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Oil pump in a Mercruiser 3.0.

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    #16
    No sealant on the head gaskets. Felpro has a great reputation for aftermarket gaskets.
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX" '93 2556
    Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
    The Rebuild Of My 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    My Misc. Projects
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    Comment


      #17
      ..............
      Originally posted by Boat boy View Post
      .................. The one I used had practically none and was very clean inside. i could spin it with my fingers it was nice and smooth. I don't have anything to measure side movement but I sure couldn't feel any. Inside the plate I could see a faint whispy ware mark but couldn't feel it with my finger. I lapped.it a little cleaned it all and bolted it on.
      As long as the pressure relief valve is working and is allowing for the proper engine oil pressure, you should be just fine.

      Now I have bought 2 one piece oil. Pan gaskets and both were wrong. Dose anyone make a one piece after market oil pan gasket?
      I thank you in advance for any advice or knowledge
      There was a 2pc rear main crankshaft seal 3.0L engine, and a later 1pc rear main crankshaft seal 3.0L engine.
      If memory serves me, that and the year model will determine the pan gasket style.



      I have another question I have a cheap somewhat vague manual that says not to use any permatex with the head gasket . I read on the World wide web and some say yes do use it. Well which is it??
      Today's steel/composite clad head gaskets do not require a sealant.
      Sealant may over-lubricate a head gasket while the gasket is being squished between the cylinder block and cylinder head.

      Also, unless this engine is fitted with a Closed Cooling System, you will want to use the Marine version head gasket.
      (if river, lake or ocean water cooled, the automotive gasket will eventually fail)

      Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.

      Comment


        #18
        Yes I have a a good marine head gasket and I am going with no sealant.

        The manual says use thread sealant on the head bolts. What's that about??

        I looked up the oil pan gasket on a site that has drawings. My engine has a 2 piece rear crank seal. The drawing for my motor shows both a one piece Sierra and a 4 piece (unavailable) oil pan gasket. Side by side on the same engine. I hope it's the right one.

        Thanks for all the help. I am hoping to have this little engine together Wednesday.

        Comment


          #19
          The one piece gasket is likely the improved aftermarket gasket for your oil pan. The thread sealant helps ensure a water tight seal for head bolts that protrude into the cylinder blocks cooling jacket, its fairly common.
          Dave
          Edmonds, WA
          "THE FIX" '93 2556
          Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
          The Rebuild Of My 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
          My Misc. Projects
          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

          Comment


            #20
            .................
            Originally posted by Boat boy View Post
            Yes I have a a good marine head gasket and I am going with no sealant.
            No offense..... while I am ok with the use of the better of the 3 used oil pumps, you do know that the head gasket must be NEW............, correct?

            Also, there will be a cylinder head bolt torque sequence to follow.

            The manual says use thread sealant on the head bolts. What's that about??
            As Dave said, some of the threaded holes enter the cooling jackets.
            The sealant is required in these areas, and it also provides some lubrication for the threads.


            Make dang sure that the cylinder head mating surface is true and flat!


            I looked up the oil pan gasket on a site that has drawings. My engine has a 2 piece rear crank seal. The drawing for my motor shows both a one piece Sierra and a 4 piece (unavailable) oil pan gasket. Side by side on the same engine. I hope it's the right one.
            You will know if it's correct the moment that you lay it in place.



            Also, soon after the cylinder head is in place (bolts have been tightened and the push rods have been installed), you will be adjusting your cam follower plunger depth.
            Some refer to this as adjusting valves.
            That is incorrect!
            There is NO valve adjustment once the cylinder head work has been completed.

            The procedure:


            (the 3.0L firing order is 1-3-4-2)

            You will bring # 1 cylinder to TDC on the C/S. ( C/S = compression stroke )
            At this indexing, both # 1 cylinder intake/exhaust valves will be closed.

            You will then adjust both rocker arm stud nuts as to give you ZERO valve-stem-to-rocker-arm lash.

            Next, you will adjust each stud nut (as per 1/2 turn, 3/4 turn or full turn) as to set the push-rods into the cam follower plunger as per OEM specs.
            (see your OEM service or work shop manual for this specification)

            You will do this for both the # 1 cylinder intake and exhaust rocker arms.
            This sets the preload for the cam follower's hydraulically operated plunger.
            That is the goal, and is the ONLY goal!


            Next, you will turn the crankshaft over 180 degrees until # 3 cylinder is at TDC on the C/S.

            Repeat the same as per # 1.

