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Missing raw water impeller vanes

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    Missing raw water impeller vanes

    Of course my raw water impeller failed on my first trip out with friends this year. Hino WO4CT (150HP). When I opened the pump there were only 4 1/2 of the 8 vanes left in the pump! Picture below.

    I have back flushed all the hoses all the way to the manicooler and transmission cooler. I’ve looked in the manicooler inlet with a borescope and can’t see any debris.

    My only conclusion is that the missing pieces got ground up enough to get into the manicooler tubes.

    Any thoughts/suggestions?

    Next step is to try to “snake” the manicooler tubes as best I can
    . Click image for larger version

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    #2
    Pretty common. As you have already indicated, you need to go looking for the missing bits because its highly unlikely they made it through to the water exhaust.
    R.J.(Bob) Evans
    Buchanan, SK
    Cierra 2755
    Previously 43 Defever, Response LX
    Various runabouts, canoes & kayaks

    Comment


      #3
      When impeller pieces flow to the Hino manicooler it looks something like this...

      Click image for larger version

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      Northport NY

      Comment


      • Mad Manc
        Mad Manc commented
        Editing a comment
        That’s what I’d have expected but mine appears pretty clean - from my borescope view. Pulling the end caps today hopefully

      #4
      Have you looked in the aftercooler?
      When flushing use a much volume as possible and 'pulse' it on and off for periods of time.
      Have you tried a good vacuum while flushing from the other end?
      Northport NY

      Comment


      • Mad Manc
        Mad Manc commented
        Editing a comment
        My raw water goes from the strainer, through the tranny cooler then to the raw water pump and from there to the manicooler (not like the manual shows it). I have tried pulsing, sucking etc…

      #5
      Can you not just pull the inlet hose off of the tranny cooler to check for impeller piecees? Do the same for intercooler and manicooler. Not hard to pop the hose off.

      James
      1989 Bayliner 3888, 175 Hinos,
      Hurth 630's Onan 8kw MDKD
      Lowrance Electronics!
      Boating on Georgian Bay & the North Channel
      Completed the Great Loop 07/25/19
      AGLCA #8340
      MTOA# 7469

      Comment


      • Mad Manc
        Mad Manc commented
        Editing a comment
        Pulled off every hose in the system all the way to the manicooler!

      #6
      Those little chunks can be a pain to get out and it will take patience. I have a chunk of speedometer cable for just this job. It’s flexible but it doesn’t compress and has just enough abrasive quantities to clean up buildup in the tubes. Smitty477’s pictures in post number three are right on and there’s the concern of upsetting the isolation of the bundle, especially with both end caps off. I made a dummy, open end cap out of ipe, aka ironwood, that bolts up and compresses the oring but is wide open in the center to provide access to the tubes.
      Click image for larger version

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ID:	644637 Plywood would work just fine. I will admit to a small cheat in making it, I have a spare complete manicooler gathering dust at home to work with. May it gather dust for many years.
      Good luck.
      P/C Pete
      Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
      1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
      Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
      MMSI 367770440

      Comment


      • Mad Manc
        Mad Manc commented
        Editing a comment
        Pete, any chance you have the dimensions for the dummy end cap?

      #7
      If you look at post #3 above in the top right picture of the cap you can see the back of the round pipe plug mounted in the middle of the intake caps on the newer Hino manicoolers.
      With those you can carefully remove the round pipe plug in the middle without disturbing any of the 4 bolts holding the cap and do some inspection and cleaning in there.
      With all that said there is never a better way to really thoroughly clean a manicooler except for taking it off.
      Northport NY

      Comment


      • Mad Manc
        Mad Manc commented
        Editing a comment
        Think I have the older style so I’m pulling the end covers off and cleaning that way.

      #8
      A piece of brass rod from the hardware store that just fits
      and is longer worked for me when tube was out. Speedometer cable would work better especially if in place

      Comment


        #9
        All good advice!
        suggestion:
        After you have retrieved all of the fragments and are ready to install your new impeller, coat it with glycerin from a pharmacy.
        DO NOT use any petroleum products!

        Make sure that the impeller veins are folded in the correct direction of rotation!
        Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

        Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.

        Comment


        • Mad Manc
          Mad Manc commented
          Editing a comment
          I bought the “kit” with Jabsco impeller lube. Hopefully, that’s OK. I have other spares and will keep glycerin in mind if I use them.

        #10
        Well I’ve opened up, vacuumed and back flushed every hose from the seawater strainers to the manicooler, opened the mani cooler and “snaked”, back flushed and forward flushed every cooling tube and no signs of the missing impeller pieces! At this point I’m going to reassemble everything and start her up - monitoring temps very closely. Wish me luck!

        Comment


          #11
          Only the best of luck!
          P/C Pete
          Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
          1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
          Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
          MMSI 367770440

          Comment


            #12
            Before you get too far ahead of yourself, find the source of the original issue that caused the impeller to come apart.
            Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.

            Comment


              #13
              Well, apparently I got lucky. Went out today, ran for about an hour including about 5 minutes at WOT. Temps stable and in limits on both engines. Only surprising thing was that I hit an indicated 18 knots at WOT which is the fastest I’ve ever seen in this boat!

              Comment


                #14
                Great!
                P/C Pete
                Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
                Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                MMSI 367770440

                Comment

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