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1985 2850 Prop OEM numbers-gctid351384

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    1985 2850 Prop OEM numbers-gctid351384

    I have twin AQ225 (305 Chevy) engines with the 280 outdrives from '85...I need to replace my props, as they are just old and pitted. I can not read the numbers on the hub. What are the stock numbers for these? I don't want to change diameter or pitch, just want new ones.

    Also need the best source for replacement.

    Can anyone hjelp me out?

    #2
    Dan, take your props in to a prop repair shop. They can jig them up and tell you what the pitch is.

    Then just as with any props, you must be able to reach your OEM spec WOT RPM to see if they are correct for your boat and the way that you load it.
    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Comment


      #3
      I am happy with the performance. I just want the OEM numbers.

      I want to be able to search and find the right ones. I cant read them on my props.

      Comment


        #4
        Dan, I think that you're looking for another AQ225 twin engine Contessa owner to tell you which props they're using.

        That's not the right way to go about this.... UNLESS you are after a ball park number ONLY.

        Your boat may not perform like another AQ225 twin engine 2850 Contessa, and you may not load your boat like another owner will.

        This is why I suggest that you take your props to a prop shop!

        .
        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

        Comment


          #5
          2850Bounty wrote:
          Dan, I think that you're looking for another AQ225 twin engine Contessa owner to tell you which props they're using.

          That's not the right way to go about this.... UNLESS you are after a ball park number ONLY.

          Your boat may not perform like another AQ225 twin engine 2850 Contessa, and you may not load your boat like another owner will.

          This is why I suggest that you take your props to a prop shop!

          .
          Hey Dan,

          Rick is 100% correct. The OEM numbers may NOT be what is on your boat. I know mine called for 15 x 17 LH, but what I had was a 16 x 13 LH. HUGE difference! I have not encountered a prop shop that has ever charged for this service, to just gauge the props.
          Tony, Cape Cod, MA
          Vice Commodore Bourne Yacht Club
          1994 Carver 390 Cockpit Motor Yacht
          454 Merc Cruisers inboards
          "HOLODECK"
          2014 10' hard bottomed Dink powered by 3.3HP Mariner 2 stroke
          www.bourneyachtclub.com

          Comment


            #6
            Tony, add to this that Dan has twin engines. This alone changes the prop diameter and pitch from that of a single engine in an identical boat.
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              Got it.

              I was hopeing for some OEM numbers that Bayliner put on these. I can see the numbers, but can't make them all out, and the searches I have done don't match up the he numbers I can see.

              I will take them in. I am just too lazy to go to all that work :-}

              Any good online sources for props that are good, reliable and reasonably priced? I don't mind paying a fair price, but don't want to get gouged or have cappy service.

              Comment


                #8
                Hi Dan,

                I put Composite "Piranha" 3 Blade props on my Contessa last year and like them. They are stronger than aluminum, but not as strong as stainless. Cool part is that you can replace the blades if they get damaged or you just want to change pitch for some reason. They are reasonable at $147 each. I keep a spare blade on the boat, as you can change them in the water. Check out Acepropeller.com, they are the dealer.

                Rick

                Comment


                  #9
                  Ok, I just need to figure out my diameter and pitch.

                  Thanks for the help!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    dpoelstra wrote:
                    I am happy with the performance. I just want the OEM numbers.
                    Dan, does this mean that both of your engines are capable of reaching WOT RPM with the existing props?

                    These are examples of the fixtures used to repair props, but will also determine what props you now have.

                    If the old props allowed you to reach your WOT RPM, you can find the same replacements.




                    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Honestly, I have never opener her up to WOT.

                      She's an old boat. I shouldn't worry about it, but just not comfortable. What I can tell you is when I open her up, by the time the RPMs reach about 3200 rpm I am up on plane and I can back way off the throttle, and cruise nicely at between 3000 and 3200 at 23-24 knts. I have taken her to about 4000 for a very short distance (I forget the exact speed, but I think it was around 35 knts), and she seemed to handle it fine, with throttle left over. The hole shot feels about right, (gets a little sluggish with 4 of my 200+lb fishing buddies on board) so like I said I am very happy with the performance. At some point in this boats life it sat in the water and the props are pitted. I don't think it was taken care of while in the water. It looks like it was in the water a year or so (according to a good mechanic who worked on it), and this is the only real issues that I see on this boat. I store her on a trailer now, as she has been most of her life. She came from Wisconsin, so salt water is relatively new to her. I found a Wisconsin fish and game sticker from 2003 on board. I bought it in May 2011 for a price good enough to take the risk. I am the 4th owner. The scond owner was a fireman who took great care of her, and installed a really nice halon system in the engine compartment. The guy I bought it from took good care of the engines, but let her get VERY dirty and didnt keep her up that well. He kept it on the trailer too, and said he had it in the water only for the summer, once. Looks like more than a summer to me. Some of the marinas in the L.A. Harbor are hard on boats with all kinds of stray current. Luckily he only had her a few years before I took it off his hands.

                      I know I need to replace the manifolds/risers, and I had some work done on the outdrives. All seems OK, but the props need replacing. I can't feel any vibration, but still...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        im runing 15X19 they are called elephant ears

                        ill go check the # for you

                        Like Rick i would take them to a shop

                        Comment


                          #13
                          right on!

                          Thanks

                          Comment


                            #14
                            dpoelstra wrote:
                            Honestly, I have never opener her up to WOT.

                            She's an old boat. I shouldn't worry about it, but just not comfortable.

                            What I can tell you is when I open her up, by the time the RPMs reach about 3200 rpm I am up on plane and I can back way off the throttle, and cruise nicely at between 3000 and 3200 at 23-24 knts.

                            I have taken her to about 4000 for a very short distance (I forget the exact speed, but I think it was around 35 knts), and she seemed to handle it fine, with throttle left over.
                            Dan, the reason for a WOT RPM test is to determine if the engine(s) is being over-burdened.

                            We do this by seeing if the engine (as per OEM specs) can meet the WOT RPM.

                            Your spec is in the neighborhood of 4.2K to 4.6K rpm if memory serves me.

                            If it cannot meet the WOT RPM, if may be over-burdened.

                            However, there is a catch!

                            In order to perform a WOT RPM test, all ducks must be in a row.... I.E., full engine tune, hull clean, props near pristine condition, bla bla bla, etc.

                            One othe aspect of over-burdening may (key word "may") be where you operate regarding hull attitude.

                            We do better when we're up on step and then some.

                            Meaning that your cruise of between 3k rpm and 3.2k rpm at 23-24 knts, may better serve you if just slightly above this.

                            This reduces hull drag and even while RPM is slightly higher, the engine burden is reduced.

                            This also places the engine further away from an RPM whereby detonation potential is greater!

                            Just say'n.
                            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I am reviewing all of these in anticipation of my new props being delivered. I ordered sets of 14.5x17 and 14.5x19 4 blades from I boats. They did not have 15 inch available in both rotations, and research tells me that 1/2 in diameter should not be an issue either way.

                              Rick, I increased my cruising RPM to 3500 abd 27 knts, and agree this seems less burdomesome on the engines. No mpg savings, but seems more comfortable in calm water. The water off Southern Cal can be a little too choppy to get her to WOT for very long. Getting her to about 4k rpm was looking in the high 30s, and almost got her airborne off a wave at one point. This boat can scoot. I would love to have her on one of the inland lakes and see what she can do.

                              Anyway, I expect the props to show up next week, and then i will test them out. Since I went from 3 blade up to 4 blades, I will try the 17 pitch first and see how she runs.

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