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    AQ280 Not engaging prop

    Sage advice please! The boat's been operating really well. Done numerous long trips cruising at 3400 RPM for 90 mins each way. Was out at Seafair moving around all morning last weekend. Went to move forward and nothing...

    Points to note:
    1. Gear shift moves into forward and reverse easily - don't believe I have a cable issue.
    2. With engine off, and gear shift in either forward or reverse, the prop spins freely.
    3. Gear oil is 30W. The outdrive dipstick showed oil level to be full.
    4. Drained gear oil and there's contamination - came out a slighly bluish/gray color.

    Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting? I'm changing the gear oil tonight as a starting point but I suspect something more...

    #2
    the 280 has a cone clutch and the prop WILL turn freely in either direction when the engine isnt running and its in gear..... the drive shaft HAS to be turning to hold the cone in the cup to create the friction necessary to turn the prop and move the boat..

    slightly bluish gray color?.... Ive seen lots of contaminated oils, but none that is blueish/gray in color.... iv seen milky brown, yellow, tan and thick gray sludge, but never any blue tint to it....

    after changing the oil, I would start the trouble shooting by running the engine and then see if the clutch will engage when shifted into gear....


    NU LIBERTE'
    Salem, OR

    1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
    5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
    N2K equipped throughout..
    2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
    2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
    '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
    Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

    Comment


      #3
      ..............
      Originally posted by jon_s_brady View Post
      Assuming that the prop is in place, and assuming that the prop hub is OK, here are my suggestions/comments:

      Points to note:
      1. Gear shift moves into forward and reverse easily - don't believe I have a cable issue.
      Even a bad 280 will shift in/out of gear easily.
      Remove the shift unit cover and see if the cable is attached correctly, and if it is fully operating the eccentric piston in either direction.
      Make sure that the gear yoke is not bottoming out in either direction. (gear yoke = the bell crank looking mechanism)


      2. With engine off, and gear shift in either forward or reverse, the prop spins freely.
      During partial movement only, the prop will spin in the direction regardless of the gear selected.
      When in FWD gear, try rotating the prop against the FWD direction. The friction between the gear cup and sliding sleeve should create eventual lock up.
      When in REV gear, try rotating the prop against the REV direction. The friction between the gear cup and sliding sleeve should create eventual lock up.


      3. Gear oil is 30W. The outdrive dipstick showed oil level to be full.
      Full level will be 1/2 way up the flat area on the dip stick!

      4. Drained gear oil and there's contamination - came out a slighly bluish/gray color.
      Any blue color may indicate that someone used Merc oil.
      Not only will this heavier gear oil damage the slinger pump, it may cause issues with the sliding sleeve and gear cups.


      Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting? I'm changing the gear oil tonight as a starting point but I suspect something more..
      Before changing the oil, remove the eccentric piston shift unit. This will cost you one new O-ring, in addition to your drain plug and dip stick O-rings.
      Look to see if the shift shoe is in tact.
      A broken shift shoe will not raise/lower the sliding sleeve.


      If all is OK, re-visit #2 above.
      If you cannot get the cup and sleeve to lock up as suggested in #2, you may have sheared the vertical shaft spline coupler.

      Lastly, if the spline coupler is OK, and if the shift shoe is OK, you may have debris within the oiling groves of the sliding sleeve. Debris will prevent enough friction from occurring.
      If so, the transmission will need to be disassembled as to access the sliding sleeve.
      Once out, you will need to lap the sleeve into each respective gear cup.
      There is a technique for this that will not be found in the Volvo Penta literature.


      Post back with your findings.


      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Comment


        #4
        Like to see a pic of the bluish grey gear oil.....
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #5
          I put these images together as to help a member who had a slightly different issue.
          However, they will give you an idea as to how the sliding sleeve and the gear cups mate and lock up.






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          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            Did we lose Jon, the OP?
            He posted on the 6th, and has not been back!
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              You haven’t lost me. Damn work gets in the way of living my life! I’m back at it now that it’s the weekend. Will report back soon!

