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Installed replacement depth gauge, now boat won't start

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    Installed replacement depth gauge, now boat won't start

    If you saw one of my threads about replacing the original Bayliner supplied depth gauge on my Cierra, you'll see I now have a fully functional depth gauge and a zero functioning 350 MAG MPI

    The bad news is I haven't tried to use the boat since installing it, we showed up Saturday to go fishing and the boat won't start! The only work I've done on the boat was taking off the dashboard and removing and installing the depth gauge. I must have screwed something up but can't for the life of me figure it out, maybe I shorted something out. I checked all the circuit breakers under the helm and none were poped, pressed the red button on top of the engine just in case, swapped in new batteries but it still won't start. Everything powers up fine, engine cranks nice and strong but it just won't start.

    I threw a timing light on the coil wire just to make sure its getting spark and it is. Checked the 3 fuses next to the ECU, good, swapped the fuel pump relay with a new one and made sure the ECU connectors looked good after reseating them, nothing. Yes it has fuel, 40 gallons of 2 week old fuel. Fuel pump primes, everything seems normal, tuned up 4 months ago from plugs to wires to cap and rotor so I don't think that is it. Hooked up a diagnosis computer but it has no stored codes or is it beeping.

    I'm pretty sure its got to be something related to me disassmbling the gauge cluster panel or wiring up the depth gauge incorrectly. Depth gauge works fine lol!

    #2
    I hate that! Check to make sure all of the wires that should be connected are. Especially the “run” position wire. It may be that it’s actually starting but as soon as you let off the key switch there’s nothing there.
    P/C Pete
    Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
    1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
    Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
    1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
    MMSI 367770440
    1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
    Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

    Comment


      #3
      Could be a bad ECU. I actually had one go bad on my 3055 underway. The engine just shut down and would not restart. Cranked over like a racehorse but no start. Just a possibility yours went bad. In my case a $900 part.
      Rick Grew

      1981 Carver 3007 Aft Cabin

      2004 Past Commodore
      West River Yacht & Cruising Club
      www.wrycc.com

      Comment


        #4
        Engine cranks and has spark, only thing left is to verify it's getting fuel. Measure the fuel pressure at the end of the fuel rail to see if you have the correct pressure to the injectors.
        1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

        Mike

        Comment


          #5
          +1 with Rick & Mike on potential for bad ECU or fuel (pump). Or - Perhaps a wire came off the back of the safety kill switch In the dash? Or if it is in the shifter like mine, it got bumped off? I had bumped it down once while working at the helm. Didn't realize it. Made me do a lot of checks before the Admiral pointed it out (How embarrassing). Or, disconnect the wires from the new gauge and see what happens. Just throwing some spaghetti on the wall here.
          1998 BL Ciera 2655 Sunbridge LX (Special Edition)
          "Sea Flights"
          5.7L 2bbl w/Thunderbolt Ignition and raw water cooling
          A​​​​​​lpha I Gen II Sterndrive/1.45:1 gears
          M15.25 X 15P Black Max prop
          MFG Extra's - A/C, Fresh Water Engine Flush port, HWH and Windlass
          Docks @ Punta Gorda, Florida

          Comment


            #6
            I do not intimately know your setup but I want to suggest a few things (one is based on your coil/spark comment)

            1, Move the timing light to each spark plug wire to check for activity.
            2. "Read" a plug or two and determine color and wetness.
            3. Get a fire extinguisher handy along with a helper and if the plugs were bone dry, add a touch of gas or starter fluid to see if it even tries to fire up.

            Although it may be related to your work........it also may not be.

            Years ago my wife clipped an orange construction barrel and pulled on the shoulder to inspect the car.
            When she got back in the car, the check engine light was on.
            She called me and we determined that the car was safe to drive home.
            It had a misfire code that I reset.....the car seemed to be running well.
            The light came back on and this time I noticed her coffee cup shaking just a wee little bit ….only at idle.
            Further diagnosis revealed a single cam lobe (DOHC 4V per cylinder) was wiped on this 70,000 engine...………..this all had nothing to do with hitting the barrel and luckily was covered by our extended warranty.
            Present Boat- 2018 VR5 4.5/200hp Mercruiser
            Last Boat- 1998 Capri 1950CL 3.0 Mercruiser

