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    De-winterizing-gctid353674

    Hi guys,

    I'm a relatively new boater and I own a 1995 Bayliner Ciera 2355 with a 5.0LX MerCruiser with an Alpha one drive. I had the boat winterized by a professional marine mechanic last November and was thinking about de-winterizing it myself this spring. I know its a bit early to post this but I was wondering what does the de-winterizinf process involve? Can anyone please explain what has to be done in order to get the engine ready for launch. I'd appreciate any tips and tricks any of you seasoned boaters might have. Thanks in advance.

    #2
    Just realized I should have been more specific. I meant the things I will have to do to the engine and outdrive only. I think I have a handle on other things that need to be done such as bottom paint, haul wax, draining tanks, etc. Thanks.

    Comment


      #3
      It is commissioning. Don't forget to clean the bumpers.

      Comment


        #4
        Make sure all hoses on the engine are reconnected if any were disconnected, plug in batteries, install plugs if any were not put in (mine are left out all winter). That is usually about it, at least for me.

        I also have to de-winterize fresh water, grey water, a/c, etc. Those for the most part just include flushing and cleaning and all set. Summerizing is the ez part, winterizing is when the pita starts

        Comment


          #5
          Quite frankly, you'd need to verify what your mechanic specifically did, so you know exactly what to do in the spring. With regards to winterizing, what "needs" to be done to do it, and how it "should" be done, are very subjective concepts. Different mechanics will do different things. There are OEM procedures, but people can and do vary from OEM. Non OEM repair books can be known to use different procedures from OEM. They engine may have been filled with car antifreeze (e.g. toxic), non-toxic antifreeze, or may not have been left filled with anything at all (e.g. the "air doesn't freeze" concept as we call it here). Hose clamps might be tight or loose (but should be rechecked for tightness anyway regardless what the mechanic says), hoses may have been left on or off, etc... Who knows. There are plenty of other examples too, and this doesn't even include things like batteries, potable water system or water heater, etc.... So, my suggestion would first be do find out what your mechanic did to begin with and go from there.

          Comment


            #6
            Greese stuff.

            Here's a webpage that can help you get started with some easy to do things....

            Good write-ups with pics on how to do regular maintenance jobs for Bravo drives.

            http://www.boatingwithtr.com/Members/BravoService.aspx
            2003 Bayliner 305 - SOLD!
            Twin 5.7L, Carb'd, 445 hours
            Bravo II drives
            Closed-cooling

            Comment


              #7
              Three hoses to reconnect on the 5l lx

              1) raw water entry hose just above the shaft exit by the gimbal. Careful because the entry fitting could be plastic "DO NOT BREAK OFF"

              2) left manifold- just underneath it

              3) right manifold-just underneath it.

              These are all the hose connections I take off and bend down towards the bilge to drain them before freezing. Never ever had a problem. I would follow the above hoses to make sure your mechanic did not disconnect them anywhere else.

              I also like to hand turn my alternator before fire up as sometimes they are a little stiff from sitting and need a little extra persuasion with a wrench. This can stop you from hearing wierd noises and burning a belt. Don't ask me how I know.

              Have batteries fully charged, coolant level in closed system topped, nothing left in bilge to get caught on moving parts.

              Water on! Crank her up and hold at lowest and smoothest running rpm until she warms up a bit and then let her get to temp while watching for any leaks and your TEMPERATURE stays satisfactory.

              Comment


                #8
                wow, I really appreciate the quick and informative tips fellas. I've noted everything down and will check them one by one when I go down to check on her this weekend. A question I have however is, don't I need to drain the antifreeze from the engine itself. I wish I had been there to see what was done in person but here is what the mechanic's bill says:

                Winterize Boat

                - Drained Water Heater + Fresh water tank + lines

                - Blew out all lines w/air

                - Reconnected water heater

                - Flushed toilet system + added holding system treatment

                - Fogged engines

                - Drained engine block (both sides)

                - Drained manifolds

                - Added -50 BanFrost 2000 Engine Flush + filled block and manifolds

                - Reconnected Hoses

                - Added Fuel Conditioner

                - Pulled batteries

                General inspection of the vessel

                Tested bilge pumps and lights

                *** DO NOT START TILL SPRING ***

                Any other suggestions based on the things that were done? Thanks again.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Optimus wrote:
                  Quite frankly, you'd need to verify what your mechanic specifically did, so you know exactly what to do in the spring.
                  + 1 This is where you begin!

                  Regarding your "commissioning" or "re-commissioning"!

