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    Winterizing with less than 20 hrs

    So it's time to winterize hear in Maryland. I was wondering if I need to change the oil and filter and plugs if I have less than 20 hours this year more like 10 /15 . I want to do the right thing of coarse . Don't mind changing it mid season of i use it more next year

    #2
    We don't want the dirty oil sitting on the engine parts unused for the next 6 months....change the oil and filter.

    Change lower unit lube.....make sure no milkshake appearance or excess particles.

    Carbed engine?...….fog through carb until it stalls.....those plugs are now gross. I always had "fogging plugs" and put my "good" plugs in once the motor cooled down after the stall.

    FI engine----do not fog, you will mess up MAF sensor

    Pull prop....grease splines, check shaft seal for anything wrapped around it.

    Winterize the block and manifold(s) to protect from freeze damage.

    Make sure to add fuel stabilizer and run engine long enough to make it to the carb...….do first before all the other stuff....or even during your last outing on the water.

    Grease engine coupler...….inspect/maybe pack wheel bearings with grease.
    Present Boat- 2018 VR5 4.5/200hp Mercruiser
    Last Boat- 1998 Capri 1950CL 3.0 Mercruiser

    Comment


      #3
      Agree... go ahead and change the oil and filter... run with fuel stabilizer... drain block and manifolds is a must.

      If me...I would pull prop, check to make sure no fishing line entanglement and grease splines with evinrude triple guard grease. The bellows etc should be fine but I would drain tad of drive oil and inspect to ensure no water in it.

      store with driver lowered and straight ahead.

      2008 H210SS Four Winns
      Volvo Penta 5.7 GISX
      Prior: 1997 2050SS Bayliner
      Brad / Texas Gulf Coast

      Comment


        #4
        Definitely change the oil. Plugs should be OK. I generally changed out my plugs every 100 hours.
        Rick Grew

        1981 Carver 3007 Aft Cabin

        2004 Past Commodore
        West River Yacht & Cruising Club
        www.wrycc.com

        Comment


          #5
          Agreed, change oil however there is nothing in the filter after 15 hrs and therefor I would keep that in place. Your oil is probably still rather new looking I must assume.
          Cheers, Hans
          2007 Carver 41 CMY
          Twin Volvo D6-370
          Montreal, Canada
          Midnight Sun I Photos

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by dahluwalia View Post
            So it's time to winterize hear in Maryland. I was wondering if I need to change the oil and filter and plugs if I have less than 20 hours this year more like 10 /15 . I want to do the right thing of coarse . Don't mind changing it mid season of i use it more next year

            The Truth and the Myth:

            Engine oil will become contaminated with combustion by-products.
            These by-products can cause the oil to become laden with alkalinity and acidity, of which in the long haul is not good.
            However, after only 20 hours run time, I'm not sure that I would be very concerned.
            Think about what occurs during the normal boating season when we go 100 hours between oil/filter changes!

            If you do changer the oil/filter, fire the engine up and bring this new oil through the system.


            Stern drive gear oil does not become laden with combustion by-products.
            If the stern drive gear oil is clear and clean, and is not contaminated with water, metallic residue, etc, there is no reason to change it.

            I do agree with the fuel stabilization.
            Stabilize the fuel, then run the engine as to bring the now stabilized fuel into the system.
            An easy way to do this is to stabilize prior to your last outing!


            I suggest pulling the seawater pump impeller, and doing a quick 10 to 15 second low RPM "dry start" as to blow the exhaust system out.
            In 10 to 15 seconds of low RPM operation, you will not harm any components!


            If fogging, this is done to carbureted engines ONLY.
            If FI, there is a different procedure to be used.



            .
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 2850Bounty View Post

              I suggest pulling the seawater pump impeller, and doing a quick 10 to 15 second low RPM "dry start" as to blow the exhaust system out.
              In 10 to 15 seconds of low RPM operation, you will not harm any components!
              Bounty, can you elaborate on this? I'm interested in learning more an about this procedure. This is something I have never heard of.
              2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
              Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

              2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
              Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

              1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
              Evinrude 88 Special

              1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
              1992 Johnson 40HP.

              Comment


                #8
                Check the drive oil, not milky leave it alone, I would not change the engine oil, I would drain the block and mani's, leave the drive fully down and the bilge plug out boat bow raised, battery disconnected.
                Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                Manalapan N.J

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Waterdowg View Post
                  Bounty, can you elaborate on this? I'm interested in learning more an about this procedure. This is something I have never heard of.
                  That is correct! You will not hear nor read about this in any service manual. Just as with raising a stern drive no more than need be for clearance, and just as with storing a stern drive in the full down and straight ahead position as to eliminate any unwanted stress on the under-side of the drive shaft bellows.


                  Procedure:

                  With an A drive, you would need to remove the lower gear unit. You can then chose to remove the impeller for the layup duration, or do the dry start at that point.

                  With a belt driven seawater pump, you can either remove the impeller or loosen the drive belt. If you remove the impeller for the layup period, it will extend the impeller's life.

                  With a crankshaft pump, you simply remove the front cover and the impeller. If you remove the impeller for the layup period, it will also extend it's life.

                  I've been doing this for well over 30 years. I have yet to see any damage caused by a short 10 to 15 second low RPM dry start!


                  You can also Fog a carbureted engine in that same 10 to 15 seconds, killing two birds with the same stone!
                  And again, you will not read this in any service manual.


                  For me, it's a no brainer to blow the exhaust dry just prior to the layup.







                  And for average Joe do-it-your-selfer, please say NO to these for use with the Raw Water Cooled engines!
                  We do not want to read about your discovery come spring time!




                  Click image for larger version  Name:	Camco winterizing kit no no  .jpg Views:	0 Size:	132.0 KB ID:	542223


                  .
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                    #10
                    "
                    I suggest pulling the seawater pump impeller, and doing a quick 10 to 15 second low RPM "dry start" as to blow the exhaust system out.
                    In 10 to 15 seconds of low RPM operation, you will not harm any components!

                    With a Mercruiser Alpha this would require draining the gear lube, removing the impeller, reinstalling the lower unit and refilling with gear lube or leaving the lower off all winter which exposes the upper gears to an open environment without an oil film rust can occur.

                    I have never done this but do replace my impeller every two years without any issues from the raw water pump.
                    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                    Mike

                    Comment


                      #11
                      With the A drive, and if you don’t want to remove the impeller, pull the supply hose from the T stat housing, and divert the garden hose water into the bilge!


                      .
                      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                      Comment

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