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2007 175BR Engine Alarm sounds when accesories are switched on

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    2007 175BR Engine Alarm sounds when accesories are switched on

    Hi there,

    Just picked up this boat. 2007 175BR 3.0L Merc

    My alarm is sounding when I switch on my accesories. Bilge, Stereo, Blower, Horn. The accessories do not function I just get this soothing beeping alarm until I flip the accessory switch off again. Along with the alarm my trim gauge, temp gauge and one other gauge goes full max. . The Gauges return to normal when I turn the accessory switches off again as the alarm also goes away.

    I have seen other folks having this same issue, unfortunately there are no details regarding the repair.

    Thank you !

    #2
    Welcome to BOC.

    Sorry you are having a problem.

    Is it if any single accessory switch is turn on?

    Does the tone change when more or less are activated?

    Is there any custom equipment installed?

    Has any work been done on the boat lately?

    Have you stuck your head up under the dash to inspect the wiring for anything loose or dangling?

    Have you tried to loosen and tighten each connection under the dash?

    Are there any blown fuses?

    Answering these questions may help others give you some advice.
    Present Boat- 2018 VR5 4.5/200hp Mercruiser
    Last Boat- 1998 Capri 1950CL 3.0 Mercruiser

    Comment


      #3
      Thank you for the response !

      The boat has been sitting in covered storage for several years. The wiring underneath the helm, the fuse block and fuses all look clean and tidy.

      I haven't noticed if the alarm tone changes with more than one accessory turned on at the same time, that is something that I can try. Although I don't really feel that will help to locate the issue since all of the accessories are tied to the same problem.

      This alarm should be active with the ignition in the RUN position. Once the engine is running the alarm should be silent until 1 of 3 things completes the circuit.

      Spent some time studying the bayliner wiring diagram for the boat and I will poke around with my multi meter today and see what I can find.

      Comment


        #4
        To add to my last post. The alarm is Not active when the ignition is in the RUN position as it should be.

        Comment


          #5
          Alarm buzzer gets +V from the ignition switch and -V from the sensors. Sensor outputs are wired together so that any one of them bringing its signal output to -V will cause the alarm to sound. From your description of "soothing" alarm sound I believe a resistive short (possibly due to oxidation or dirt) has formed from the Accessory switch to -V. I would remove the switch and clean its contacts.

          Good luck
          Retired, computer expert / executive
          Bayliner 285 Cruiser / Mercruiser QSD 4.2L 320 HP Diesel
          Live in the Bay Area, CA, USA, boat in Turkey
          D-Marin @ Turgutreis in Bodrum/Turkey
          [email protected]
          [email protected]

          Comment


            #6
            as already stated, the red wire of the alarm buzzer ALWAYS has 12v positive going to it ANYTIME the keyswitch is on, but not at any other time..... this is normal.

            the black wire from the buzzer makes a direct run to the sensors WITHOUT any taps into it for other devices, (the sensors are simple on-off switches) and depending on what function the sensor is monitoring is what determines if the sensor is a normal open or normal closed switch.....

            then, as soon the system senses something outside of its normal operating range, the sensor automatically switches to ground activating the buzzer that is connected to the other end of the sensor wire....

            as things return to normal, the sensor automatically resets to its normal position, and the buzzer goes quiet...

            so all this means that your accessories must be wired into the wrong circuit, OR someone has tied the sensor into the wrong circuit.... and the buzzer could even be connected in backwards....

            what you need to do is make sure the single wire that ties ALL the safety sensor switches together has NOTHING else connected to it except the sensors...... and that the red wire to the buzzer is ONLY hot with the key in the run position, but NOT in the acc position..... then the safety sensor system will work as it should, providing the buzzer and the sensors are all good..

            as for the wires from the accessories that is interfering with the safety buzzer circuit, you will need to determine what someone did to tie it in to the buzzer system...... a wire tracer is a good thing to have if one owns a boat with electronics on it... especially if the boat has had stuff and wires added by a previous owner.


            NU LIBERTE'
            Salem, OR

            1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
            5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
            N2K equipped throughout..
            2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
            2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
            '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
            Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

            Comment


              #7
              Everything as stated above...in addition, those sensors or warning buzzers cost about $5.00/each. They are cheap and easy to replace. For some reason, they don’t seem to last long either...at least for me. I have several in my boating “inventory” room just in case. Although wiring may look “tidy and clean” you really need to remove each connection and clean both the wire end and the receiving end from any corrosion that may or may not be visibly evident. I cannot tell you how many times it “looked and felt” good, but after a wire brush cleaning, made all the difference.
              Lake Hartwell, GA
              2012 BR 185 - 3.0 TKS
              1999 Chaparral 233 Sunesta Ltd., 5.0 Volvo
              1987 SeaRay 300 - Twin 454’s
              1993 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR
              1993 Yamaha Waverunner III
              1995 Yamaha Waverunner III GP
              1995 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR PRO
              1996 SeaDoo GTX
              1999 SeaDoo GTX

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by RobMick View Post
                Everything as stated above...in addition, those sensors or warning buzzers cost about $5.00/each. They are cheap and easy to replace. For some reason, they don’t seem to last long either...at least for me. I have several in my boating “inventory” room just in case. Although wiring may look “tidy and clean” you really need to remove each connection and clean both the wire end and the receiving end from any corrosion that may or may not be visibly evident. I cannot tell you how many times it “looked and felt” good, but after a wire brush cleaning, made all the difference.
                That is how I got my tach to be stable again.
                Present Boat- 2018 VR5 4.5/200hp Mercruiser
                Last Boat- 1998 Capri 1950CL 3.0 Mercruiser

                Comment


                  #9
                  I don't care to have my accessories receiving power via the OEM engine/hull harness.

                  For these items, I run a separate dedicated circuit forward (both Positive and Negative) to an accessory panel, and then power these items from that.
                  This removes these loads from the OEM engine/hull harness.


                  .
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                  • C-ya
                    C-ya commented
                    Editing a comment
                    That's what I did with my boat when I added the house batteries. I am powering the new panel from the house batteries since I have an On/Off battery switch with an ACR. With the engine running, my house battery voltage is 13.6 VDC, so I'm not worried about the minuscule drain from the VHF radio, the stereo (should we be using it), or any lights (LEDs). At present, the depth finder is still on the OEM harness but I'll move it soon. Since it is the old Pong-style, I may be replacing it with something a little more modern and can land the power at the new panel then.
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