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Nauti_Mike View Post
              Engine cranks and has spark, only thing left is to verify it's getting fuel. Measure the fuel pressure at the end of the fuel rail to see if you have the correct pressure to the injectors.
              forgot to mention I did that, it was 43psi at key on and did not drop after 30 seconds

              If that safety kill switch was thoretically tripped, would the engine even crank?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by toy4two View Post

                forgot to mention I did that, it was 43psi at key on and did not drop after 30 seconds

                If that safety kill switch was thoretically tripped, would the engine even crank?
                Yes the engine would crank but there would not be spark. The kill switch removes power to the ignition system to stop the engine in a man overboard situation. The neutral safety switch being open prevents the engine from cranking.
                1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                Mike

                Comment


                  #9
                  You stated you tested for spark via the coil wire, have you also tested for spark at a plug wire or at a plug itself? Could this be a failed distributor trigger or poor connection there?
                  Dave
                  Edmonds, WA
                  "THE FIX"
                  '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                  (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                  The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                  Misc. projects thread
                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                    You stated you tested for spark via the coil wire, have you also tested for spark at a plug wire or at a plug itself? Could this be a failed distributor trigger or poor connection there?
                    Yes I only tested at the coil wire just as a quick check to make sure its generating spark. I did not test all the wires but see that in my future. I talked to a mechanic and he said he has seen it before where during a dash gauge installation something gets crossed/shorted and the ECU no longer fires the engine. Since that is the only thing I've touched is the depth gauge wiring behind the gauge cluster I suspect its somethign like that.

                    I already tried spraying starter fluid down the intake and even with that it wouldn't fire which had me completely baffled. I think that may be because of all the cranking (15-30 times over a few hours) the plugs were flooded at that point.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                      You stated you tested for spark via the coil wire, have you also tested for spark at a plug wire or at a plug itself? Could this be a failed distributor trigger or poor connection there?
                      If the trigger system was bad there would be no spark, however a bad rotor or cap would prevent the spark from getting to each wire.
                      1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                      Mike

                      Comment


                      • builderdude
                        builderdude commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Ah yes your correct Mike 👍🏼

                      #12
                      Originally posted by toy4two View Post

                      Yes I only tested at the coil wire just as a quick check to make sure its generating spark. I did not test all the wires but see that in my future. I talked to a mechanic and he said he has seen it before where during a dash gauge installation something gets crossed/shorted and the ECU no longer fires the engine. Since that is the only thing I've touched is the depth gauge wiring behind the gauge cluster I suspect its somethign like that.

                      I already tried spraying starter fluid down the intake and even with that it wouldn't fire which had me completely baffled. I think that may be because of all the cranking (15-30 times over a few hours) the plugs were flooded at that point.
                      MAP sensor will not take kindly to being sprayed.
                      1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                      Mike

                      Comment


                        #13
                        Let's assume you did hook up the depth finder wrong......let's assume that although wrong, it did not blow a fuse...…………..

                        Take a picture of the depth finder present wiring.....disconnect and insulate each one of them and let them dangle in the air...….try starting the engine......leave it disconnected until you get the engine running.....then reconnect.
                        Present Boat- 2018 VR5 4.5/200hp Mercruiser
                        Last Boat- 1998 Capri 1950CL 3.0 Mercruiser

                        Comment


                          #14
                          all fixed, took the mechanic all of 5 minutes to start it and an hour of labor to fix permenantly.

                          He couldn't get it to start. Pushes the button on the end of the throttle and slightly advances the throttle, THEN starts it. Fires up and stays running.

                          Hooks up his computer now that the engine is running, said IAC valve unresponsive, replaces it with a shiny new one, and retests without throttle advancement. Started everytime. In cheap. The gauge work had nothing to do with it and IAC just randomly failed during the week it sat.

                          Keep a spare IAC valve handy fellas, and MAKE SURE ITS GENUINE MERCRUISER, I can't state this strongly enough, the automotive ones do not work as well and don't last.

                          Oh he also scolded me for trying starter fluid, told me he's lucky my valve cover didn't blow straight off, he's seen it before some yahoo sprays that in the intake spark and BOOM, he was actually angry I didn't tell him before he started it, says its too explosive and NEVER EVER use it on today's engines.

                          Comment


                            #15
                            OK I'll bite. What's an IAC valve?
                            Glen Sherwood
                            1987 3270 twin 305’s
                            Coupeville, WA

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