            Next, turn the crankshaft over another 180 degrees until # 4 cylinder is at TDC on the C/S.

            Repeat the same as per # 1.

            Next, turn the crankshaft over another 180 degrees until # 2 cylinder is at TDC on the C/S.

            Repeat the same as per # 1.


            Now rotate 180 degrees again, and you will be back at # 1 cylinder TDC compression stroke.
            Now rotate crankshaft in the opposite direction by approx 8 degrees.
            This places the # 1 cylinder piston at approx 8* BTDC.


            Now you can drop the distributor in making sure that it engages with the oil pump drive, and that the rotor is aiming correctly as per the cap and plug cables.


            Once the engine has been installed and the engine harness has been reconnected, you can power up the ignition system.
            With the ignition ON, you will rotate the distributor (opposite it's rotor direction) as to create one spark event!
            When the single spark event occurs, stop and then tighten the hold-down clamp bolt.
            In other words, it will be set very close to BASE advance.



            With the cap and plug cables arranged correctly, now the engine will be timed closely enough for the initial start-up.



            Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.

            Comment


            • Boat boy
              Boat boy commented
              Editing a comment
              Well thats just plain ole good intel. Thanks 2850Bounty And thanks to all of you. I am so glad I found this forum. I had joined others and got bad ju ju. I had the machine shop take a minimum cut across the head and block so we should be flat. The info about lash and timing is good stuff , I built an engine for my Camero a few years back and had quite the time at this particular step. Its my day off and I should have most remaining parts by tomorrow so I may as well get started.

              Where can I get this thread sealant off the shelf/ in a store? There is a west marine but its a bit of a drive. Can I get this stuff at an auto parts store? what is it called?

            #21
            Bad news gentlemen. To keep the push rods, rockers and plunger in order I bored holes in a block of wood and stored them in a dry place . Apparently there is moisture in that wood. My push rods are rusted. what do I do?

            Comment


              #22
              Wire brush them!
              Any small amount of rust (that could possibly be there) will find its way back into the oil pan….. and it will be filtered before it goes through the engine again.
              Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.

              Comment


                #23
                Really? I can get the rust off. I was worried that they were no good. Ok so where can I get this thread sealant?

                Comment


                  #24
                  Yes it is a brand new head gasket. Thank you sir.

                  No offence taken.

                  Comment


                    #25
                    Head bolt thread sealant can be found at the auto parts supply shop or online. Permatex brand # 80632 or ARP thread sealer # 100-9904 are good imo.
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX" '93 2556
                    Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
                    The Rebuild Of My 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    My Misc. Projects
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                      #26
                      A machine shop decked the block and milled the head ?
                      If so, were the cylinders mic'ed and at a minimum honed ?
                      Rods inspected and re-sized as needed ?
                      Cam bearings ?
                      etc....etc...

                      Sounds like you're headed more toward a full rebuild.
                      " WET EVER "
                      1989 2459 TROPHY OFFSHORE 5.8L COBRA / SX
                      mmsi 338108404
                      mmsi 338124956
                      "I started with nothing and still have most of it left"

                      Comment


                        #27
                        Post a detailed pic of these rusted pushrods, I’d like to see how rusted they became sitting in that block of wood.
                        🧐
                        Dave
                        Edmonds, WA
                        "THE FIX" '93 2556
                        Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
                        The Rebuild Of My 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                        My Misc. Projects
                        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                        Comment


                          #28
                          Originally posted by Boat boy
                          I had the machine shop take a minimum cut across the head and block so we should be flat.
                          Taking some material from the cylinder head should not be an issue. Your rocker arms will compensate for the lower position.

                          Taking a cut from the cylinder block may affect your piston deck height.
                          Once a piston/rod has been installed, bring it up to TDC and take a piston deck height reading.
                          Let this reading influence your head gasket thickness selection.
                          Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
                          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                          Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.

                          Comment


                            #29
                            Yeah.....ok ...soooooo ...

                            dktool The cylinders are .030 over. I reused the cam. Honing done at the shop etc...

                            builderdude . I'm sorry but I can't take a photo of the push rods.

                            2850Bounty. I can't measure the deck height either... If you would be so kind as to go back about , oh I don't know ...maybe yesterday and read your post to me out loud. Please?

                            Comment


                              #30
                              Ok so perhaps I'm am too new to , how did you put it bounty, "get the panties in a wad"?? For what it's worth I was just hacking on ya.

                              Can I put the oil pan on or do I need to install the dip tube first???

                              Comment

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