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attempting to start up vp 260b in a ciera

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    attempting to start up vp 260b in a ciera

    My father in law gave me a 1986 ciera with a volvo penta 260b 350 engine and a 275 out drive what should I take a look at besides doing a normal maintenance and flush to attempt to get it started

    #2
    If it’s been sitting for some time I would replace the impeller, pull the spark plugs to inspect their condition, check the condition of the fuel by removing the filter and empty it’s contents into a glass jar to look for water and color. Next verify the battery is good see if the engine will turn over with the plugs removed. If not sitting long you can skip the last step.
    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

    Mike

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      #3
      Is there any way to turn it over by hand, because I believe it's been sitting a long time. And to drain the fuel I should only need to yank the hose off of the fuel filter right and the fuel should flow out of the tank

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        #4
        If you pull the plugs you should be able to rotate the engine from the alternator nut assuming the belt is tight. Some light oil or WD40 down the plug holes will help. Once you have it loose you can spin it a bunch with the starter and get the oil pressure up. The gas tank has an anti siphon valve, so, no, it won’t- or shouldn’t- drain itself.
        P/C Pete
        Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
        1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
        Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
        MMSI 367770440

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          #5
          Is the the anti siphon valve connected directly to the tank or is it inline, so the best way to drain it would be through the filler inlet. Thanks for the help

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            #6
            start her up on a external tank of fresh fuel, connected to the fuel pump, you can try cranking with the plugs out.
            Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

            1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

            '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

            Manalapan N.J

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              #7
              Yep that's exactly what I was going to do nothing screws engines and carbs worse than old fuel or lacquer as it is now

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                #8
                There are companies that clean the tanks and fuel. Part of the price is how many gallons are in the tank, but it may be worth doing instead of depending on filters to catch all the crap. The anti siphon is usually connected to the fuel pickup on the tank.
                P/C Pete
                Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
                1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
                Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
                MMSI 367770440

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by balen51 View Post
                  Is there any way to turn it over by hand, because I believe it's been sitting a long time. And to drain the fuel I should only need to yank the hose off of the fuel filter right and the fuel should flow out of the tank
                  Depends, if the fuel filter is a screw on and looks like an oil filter remove it and pour it into a glass jar. The anti-siphon valve is built into the hose barb on the fuel tank, it’s a check ball and spring. Using an external tank is ok just be careful about spilling and vapors. You may be able to turn it by hand by grabbing the belt, using a wrench on the alternator or crank bolt but only turn counterclockwise so you don’t break the bolt if it’s seized. Best is a strap wrench around the balancer. In all cases remove all the plugs and spray in some fogging oil to coat all surfaces. If you have an auto inspection scope look into each plug hole for rust to get an idea of the cylinders conditions.
                  1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                  Mike

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I already tried pulling on the belt it barely budged but I also didnt remove the spark plugs, I'll remove them tommorrow and put a bar on the alternator to see if it moves. I have to remove the sterndrive to replace the bellows so I mind as well have it off for inspection

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                      #11
                      A few suggestions for you:

                      With the spark plugs removed, use a strap wrench on the perimeter of the harmonic balancer to turn the crankshaft over.
                      Since this engine uses a Crankshaft mounted seawater pump, it is unlikely that you would remove the seawater pump and try to use the center crankshaft bolt.
                      However, if that thought crosses your mind.....
                      DO NOT DO THIS unless you attempt to turn the crankshaft in the CCW direction ONLY, as per Mike's suggestion!


                      Remove the cover on the seawater pump, remove the old impeller and examine the impeller housing, both thrust surfaces, etc.
                      Replace with the correct impeller. The AQ 260B would have been fitted with the Jabsco seawater pump. If Jabsco, make sure that you get the correct impeller for it.
                      When you install the new impeller, coat it (and the pump body cavity) liberally with "glycerin" from a pharmacy.

                      DO NOT use any Petroleum products to lubricate the impeller!

                      The AQ 260B may have been OEM with the old style Bendix starter motor. If so, these are slow turning and are not as effective at cranking an engine over.
                      If you replace it, DO NOT go back with the same.
                      Instead, go with a Marine HTGR/PMGR starter motor for the SBC 153 tooth flywheel.

                      When replacing the drive shaft bellows, remove the transmission ONLY.
                      (there is no need to remove the entire stern drive for this work alone)
                      OEM is best..... Sierra is OK.


                      Never attempt to re-use any O-rings. They will not go a second time around.


