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Bad start to my season🙄

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    #46
    I am wondering if it hit the sparkplug. And why is the scoring higher up the cylinder wall then the others? Did the broken piece come out in one chunk? Hopefully you can hone it out.

    Many years ago I did a post-mortom on a 100hp Continental aircraft engine that blew the cylinder off the block during clumb out. Pieces of piston were everywhere, even in other cylinders. Talk about a mess...

    Comment


      #47
      Work on the house (deck) or work on the boat. I think we all know where Dave's priorities are!
      2004 Monterey 282 Express Sport
      5.0L Volvo Penta GXi-E (X2) w/ VP SM outdrives

      1998 BL Ciera 2655 Sunbridge LX (Special Edition) [For Sale]
      5.7L 2bbl /A​​​​​​lpha I Gen II Sterndrive/1.45:1 gears

      Docks @ Punta Gorda, Florida

      Comment


      • Nauti_Mike
        Nauti_Mike commented
        Editing a comment
        Hopefully when he gets around to the deck it doesn’t detonate as well.

      #48
      Have any of you ever seen a Thunder Bolt photo eye triggering wheel with a photo beam window that is a few degrees off?
      In other words..... what if the triggering wheel opening for #5 was off by several degrees, causing advanced ignition in #5 that lead to ignition induced detonation?


      Hey Dave. While you have the engine out you may want to mark the harmonic balancer at tdc for number 5 cylinder. Rick has me thinking about timing drift on that cylinder.
      We fought and fought with a distributor on a 351w with a jet drive. One cylinder would misfire under certain engine loads. We changed plugs wires modules etc etc. The issue was a slightly bent distributor shaft and a loose bearing. It would cause timing to drift on a couple of cylinders.
      Long story short. You could set the timing on number one then move your dial back timing light to number 5 plug wire and use the mark for number 5 tdc to verify the timing matches number one. It would be a long shot but you could at least eliminate timing differences as a potential cause for detonation in that cylinder.
      On another note...did I see a carbon track between the bad cylinder and the adjacent cylinder indicating a leaking head gasket? Hard to tell on my phone.
      I do feel your pain though. I had a vortec 383 in a bracket car. Detonation shattered the piston and the rod wind milled the sleeve and engine block. Total loss. And embarrassing to have to clean the race track in front of everyone.....
      Lance O. Albany, OR
      1996 Ciera 2855 7.4 4bbl Bravo 3
      1978 21' Hawaiian 557 BBF Berkeley Jet (dingy)

      Comment


        #49
        Perfect time to build your engine, your governor just closed your fishery.
        " WET EVER "
        1989 2459 TROPHY OFFSHORE 5.8L COBRA / SX
        mmsi 338108404
        mmsi 338124956
        "I started with nothing and still have most of it left"

        Comment


        • Nauti_Mike
          Nauti_Mike commented
          Editing a comment
          I hope the fish know they can’t swim in schools anymore.

        #50
        Yea I looked at that today, it looks pretty dark between the two center cylinders for sure, would like to see a better impression from the head gasket there. Looks that way on the other bank also. At this point I’m looking at the cost to potentially machine the block to accommodate a 383 rotating assembly versus purchasing an aftermarket 383 short block. I’ll want the heads checked/resurfaced/valve grind etc. Then there’s the potential ignition system fault.
        Good grief Charlie Brown, I just wanted to go fishin🤪
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


        • pgiconch
          pgiconch commented
          Editing a comment
          Can't. The Gov sez no fishing!

        #51
        BTW, all the plugs and the cylinders were heavily oiled up from the excessive crankcase pressure created from the piston failure, I idled it for almost 2 hours after the melt down. #5 plug took a hit likely from the piston debris when it let go.
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #52
          Holy Flying Fish sticks Bat-Dave!!!! It RAN for 2 hours after the explosion? Wowser.
          2004 Monterey 282 Express Sport
          5.0L Volvo Penta GXi-E (X2) w/ VP SM outdrives

          1998 BL Ciera 2655 Sunbridge LX (Special Edition) [For Sale]
          5.7L 2bbl /A​​​​​​lpha I Gen II Sterndrive/1.45:1 gears

