OK the motors are out-gctid353090

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1982 Conquest

OK I have the motors out and they are rust buckets...

I am going to use the newer style vortec blocks and heads. Already found cores for 200 each and new flywheels for 125.00

So here is my ?. I have been told to replace the exhaust manifolds and I was planing to but is it really necessary? Do they wear out?

[706jim Seasoned Member Find all posts View Profile Close 706jim]

Exhaust manifolds will rust quickly if FWC in salt water.

[2850Bounty Supporting Member Find all posts View Profile Close 2850Bounty]

Hey, I thought that you'd skipped out on us!

ssanderson69 wrote:
1982 Conquest

OK I have the motors out and they are rust buckets...

I am going to use the newer style vortec blocks and heads. Already found cores for 200 each and new flywheels for 125.00

So here is my ?. I have been told to replace the exhaust manifolds and I was planing to but is it really necessary? Do they wear out?

706jim wrote:
Exhaust manifolds will rust quickly if FWC in salt water.

I'm guessing that Jim means RWC in salt water, and I'd agree.

Scott, if a manifold was bad and was leaking internally, that water could ruin one of your fresh engines. It's not worth the risk, IMO.

You could pressure test and magnaflux them I suppose. The M/F won't reveal any internal cracking.

Back to your Vortec for a minute.

No need to spend $125 on a flywheel. These do not require a good friction surface.... only a good ring gear, and you do want the ring gear to be perfect!

Check with Vern or Randy at ERS in Troutdale for a pair of post '87 153 tooth flywheels. (ERS = Engine Rebuilders Supply)

As to the Vortec.... good choice, but again, I'd encourage you to read these articles on the Quench or Squish chamber design... especially for a pair of engines destine for a 32 foot boat.

At least read up on this... then make your piston selection decision.

http://"http://www.chevyhiperformanc...ine very well.

http://"http://www.pbase.com/stealth...t interesting.

http://"http://www.marineengine.com/...quench/squish.

http://"http://www.enginebuildermag....about pistons.

http://"http://www.beckracing.com/pa...w/ KB Pistons.

http://"http://www.moparmusclemagazi... Mopar Muscle.

Attached files http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

[yachtman Guru Find all posts View Profile Close yachtman]

Exhaust manifolds are semi expendables. Expect them to need to be replaces around every 3-5 years. New engines really need new manifolds don't scrimp on that. It would be a real bummer to suck water into those new engines.

[itsabowtime2 Moderator Emeritus Find all posts View Profile Close itsabowtime2]

Manifolds:

If the engines were run in salt water and do not have a closed (antifreeze) cooling system best to replace them.

If the engines were run in fresh water then inspect them and there is a good possibility they are OK.

It looks like you are going to be running in salt water, if so consider investing in a closed cooling system

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itsabowtime2 wrote:
Manifolds:

• 1 wrote:
• If the engines were run in salt water and do not have a closed (antifreeze) cooling system best to replace them.
• It looks like you are going to be running in salt water, if so consider investing in a closed cooling system

• 1 wrote:
• None of the AQ series V-8 exhaust manifolds lend themselves to a Full System. I wish that they did!
• Agreed! What a waist to NOT do this for fresh engines that will be run in salt water.

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Thanks Guys, I will go with new manifolds and risers as I have on Idea how old these are.

Rick I will let you know what parts and pieces I get as I decide. And before I order them.

So much for the 7K budget. As I get in to this I am going to do it right. Having both drives resealed and tested. Hopefully there aren't any hard parts needed.

The engines where removed with the top box removed from the drives and the bell housing left on engines.

David has given me some good ideas on cams and parts.

I need to get in there and clean the engine bay any good cleaners that work well on the old dirt and grime?

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ssanderson69 wrote:

• 1 wrote:
• Having both drives resealed and tested. Hopefully there aren't any hard parts needed.
• The engines where removed with the top box removed from the drives and the bell housing left on engines.
• David has given me some good ideas on cams and parts.
• I need to get in there and clean the engine bay any good cleaners that work well on the old dirt and grime?

• 1 wrote:
• Scott, just an FYI.... I work on the AQ series Volvo Pentas. If these are the original drives, I'd suggest that while this shop is at it, that they press the main drive gear from the BB and look at the two bearings.
  
  It is easy to do since they will be right in there replacing seals/O-rings anyway.
  
  I'm a stone's throw from Corbet, Oregon, so if you have any questions regarding their procedure or price, holler (BOC email feature... not PM please).
• That's an OK way to do it. Note that you'll need two new rubber cushion rings.
  
  I'd be glad to source the PDS bearings/seals for you.
• He's a good man!
• Castrol's purple colored "Super Clean" degreaser.
  
  It's an Enzyme Cleaner/Degreaser....., so wear gloves or it will suck the oil out of your skin.
  
  Water soluable, so clean up afterwards is with warm soapy water. Great stuff!
  
  

The notes in the first image were for another member.

He too will be replacing the rubber cushions since he removed the Flywheel Cover from the shield.

Second image is an all steel BB and main "drive" gear showing the two tapered roller bearings.

These take a big load behind the V-8's. If the least bit questionable, replace them and re-set the BB rolling torqe values and gear contact clearances.

Failure here can take out the entire gear set.

Attached files http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img] http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....JPG[/img]

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Good replies, except I would *require* the closed cooling systems, not just consider them...in our area.

New manifolds are also a must.

With twins you're at ~$1800 per motor for the cooling and manifolds, so along with the drive work that $7k budget is going to be gone quick, but it would be a waste of money to scrimp on any of these items and have corrosion, water ingestion, or some other problem take out your new engines.

For Rick(2850 bounty), there is no way to go full system on the AQ V-8's?

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rkcarguy wrote:
For Rick(2850 bounty), there is no way to go full system on the AQ V-8's?

Correct! Has to do with small porting on the OEM manifolds and no ports in the risers.

I believe that there is a manifold (the HGE OEM??) that would do a full system if the riser would allow for it.

[yachtman Guru Find all posts View Profile Close yachtman]

Since Scott is buying new manifolds isn't there a manifold that will bolt up and allow for a closed system even though they aren't the exact replacements ?

Seems like as long as the exhaust could ne worked out it would work. They may not be volvo however. As long as he can find the same angle diameter and height of risers.?

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It is a closed system already.

[yachtman Guru Find all posts View Profile Close yachtman]

Just thinking of some thing else scottif the engines are rust buckets the be sure to check the oil pans don't reuse them if they are rusty unless you want to be pulling the engines out in a few years because of rust perforation.

Yeah I know but it is a boat. Lol

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yachtman wrote:
1.... Since Scott is buying new manifolds isn't there a manifold that will bolt up and allow for a closed system even though they aren't the exact replacements ?

2.... Seems like as long as the exhaust could ne worked out it would work. They may not be volvo however. As long as he can find the same angle diameter and height of risers.?

1... Yes, but only a halft system. The manifold inlet/outlet ports are too small for Full System cooling.

Plust, no one makes a block off plate for between the manifold and riser, and the OEM (or even the After-Market) riser is not ported for direct spent sea water.

Even if we were to raise the riser up for a ported spacer (of which does not exist) and were to block-off underneath it......, the rubber exhaust couplers will not align with the Y-pipe.

2.... The angle of the riser is unique in the way that it aligns to the Y-pipe. The rubber coupler ID is also a Metric 95mm.

If using the OEM thru the drive exhaust, no other combination would align without extensive re-work and modification.

It could be done... just a hassle.



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