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Engines stalling - Bayliner 3058 Motoryacht - 30'

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    #16
    You may want to look at the possibility of an electric choke adjustment and/or a possible flooding issue on the suspect engine.
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

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      #17
      I'd say NautiMike nailed it. It's a sticky lower shift cable. They way it works is that tension on the shift cable operates the cutout switch. Normally, there is only tension when coming out of gear. But, when the cable sticks it can happen when going in or out of gear as the cable mimicks the tension normally created by moving out of gear.

      You can actually watch the switch mechanism operate when moving it in and out of gear with and without the engine running and see if the switch is engaging for longer than a brief instant. then, disconnect the lower shift cable and see how it changes.

      Without the engine running it should barely move. with the engine running it should engage when coming out of gear briefly.


      The other stuff is probably choke out of adjustment, but when the engine is warm and it stalls when shifting, you can bet it's the interrupter system somehow.

      Note: If you replace the cable there is a specific routing to follow that minimizes the chances of binding...the damn thing is sensitive!

      Chay

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        #18
        Lower shift cable routing.
        Click image for larger version

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        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #19
          You guys are the best!!.....but unfortunately I have a change in the diagnosis.....I went down to try shifting while docked the other night.....and before even getting a chance to shift....the engine stalled twice (after being warm and idling nicely at 700 rpm)......just being in neutral. So.....this might change things a bit. Leads me to believe its just something like weak spark plugs or carb might need to be cleaned?

          Just tying to get maintenance records from the previous owner to see when he last did these things....

          Will report back asap. Thank you once again.
          1991 - Bayliner 3058 Motoryacht - 30'

          Comment


            #20
            Suggest you pull the cowling (plastic gizmo over the carb - if there) and flame arrestor (air cleaner on a car) from the carb while cold. Look to see if the choke plate is closed, or closes if you advance the throttle prior to starting. Then start the engine (One at a time) and watch while it warms to ensure the choke plate is opening fully. If it doesn't, that may lead to stalling. Also check (actually replace) the fuel seperato and the little fuel filter located where the fuel line enters the carb. After that, run at a fast idle and spray some gumout down the carb to help clean out any last bits of dirt, gum or varnish.

            All that provided you have checked that the shift interrupted isn't killing it due to misalignment as mentioned in above posts.
            1998 BL Ciera 2655 Sunbridge LX (Special Edition)
            "Sea Flights"
            5.7L 2bbl w/Thunderbolt Ignition and raw water cooling
            A​​​​​​lpha I Gen II Sterndrive/1.45:1 gears
            M15.25 X 15P Black Max prop
            MFG Extra's - A/C, Fresh Water Engine Flush port, HWH and Windlass
            Docks @ Punta Gorda, Florida

            Comment


            • Nauti_Mike
              Nauti_Mike commented
              Editing a comment
              I would first check that the choke plate is fully opening. If it’s not the engine will be running too rich and fowling the plugs enough to stall the engine.

            #21
            Ignition related? Could still be the shift interrupter causing this. Did you run it with the shift interrupter disconnected. I’d also check connections at the coil and the negative at the ignition module to eliminate those as possibilities.
            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment

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