          Docks @ Punta Gorda, Florida

          Comment


            #53
            Originally posted by builderdude View Post
            Yea I looked at that today, it looks pretty dark between the two center cylinders for sure, would like to see a better impression from the head gasket there. Looks that way on the other bank also. At this point I’m looking at the cost to potentially machine the block to accommodate a 383 rotating assembly versus purchasing an aftermarket 383 short block. I’ll want the heads checked/resurfaced/valve grind etc. Then there’s the potential ignition system fault.
            Good grief Charlie Brown, I just wanted to go fishin🤪
            “Good grief Charlie Brown, I just wanted to go fishin”

            That’s the same line you used when you bought this boat and ended up rebuilding from the hull up.
            1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

            Mike

            Comment


              #54
              Originally posted by pgiconch View Post
              Holy Flying Fish sticks Bat-Dave!!!! It RAN for 2 hours after the explosion? Wowser.
              Nothing takes a beating like a small block Chevrolet...
              88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
              98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
              07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

              Long Island Sound Region

              Comment


                #55
                Could you maybe fashion a mast, or oar locks, instead......it would prolly be easier to move anyway, without the weight of a motor?

                That is harsh dude....sorry for your bad luck

                You got time now anyway......

                https://www.foxnews.com/great-outdoo...ow-coronavirus

                Comment


                  #56
                  Dave, one thing I didn’t see at all in your cyls, absolutely no cross hatching. Could be the lighting and angle but how much time on that engine? I’m curious what direction you take on the rebuild. I sure see benefits to a 383 but have no idea what the cost of that versus a stock rebuild would be. I wouldn’t think all that much since you’re replacing much of the reciprocating parts anyway?
                  Jim Gandee
                  1989 3888
                  Hino 175's
                  Fire Escape
                  [email protected]

                  Comment


                    #57
                    One of the hard thing with situation's as Dave has is what and how, it takes a bit of [email protected] pack searching.
                    Slightly modified 2859 6.5 Diesel Bravo III X drive
                    96 Dodge 5.9 5 speed Gear vender OD.

                    Comment


                      #58
                      Spoke w machine shop yesterday to get a ballpark of the cost to machine my existing block (assuming it’s usable) to accept a 383 rotating assembly (forged crank, rods, QE pistons, rings, bearings etc)
                      About 3500😳
                      Now I’ll find out what I can get already assembled, something similar to this maybe if I can get them to put in a QE piston that’d probably do the trick.
                      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3834

                      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp38319
                      Dave
                      Edmonds, WA
                      "THE FIX"
                      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                      Misc. projects thread
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                      Comment


                        #59
                        Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                        Spoke w machine shop yesterday to get a ballpark of the cost to machine my existing block (assuming it’s usable) to accept a 383 rotating assembly (forged crank, rods, QE pistons, rings, bearings etc)
                        About 3500😳
                        Now I’ll find out what I can get already assembled, something similar to this maybe if I can get them to put in a QE piston that’d probably do the trick.
                        https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3834

                        https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp38319
                        Hi Dave,
                        FWIW, the piston that exploded in my 383 was a hypereutectic. You just broke a cast piston. These are both brittle materials. I personally prefer forged pistons whenever possible because they seem to be less likely to break due to mild detonation. If you are buying pistons (or a short block) you may want to consider forged pistons. I think they are worth the extra cost. For a medium performance application such as a fishing boat, forged cranks and rods provide piece of mind and bragging rights, but may or may not be worth the extra cost.
                        BTW, my engine was a GM crate engine. It blew on the last track day of the year, and I was already planning to swap out the hypereutectic pistons and PM rods for forged pistons and rods over the winter. "But, hey, those stock GM pistons should hold for the rest of the season, right????"
                        Lance O. Albany, OR
                        1996 Ciera 2855 7.4 4bbl Bravo 3
                        1978 21' Hawaiian 557 BBF Berkeley Jet (dingy)

                        Comment


                        • builderdude
                          builderdude commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Yea those forged pistons lookin real good right now.

                        #60
                        I think these guys are down in your area Raptor Engines. There are three retorques required on the head bolts during break in. Which I don't think would be a problem for you. Some bad reviews, some good reviews. Had a bud order this engine and he had no complaints other than they forgot the balancer which they shipped right away once he told them about it. If the break in done correctly these are great engines and will probably save you thousands over a DIY rebuild. The cost of this engine is 1000 bucks cheaper than grinding your old block. http://raptorengines.com/product/che...gine-350-305/#
                        1990 2955
                        2 X 350, Alpha Gen II's

                        Comment


                        • builderdude
                          builderdude commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Was looking at raptors site yesterday, definitely a possible source. Thanks
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