              Comment


                #8
                Rick, I followed your guide. The prop never locked up. I suspect I’m up to...”If you cannot get the cup and sleeve to lock up as suggested in #2, you may have sheared the vertical shaft spline coupler.”

                So how do I check that? Drop the lower unit?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by jon_s_brady View Post
                  Rick, I followed your guide. The prop never locked up. I suspect I’m up to...”If you cannot get the cup and sleeve to lock up as suggested in #2, you may have sheared the vertical shaft spline coupler.”

                  So how do I check that? Drop the lower unit?
                  Yes, you can remove the lower gear unit, or you can remove the transmission only.
                  Either one will let you access the coupler.

                  With the transmission removed, you can go ahead and replace your water neck fitting and the driveshaft Bellows.
                  You can also grab the PDS and check for side-to-side slop.
                  Unless you know that these bearings have been replaced, you will most likely want to replace them.
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Next job coming up! Thanks for the guidance. I think I’ll remove the transmission. Is there a parts kit or something I should order for the PDS bearing?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by jon_s_brady View Post
                      Next job coming up! Thanks for the guidance. I think I’ll remove the transmission. Is there a parts kit or something I should order for the PDS bearing?
                      Do you have the original Red 1 pc flywheel cover (bell housing in the auto world)?
                      If so, you'll need industry standard bearings in a 6206 and a 6007, and two 35x62x7mm TCM or Timken single lip seals.

                      If the flywheel cover has been replaced with a charcoal gray unit, you will need a 6206-2RS bearing and a 35x62x7mm TCM or Timken single lip se
                      al.

                      See post #9 in this thread
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...-bounty-cables
                      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Removed the transmission. This is what greeted me...Main drive shaft to the bottom of the outdrive.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Are you going to repair this yourself?
                          If so, I can walk you through it.
                          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yes, I do all my own mechanic work - boat and cars. The wife hates it but I just can't help myself...I like to know how things work and the best way is to do it myself. I've just been looking at my Clymer manual but I'd appreciate your guidance.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              ..........................
                              Originally posted by jon_s_brady View Post
                              Yes, I do all my own mechanic work - boat and cars. The wife hates it but I just can't help myself...I like to know how things work and the best way is to do it myself. I've just been looking at my Clymer manual but I'd appreciate your guidance.
                              Jon, watch for errors in the Seloc and/or Clymers manuals.
                              Great images, but a few occasional errors in the text.

                              First, secure the prop shaft from rotating.
                              Next, depress the vertical shaft and drive gear into the driven gear and take a dial indicator back-lash reading.

                              Next, you'll need to build yourself a copy of my prop shaft bearing carrier tool.



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                              The puller tool will allow you to remove the prop shaft and bearing carrier as a unit.

                              Since your vertical shaft has sheared off, you'll need to be creative and find a way to hold the remaining portion of the shaft while you remove the drive gear nut (SEQ # 28 below).
                              You will need to un-fold the locking washer.






                              You will need to find a good Volvo Penta vertical shaft p/n 854612


                              When re-assembling, you will once again press down on the shaft, and will check the back-lash dimension.
                              You may need to adjust the shim value at the bearing in order to achieve the same back-lash that you previously measured.

                              Once the entire unit is re-installed up and into the Intermediate housing, the tapered roller bearing actually controls gear contact!

                              There will be no shim value changes to the driven gear or prop shaft bearing carrier.


                              Use all new OEM O-rings.



                              Lastly, the vertical shaft sheared off for a reason. Could have been due to fatigue, impact, etc.
                              While you have things apart, look closely at the two gears for any signs of impact damage, chipped gear teeth, etc.

                              If the gears are damaged, it becomes cost ineffective to buy near gears/bearings, in which case you start looking for a good used AQ series 1.61:1 lower unit (if V-8 engine).
                              If this becomes the case, there will be a critical shimming process involved.


                              Lower gear unit candidates are:

                              280, 285, 290, SP, SP-C, SP-C1 etc.
                              The AQ series Duo Prop is also a candidate.


                              .
                              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                              Comment

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