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torque specs for the AQ125 engine.

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    torque specs for the AQ125 engine.

    Good day to all.Reay to go back together with engines, AQ125b. Does anyone out there have a complete spec sheet for the torque numbers for a AQ125b Engine, head bolts, rods, main bearing, ect.
    Thxs'Catbaby.


    #2
    This is from Claymer's Volvo Shop Manual.

    Comment


      #3
      Use caution when referring to the Clymers or Seloc manuals. They are known to have errors in some of the specifications.
      Last edited by 2850Bounty; 10-16-2020, 03:53 AM.
      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Comment


        #4
        What I did was I bought a Volvo Aq125 B manual...hope it was right! Now working on outdrives...what is the best process for painting these. I have them sanded smooth but not stripped to the metal.
        It would be a lot of work to strip to the metal but if its best i will do it. So primer and finish coat? What primer is best and what finish coat is best.

        Thanks Catbaby

        Comment


          #5
          ...............
          Originally posted by catbaby View Post
          What I did was I bought a Volvo Aq125 B manual...hope it was right!
          If it's the OEM Volvo Penta (and not Clymers or Seloc), you'll be OK.

          Now working on outdrives...what is the best process for painting these. I have them sanded smooth but not stripped to the metal.
          That is good.
          You'll want to leave as much of the OEM finish as possible. (it doesn't get any better than what the factory did!)


          It would be a lot of work to strip to the metal but if its best i will do it.
          See above!

          So primer and finish coat? What primer is best and what finish coat is best.
          A thin coating of Zinc Chromate for any bare aluminum areas ONLY.

          I've have good results in the past using a custom color mixed two-part industrial epoxy.

          Make sure that you bring the aluminum up to above "dew point" temperature before applying.

          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            sounds good! I love the thoughts of an epoxy finish! Questions would it be wrong to prime over the painted surfaces?? Just asking.

            Catbaby.

            Comment


              #7
              A light coating of Zinc Chromate would be for any bare aluminum only!

              I have not used any of the epoxy with a primer on the original finish.
              The key to a good application is bringing the aluminum up to above “dewpoint“ temperature.
              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #8
                thanks again I am stuck trying to the get the the steering casing nut out has 2 hex head bolts, the two holes one on the right one on the left how in the world do you get this out!!
                Catbaby

                Comment


                  #9
                  I do not know what you are referring to. Perhaps post a few pictures.
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ok here you go.
                    catbaby
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i sent a picture YES!!! what a thrill
                      Catbaby

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by catbaby View Post
                        ok here you go.
                        catbaby




                        That is your double bolt helmet pin. (above, they are calling it a steering pin)

                        The two smaller holes at 9:00 O'clock and 3:00 O'clock are threaded jack bolt holes.
                        Spray some WD40 or _____ into the holes and blast them out with compressed air.
                        Make sure that the threads are nice and clean!
                        Lube the holes with grease.


                        NOTE: some of these are Metric 6mm, and some are US 1/4" NC.
                        Most that I've worked with are 1/4" NC
                        Use bolts with plenty of thread length.


                        Run the correct grade # 8 bolt into each hole.......(use grade #8)
                        Begin to tighten them equally and keep going. .
                        The two bolts will jack the pin out of the bore.


                        NOTE:
                        The two 3/8" NC cap screws that secure the helmet pin must not exceed the depth of the female threads.
                        If they do exceed the depth, they will break the ends of the threaded bores, and will allow water to enter the universal shaft area.

                        I've seen this all too often where a DIYr used the wrong length cap screws, and broke the aluminum open.

                        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Just wanted you to know that i got it out!
                          I never could get the bolts to tighten in. So I took a 5/16 die threaded as much as I could, tighten a 5/16 bolt in and put the slide hammer too it!! Popped right out.
                          After I got it out it look like I never did get cleaned to the threads. There some kind of filler in the hold. I am soaking it in MM oil for few days...that should free it up.
                          Now it feels like the universal joint is seized on the drive shaft. Looking at my drawings is looks like I have disconnected everything.
                          it should slide right off....right?
                          Catbaby

                          Comment


                            #14
                            ...................
                            Originally posted by catbaby View Post
                            Just wanted you to know that i got it out!
                            I never could get the bolts to tighten in. So I took a 5/16 die threaded as much as I could, tighten a 5/16 bolt in and put the slide hammer too it!! Popped right out.
                            These double bolt helmet pin cap screws are 3/8" NC, and the jack screw threads are 1/4".
                            Where are you seeing 5/16"?


                            After I got it out it look like I never did get cleaned to the threads.
                            There some kind of filler in the hold.
                            Inside of the threaded holes of the aluminum clamping collar?????
                            If so, I would look at the underside of that area and check to see if the aluminum has been broken out by a cap screw of the wrong length.



                            Now it feels like the universal joint is seized on the drive shaft.
                            Are you suggesting that the universal drive shaft's female yoke may be stuck onto the PDS?

                            Looking at my drawings is looks like I have disconnected everything.
                            it should slide right off....right?
                            Yes, the universal drive shaft's female yoke should slide AFT and out.
                            If it does not, then you have rust/corrosion that is preventing it from sliding off of the PDS splines.

                            If this is the case, post back. I have a few suggestions that may help.

                            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                            Comment


                              #15
                              the jack screw holes had been filled with something I could not reach the threads. After it was out I cleaned it from the back side and found the threads to b 1/4 20. But because of the filler I could not reach the threads with a screw or bolt. WD 40 would not melt the filler..... The same jack screw hole is where I threaded in my 5/16 screw threads...the 3/8 double bolt helmet pin cap screws are untouched....there is no damage done.
                              As i thought the rust and corrosion is keeping the universal joint from sliding off...soaked down with Kano Labs Silikroil this good stuff.
                              looking forward to hearing from you.

                              Catbaby

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