to power both sides of my 110 panel from one.

2.... I didn't add a dummy switch as I have no plans of selling this boat but I can see where you might want that setup for dummies...... LOL

1.... I hope you mean S/P "power inlet" fittings!

2....

JimMc wrote:
I am sorry but your lack of concern regarding the risks associated with paralleling the inlets with out a selector is frieghtening. If power is coming into one inlet and the other inlet is connected in parallel without a selector to seperate them the potential for a lethal electrocution at the exposed terminals is a clear and present danger. Knowing the hazard exists and not correcting it is very cavalier and if proven you would likely be liable in the event of a fatal electrocution.

[SIZE]4 wrote:
+ 1 [/SIZE]

Very dangerous, and displays a great lack of concern due to these being "male" prongs that are un-protected against accidental exposure!

[Guest]

Hi,

Thanks for the link to the switch from West Marine that should do the trick.

I'll definitely be isolating them not only because of electrocution to humans but, also if your washing your boat you could make a connection and short your boat out from the water.

Not sure about jumping the panel. I have two shore power connections currently one for the A/C and one for everything else. I'd like to only add just one to the back of the boat but think I will need to add two as the original configuration is? If I jumped the panel it then might conflict with the two port side connections.

If I get to that project this spring I'll put it in the completed projects section.

Thanks,

Steve

[2850Bounty]

Bayliner 3-0-5-5 wrote:


Not sure about jumping the panel. I have two shore power connections currently one for the A/C and one for everything else. I'd like to only add just one to the back of the boat but think I will need to add two as the original configuration is? If I jumped the panel it then might conflict with the two port side connections.

Steve, you will not be jumping the panel(s). You'll be interrupting this up-stream from the two sources for the panel(s). The panel(s) won't even know what's going on unless you tell them!

However, having a split system does pose an issue in that you will need two additional S/P Inlets, and two rotary switches.

Or..... you abandon the original S/P inlets completely.

.

[SomeSailor]

Not sure I'd want one that low on the swimstep. Seems like the increased risk of corrosion wouldn't be worth it. Just inside the cockpit where it'd stay nice and dry maybe?

[Guest]

If I were to add a second shore power inlet, then I would put it on the bow, so it would be easy to hook up, regardless of if I nosed-in or if I backed-in.

[2850Bounty]

Nosed-in or if backed-in, our cockpits are generally the most accessible areas..., yes/no?

[MidnightSun]

I went fully auto and built a twin contactor/relay box to handle the switching automatically. (about $120 to build) Basically the shore power runs to my "usual" side at all times through the relays (N/C) and works like a standard connection would. When I plug the line into the other side the relays get activated and they switch to allow current through that side while disconnecting the other. Went this route because there on no switches to fumble with and since I have a dual inlet It would have required 2 of them. Have had this about 5 years with never a hiccup.