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Bayliner 3218 Water in Oil - Gas 305

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    #16
    New manifold and elbow, one side.
    Attached Files

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      #17
      Not being familiar with anything other than Mercruiser exhaust components and although I don’t think it’s necessary, it may be best to remove the paint from the mating surfaces to promote the best seal. A call to the manufacturer to confirm, If it’s a baked on type coating it may be good to go as is.
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX" '93 2556
      Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
      The Rebuild Of My 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      My Misc. Projects
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


      • Gsherwood
        Gsherwood commented
        Editing a comment
        I was told by a expert mechanic not to clean off the paint or they will immediately rust. Not sure if it’s correct seems like the gasket sealant would protect the surfaces.

      #18
      From what I’ve read there is mixed feedback on whether or not to remove manufacturer applied paint from mating surfaces. Maybe I’ll just smooth the paint with emory cloth. Probably should try to contact the manufacturer about it as Dave suggested.

      Pretty sure that gasket sealant only goes on the manifold-elbow joint, and not the manifold head joint.

      I guess I won’t try painting since they came painted. In case I need to return them I won’t do anything to them until I get the old ones off and assess the situation.

      I should have also ordered head gaskets in case they need to come off, because I don’t even know the source of the water in the oil. Banking on it being the exhaust right now. Should know in a few days.

      Thanks for sticking with me on this! I have a mix of confidence and doubt about this project.

      Will probably start new threads once I get started in a few days. A thread on removing the oil to share my experience and techniques with others who may be searching for that. I got a Mityvac extractor. Will try to warm the engine room/oil with a heater before I extract. Was wondering if there’s an electric dipstick I could get to help with this.

      Then I’ll do a new thread on other topics: removing & installing exhaust, prepping to start engines and starting them. Need to figure out how to get water to the raw water intake, with a fake-a-lake maybe?

      Comment


        #19
        Oh…does anyone know if I need a special oil filter? Will need a few of them as I’ll need to cycle new oil through a few times to get the water out. Do you add the Seafoam into a full oil pan then run the engine a bit before extracting and adding fresh oil?

        Comment


          #20
          First thing I’d do is a leak down test. You’ll bring each cylinder to tdc on the compression stroke and pressurize. This will tell you whether or not the pressure is being lost into the cooling system or elsewhere. Some minor loss elsewhere would be expected on a well used engine.
          If pressure is lost into the cooling system you have a bigger issue than just a potential exhaust failure , could be a head gasket or a cracked head or block etc. If pressure is not lost into the cooling system then is a safe bet the water entered through failing exhaust components. You may find evidence of that when you remove them.
          Purchase inexpensive oil and filters for flushing. Once your convinced the water intrusion is resolved then use your goto oil and filter. Heating the engine bay would be nice but probably isn’t necessary, use caution with basic heaters in the engine bay of a gasoline powered boat, don’t want to hear about you on the news.
          Head gaskets are typically easy to find for sbc.

          btw: Id say keep posting your related engine issues and your findings on this thread.
          Dave
          Edmonds, WA
          "THE FIX" '93 2556
          Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
          The Rebuild Of My 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
          My Misc. Projects
          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

          Comment


            #21
            On the leak down test, I’ll need some type of compressor. Not sure if I’ll have access to electricity/power. Might have to get a generator. Wondering if a bicycle pump could somehow work. The gauge on my road bike pump goes up to 160 psi.

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              #22
              Originally posted by Buddy Bill View Post
              On the leak down test, I’ll need some type of compressor. Not sure if I’ll have access to electricity/power. Might have to get a generator. Wondering if a bicycle pump could somehow work. The gauge on my road bike pump goes up to 160 psi.
              You’ll need a continual source of air flow at a fairly high psi of around 120 ish.
              Is there no power at the yard? A geny would work.
              Dave
              Edmonds, WA
              "THE FIX" '93 2556
              Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
              The Rebuild Of My 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
              My Misc. Projects
              https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

              Comment


                #23
                Pull the old exhaust first, you can do the leak down with it removed. That’ll free up some working space too👍🏼
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX" '93 2556
                Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
                The Rebuild Of My 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                My Misc. Projects
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment


                  #24
                  More working space sounds good! Not to mention I’m excited about pulling the old exhaust, to see what the insides look like, and to find out if that’s the source of the water in the oil. THAT would be huge if that’s the case. I have the parts to fix, ready to install. Just a little wrenching and I’d be GTG!

                  There are electric pancake compressors pretty cheap if I can get power at the marina yard.

                  Comment


                    #25
                    You can get an air tank that you fill with a compressor at home me then you can take it to 5he boat to perform the test.
                    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                    Mike

                    Comment


                      #26
                      Maybe rent or purchase an air compressor. The refillable air tank will not provide adequate air volume to perform a leak down test.
                      Leak down basics:
                      https://youtu.be/hGv70RyiGGc
                      Dave
                      Edmonds, WA
                      "THE FIX" '93 2556
                      Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II
                      The Rebuild Of My 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                      My Misc. Projects
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                      Comment


                        #27
                        Got to the boat this morning. Found a 3 foot piece of 2x6 and dug a path in the snow to the stern. Power pole behind boat was live…good news that!

                        Bought a propane forced air heater. Opened the engine hatch and fire up the heater. Wanted to warm up the engine room before trying to extract the watery oil.

                        While that was working I tried to get shore power using an adapter to plug into the 110 power. I never got an orientation to the boat and know zip about powering up the electrical. I got no power.

                        Does anyone know how to turn things on/get power to the a/c electrical system? There’s a panel by the helm. I flipped switches to “on”. Is there another panel/switch somewhere?

                        Maybe the 30 amp cable is bad, or the adapter. I’ll try the other 30 amp cable tomorrow.

                        Getting the shore power working will be a big win as far as working in the cold and the dark. I don’t know how the boat heater works, but if it’s electric and will run on the 20 amp shore power that would be nice. Having lights and stereo would be great too.

                        So I gave up on the electric power and tried extracting the oil. The mityvac was working but the oil/water is so cold and slow I only got a tiny bit out. I think the water in the oil is freezing in the bottom of the mityvac and blocking up the tube.

                        Evidently the heater didn’t have much impact on the cold soaked engine. It still had frost on it even after blowing the heater for over an hour.

                        So tomorrow I’ll focus on draining the coolant and starting to disassemble the exhaust. There’s a part between the manifold and the riser/elbow that I didn’t get replacements for. It’s about 6 inches, squarish, and a hose goes into it from the heat exchanger. I need to figure out what it is and try to find them. I’ll put up a photo. If anyone knows about this part I’d be grateful for info.

                        It’s going down to single digit temps this weekend so don’t know if it’s a good idea to drain the coolant and open up the exhaust. Any cause for worry there? Thanks!


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                          #28

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                            #29
                            In that picture the manifold is on the left and the riser in the right. The hose at upper left attaches to the part between the manifold and riser. What is that part?

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                              #30
                              Here’s a shot of the electric panel with switches “on”.. Why no power on boat?
                              Attached Files

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                              • ronbo404
                                ronbo404 commented
                                Editing a comment
                                Regarding you electric panel, while the main is on the the receptacle breaker is "off"

                              • Gsherwood
                                Gsherwood commented
                                Editing a comment
                                Your input selector is missing so there’s no electrical connection to the boat. Hopefully there are no live wires behind the panel.
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