                      There is no need to use an external fuel tank that may present some risks!
                      The main fuel tank needs to be drained and cleaned anyway.
                      I would remove the Anti-Siphon valve (as is, it will prevent a siphon) and replace it temporarily with a standard barbed fitting.
                      I would then safely connect a long hose to it and start my siphon into 5 gallon gas cans that have been placed on the ground.
                      If the siphon is slow, you can pull the fuel tank dip tube (aka pick-up tube) and examine the screen on the end of it.
                      Clean it or remove it.

                      Next..... I would add 10 gallons of Non-Ethanol gasoline.
                      I would replace the Anti-Siphon valve with a new one.
                      I would also replace the fuel filter cartridge.
                      (see ** below)

                      *** The line from the fuel pump to carburetor can be replaced with a USCG approved A1-15 fuel line, clamped according the the same rules.

                      You will need to keep an eye on the fuel filter, and may need to change it several times.
                      You may even need to pull the dip tube again after XX hours of run time and examine the screen.


                      ** The AQ 260B would have been OEM with the engine mounted funky and out-dated fuel filter system.
                      If so, I would remove that, drain the fuel from it, and toss it into the recycle bin.
                      I would replace it "off engine" with a Parker/RACOR unit.
                      The Parker/RACOR filter must be the "inboard" version with the metal bowl...... not the "outboard" version with the clear plastic bowl.
                      (see *** above regarding fuel lines)

                      There will be a small filter in the carburetor body. Replace that as well.


                      If the boat had been put-a-way years ago, and had not been started since then, there is a chance that the fuel in the carburetor evaporated rather quickly.
                      If so, the carburetor may not be all gummed up.
                      While wearing eye protection, carefully spray a good carb cleaner (using the red straw) into the low speed circuit air introduction orifices.
                      (these are visible from above and are near the primary throttle bores)
                      With any luck, you will clear a major portion of these low speed circuits.


                      Note that the Lift-Out device is for tilting the drive up ONLY and that it is NOT be used as a power trim.
                      In other words, do not power up while the drive is tilted up.


                      While the transmission is removed for bellows replacement, see if you can feel any side movement at the PDS (primary drive shaft).
                      It is very likely that the PDS bearings have not been replaced, and even more likely that they were not routinely serviced.
                      If not, I would strongly suggest doing so soon after you learn that the engine is OK.
                      Likewise with the drive shaft bearing crosses (aka U-joints).


                      Without even questioning it, remove the shift mechanism and replace the eccentric piston seal.
                      These are prone to leaking after they get old.
                      NOTE: this seal is directional.... so make sure that it is installed correctly!


                      Stern drive gear lube:
                      If in cold water, your 275 s/p drive requires 30W engine oil, and it can non-detergent oil.
                      You can use 40W if in warm waters (Florida, for example)

                      DO NOT use heavy gear oil!
                      Heavy gear oil may cause damage to the slinger pump impeller drive pin.
                      If you were to shear a drive pin, the slinger pump will not work, causing the upper gear unit to over-heat.



                      Ignition system and ignition advance:
                      Make sure that the system is a Marine approved unit, and is NOT an Automotive system.
                      Your AQ260 should see no more than 28* @ 3,200 RPM.


                      If you need help with any of the above, start a new topic specific thread.
                      Be sure to use "AQ260B" in your thread title.



                      You can find most all of the schematics that you'll need here.
                      When looking, use the AQ 260 B data.
                      Note that the BB 260 refers to the Inboard version.

                      http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/...t-7744020.aspx




                      Good luck with the project. I hope that you can get her running soon.


                      .
                      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks that's an amazingly good amount of info. The anti siphon valve is at the top of the tank right, and I do have the cartridge fuel filter not the spin on the transmission you mean the upper part of the sterndrive . You 2850 bounty you say I can replace that metal tube that to the carb that looks like a flared brake line can be replaced with approved fuel line that's good news because somebody twisted it before I got to it and its 100 dollars for for a replacement

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                          #13
                          I removed all of the plugs except two I couldn't get anything on them I'm thinking it might require removing the exhaust manifold. It's going to have to wait because it's raining in sunny north florida where I am

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                            #14
                            You should not need to remove the exhaust manifold for those spark plugs!

                            Yes, the Anti-Siphon valve will be threaded into the dip tube’s 90* fitting. It will actually look like a long barbed fitting.

                            If your fuel filter requires a cartridge inside of a canister....it will be the OEM. I would get rid of it.

                            Yes, the transmission is the uppermost component of the stern drive.

                            Yes, you can replace the metal fuel line with the appropriate USCG approved fuel hose. It must fit on to the correct style barbed fittings, and must be clamped with the correct style and size band clamps.

                            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Here is what the OEM fuel filter looks like.

                              http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/...23-17923B.aspx


                              As for the tuff to get spark plugs, by chance are these GLM manifolds?
                              GLM did have an issue with some.


                              .
                              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                              Comment

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