                  Cyrus wrote:
                  ** A question I have however is, don't I need to drain the antifreeze from the engine itself................

                  but here is what the mechanic's bill says:
                  • 1 wrote:
                  • Drained Water Heater + Fresh water tank + lines
                  • Blew out all lines w/air
                  • Reconnected water heater
                  • Flushed toilet system + added holding system treatment
                  • Fogged engines
                  • Drained engine block (both sides)
                  • Drained manifolds
                  • Added -50 BanFrost 2000 Engine Flush + filled block and manifolds
                  • Reconnected Hoses
                  • Added Fuel Conditioner
                  • Pulled batteries


                  Any other suggestions based on the things that were done?
                  **First off, you say; [COLOR]#0000ff wrote:
                  "don't I need to drain the antifreeze from the engine itself"[/COLOR] of which implies that your engine is equipped with Closed Cooling.

                  This contradicts the mechanic's work scope in that there would be no need to drain the engine coolant.... only the raw water side of the system.

                  .
                  • 1 wrote:
                  • For a full boat winterization, this is protocol.
                  • I'm not a fan of using compressed air alone to clear O/B Potable water system lines. Do this at your own risk, IMO. Or, follow this by using a potable water system antifreeze, and running your pump until you see the pink antifreeze at each fixture. WH's can be by-passed for this.
                  • Best to leave the drain plug removed, tag it, place it in a baggie with the rest of the parts.

                    Now.... he may mean the engine coolant lines, of which again, there is no need to be draining engine coolant if Closed System Cooled.

                    The only time we do this would be when changing the coolant.
                  • A-OK.
                  • Should be last on the list for Carbureted Engines ONLY. If your '95 5.0 LX MerCruiser V8 is carbureted.... you're good to go!

                    FYI: we DO NOT fog TBI or any FI engines in the typical fashion. This is a different procedure entirely.
                  • Again... this would be for a RWC engine... not for a CCS engine.
                  • If RWC, yes!
                  • Again, RWC engine and exhaust only.
                  • If RWC, we want to drain any -50 BanFrost 2000 Engine Flush and NOT Reconnect Hoses
                  • This is done prior to any of the other work.
                  • No need to if your O/B Charger is a smart charger and it can be powered during the lay up.

                    If not..... then removing the cables on a good fully charged battery will do just fine.




                  There is no mention of installing a new sea water pump impeller. This is good!

                  We don't want to install new impellers just prior to lay up.

                  We want new impellers at the beginning of the season.

                  No mention of new spark plugs... your call on that!
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I use a kiddie pool under the drive and an elctric pump to my ear flushers to winterize. I use 4 gallons of concentrate( non deluted) automotive anti freeze. after i have warmed up the motor to operating temp on fresh water 175 F , i connect the ears to the electric pump submerged in the anti freeze within the kiddie pool. I then restart and let run until the anti freeze returns through exhaughst for about 30 seconds. I then fog till she chokes and shut her down. I do not drain the antifreeze. IS THIS A CORRECT WAY TO WINTERIZE??? This is the way i have winterized for 3 seasons wth out problem , but should i be draining the motor again? my apologies for detering the thread.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Scraping B wrote:
                      I use a kiddie pool under the drive and an elctric pump to my ear flushers to winterize. I use 4 gallons of concentrate( non deluted) automotive anti freeze. after i have warmed up the motor to operating temp on fresh water 175 F , i connect the ears to the electric pump submerged in the anti freeze within the kiddie pool. I then restart and let run until the anti freeze returns through exhaughst for about 30 seconds. I then fog till she chokes and shut her down. I do not drain the antifreeze. 1.... [SIZE]4 wrote:
                      IS THIS A CORRECT WAY TO WINTERIZE???[/SIZE]
                      This is the way i have winterized for 3 seasons wth out problem , 2..... but should i be draining the motor again? my apologies for detering the thread.
                      1..... Short answer, and IMO.... NO!

                      2.... IMO.... Yes!

                      No apologies needed, but this is Cyrus' thread is about re-commissioning.... not winterizing.

                      .
                      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Got it and thank you Rick, Seacrest out..

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Scraping B, take a quick read here.
                          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                          Comment


                            #14
                            thanks again Rick, I have a seriously anxious feeling about my methods thus far. Live and Learn ,hopefully without paying for a stupid mistake.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Scraping B wrote:
                              thanks again Rick, I have a seriously anxious feeling about my methods thus far. Live and Learn ,hopefully without paying for a stupid mistake.
                              Don't worry yourself yet. If it's been working for you before, you're probably OK.

                              It's the dilution of the incoming antifreeze mixture, and then that mixture being left in the engine block that is typically the issue.
                              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                              Comment

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