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    Battery Terminals

    Came across these online the other day. I figured that they would be helpful to those that remove their batteries for storage. Would help wrong connections in the future. Thoughts?
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    #2
    Personally I’d prefer a single cable to the battery post and a crimp type lug with heat shrink red for positive, black or yellow for negative.
    If multiple cable connection is required I’d do it at a dedicated bus bar. JMO

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    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556
    Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

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      #3
      Simply put......... NO!
      That device would appear to be for automotive use.

      Positive and Negative battery cables ONLY to batteries.

      A negative bus bar would be ok.

      If you need a Positive source for accessories, the MBSS common would be a good power source for an accessory breaker panel.


      Take a quick look at this thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...ng-help-needed


      .
      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
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        #4
        Originally posted by 2850Bounty View Post
        Simply put......... NO!

        Positive and Negative battery cables ONLY to batteries.

        A negative bus bar would be ok.

        If you need a Positive source for accessories, the MBSS common would be a good power source for an accessory breaker panel.


        .
        Agreed, bus bar for all the cables normally going to the battery and only 1 to the battery is the way to go. Something like this works well. https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content....php?measure=m
        Cheers, Hans
        2007 Carver 41 CMY
        Twin Volvo D6-370
        Montreal, Canada
        Midnight Sun I Photos

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          #5
          This problem (hooking up battery wrong) could be easily solved by battery companies by simply painting on a big red + next to the positive battery post. Whenever I buy a new battery I take a piece of duct tape and stick it next to the positive post and put a big + sign on it. Just make it obvious. And what’s with this new trend of making negative cables yellow? More confusion. No need to change a system in place for nearly 100 years.
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            #6
            My only challenge with those terminals is trying to meet the fusing requirement for non starting circuits.

            In situations where you have old fashioned battery terminals I have used a stud type and then used a Blue Seas terminal mounted fuse.

            Yes I would prefer a single point connection leading to a buss bar but that can be a challenging retrofit depending on how folks boat is wired.
            That said, there is nothing wrong with multiple connections at the battery as long as they are fused, and Blue Seas makes a handy device to do just that.

            https://www.bluesea.com/products/215...k_-_30_to_300A

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              #7
              so what's wrong with looking at the raised + and - marks the manufactures already have on the battery case?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Outl36 View Post
                so what's wrong with looking at the raised + and - marks the manufactures already have on the battery case?
                I tend to agree, unfortunately many have incorrectly connected the cables when swapping out a battery. Most likely due to the threaded lugs being used and of the same size and battery cables not color correct or being labeled.
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556
                Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                  I tend to agree, unfortunately many have incorrectly connected the cables when swapping out a battery. Most likely due to the threaded lugs being used and of the same size and battery cables not color correct or being labeled.
                  I do not understand how someone can put the wrong cable on the wrong side. This is rather important and is clearly identified and if not visible, you look for the description until you find it and do not under any circumstances connect cables if you are not 100% sure. If you have trouble with this you should not be fiddling with battery cables IMHO.
                  Cheers, Hans
                  2007 Carver 41 CMY
                  Twin Volvo D6-370
                  Montreal, Canada
                  Midnight Sun I Photos

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yep, just pointing out it does happen. I’ve read of at least 3 on this forum. Typically a newbie with a “boat won’t start after replacing my battery” thread. Come to find out they've reversed the cables and blew the block fuse at the starter or popped the engine breaker.
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556
                    Carbureted 383 Vortec-Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P

                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If all Positive battery cables are clearly marked with heavy wall RED shrink tubing, Negative cables clearly displaying black (or Yellow by today’s standards), and if we connect Battery Cables ONLY to our battery banks, mistakes are greatly reduced or eliminated during battery R&R.

                      This also eliminates small terminal corrosion and the “dreaded” Battery Rat’s Nest that we have all seen at one time or another!


                      .
                      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                      Comment

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