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POUR A BOTTLE OF SEAFOAM INTO A NON-RUNNING 5.8L FOUR BARREL....

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    POUR A BOTTLE OF SEAFOAM INTO A NON-RUNNING 5.8L FOUR BARREL....

    Soooooo... What would happen if you poured an entire bottle of Seafoam into the throat of a 4 barrel carburetor on a 5.8L OMC....Without out it running.... Asking for a Friend ;-) Wouldn't it just drain into the cylinder and then be pushed out on the exhaust stroke?

    #2
    I would pull the plugs and let the liquid exit while cranking the motor.
    If you crank with liquid in the cylinder you can bend a connecting rod due to hydrolock
    Present Boat- 2018 VR5 4.5/200hp Mercruiser
    Last Boat- 1998 Capri 1950CL 3.0 Mercruiser

    Comment


      #3
      I’d do as vr suggested. The sea foam additive isn’t going to do any good being used that way.
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #4
        Waste of time and money. Seafoam doesn't work that way, and in my opinion doesn't really work at all. Is the engine locked up and your trying to free cylinders or stuck rings? I would pull the plugs and with a turkey baster, fill them with penetrol or PB Blaster or Marvel Mystery Oil and let it sit for a few days.
        . . .It places the lotion in the Basket. . .and that basket happens to be in a 1987 Bayliner 3870 w/ Hino 175's

        Comment


          #5
          It will not go out the exhaust without it first going through a compression cycle...when it does it will try to compress the liquid and it will break something...connecting rod, head gasket, etc...

          Pull the plugs and then engage the starter...when you are absolutely sure all the liquid has been pushed out of the cylinder, only then should you put the pugs back in...
          1988 3888
          Twin Cummins 6BT's 210hp

          Comment


            #6
            You have received great answered, but I am curious as to why is he wanting to do this?
            What is his goal?
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              One more thought not yet mentioned:

              A true Ford 5.8L Marine engine will be equipped with a dual plane intake manifold.
              Each intake plane supplies fuel/air to 4 cylinders.
              Although I do not believe that there is anything to gain by pouring a bottle of Sea Foam into a static 5.8L engine, and that there are more risks than benefits...... if he is Hell Bent on doing this, he needs to introduce the Sea Foam equally into each plane.
              Now when he cranks the engine over, he can hydro-lock more cylinders and bend more connecting rods.

              Ok.... that was sarcastic, but I said it to further make the point.




              .
              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


              • HADESWRAITH
                HADESWRAITH commented
                Editing a comment
                It's OK, it is the actions of a desperate man... (I am at a loss, see my real post as mentioned above) But you bring up a good point. Can you explain the "Double Plane"?? Sometimes I do smell SeaFoam after I try to crank it... Which is why I asked the question.. But before I put the carb back on I looked in the intake and the bottom was dry.... Are you saying there is another bottom layer? It really appears as though the Sea Foam never made it to the cylinders... I have cranked and changed plugs 50 times since then... Never did it act like it was "locking up"... Your Sarcasm may be on to something.... I am sarcastic as well, seee sometimes it is beneficial ;-) I like to be a learning experience for others..haha..

              #8
              Folks you need to see his other thread, don't think this is a good idea either nor will it help his issue.

              https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...-spark-no-bang
              1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

              Mike

              Comment


                #9
                OK, Bounty may have just busted this wide open... What if the SeaFoam is just sitting in the intake manifold.... And when I try to start there isn't enough suction pressure to draw the liquid into the cylinders.... But also, not allowing the proper air fuel mixture to enter the cylinders either????.... Am I grasping at straws here?? Should I pull the intake manifold again? To clarify, I am an IDIOT... I have used SeaFoam before to winterize while the engine was running.... My HOPE was that since the engine has not run n 3 years the Seafoam would seap in and lubricate everything for the initial start... Good initiative, bad judgement....

                Comment


                  #10
                  .............................
                  It's OK, it is the actions of a desperate man... (I am at a loss, see my real post as mentioned above) But you bring up a good point. Can you explain the "Double Plane"??
                  It's actually called a "dual plane" and has to do with the intake runners and how they connect to the main carburetor plenum.

                  Here's an example of a SBC dual plane intake manifold.
                  Note that cylinder runners 2, 3, 5 and 8 are separated from runners 1, 4, 6 and 7, and that they come in to the higher elevation plane.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Sometimes I do smell SeaFoam after I try to crank it... Which is why I asked the question.. But before I put the carb back on I looked in the intake and the bottom was dry.... Are you saying there is another bottom layer? It really appears as though the Sea Foam never made it to the cylinders... I have cranked and changed plugs 50 times since then... Never did it act like it was "locking up"...
                  By chance are YOU the other person, as in> ( "Asking for a Friend ;-) " ) ????

                  Your Sarcasm may be on to something.... I am sarcastic as well, seee sometimes it is beneficial ;-) I like to be a learning experience for others..haha..

                  Constructive sarcasm can be a good thing when used among friendly people.
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                  • HADESWRAITH
                    HADESWRAITH commented
                    Editing a comment
                    OK, mine isn't like this. Mine is common. It is a 89 OMC 5.8L Cobra....

                  #11
                  .............
                  Originally posted by HADESWRAITH View Post
                  OK, Bounty may have just busted this wide open... What if the SeaFoam is just sitting in the intake manifold....
                  Highly unlikely.

                  And when I try to start there isn't enough suction pressure to draw the liquid into the cylinders....
                  Gravity would have pulled in down and in by now.

                  But also, not allowing the proper air fuel mixture to enter the cylinders either????....
                  A few good crankshaft revolutions (if it did not lock up) would have gotten rid of this.

                  Am I grasping at straws here?? Should I pull the intake manifold again?
                  NO! There is no need to.

                  To clarify, I am an IDIOT... I have used SeaFoam before to winterize while the engine was running....
                  That was your attempt at Fogging?
                  When you are ready to winterize this engine next Fall, let me know.... I'll explain how to properly Fog a carbureted engine.


                  My HOPE was that since the engine has not run n 3 years the Seafoam would seap in and lubricate everything for the initial start... Good initiative, bad judgement....
                  Do to the V engine cylinders being angled, adding oil to each cylinder is rather counter-productive.
                  Gravity pulls the oil to the low side of the piston decks, causing it to "pool" around the lower ring landings, and eventually drain down past the piston rings.

                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                  • HADESWRAITH
                    HADESWRAITH commented
                    Editing a comment
                    So the crank shaft revolutions "getting rid of" the sea foam..... I figured it exited on the exhaust stroke, leaked past the piston rings, and some ended up in the oil (at that time was mystery oil, and has been changed since then) and the rest is sitting in the risers somewhere.....no liquid has ever exited the exhaust.....that I have seen.....

                  • HADESWRAITH
                    HADESWRAITH commented
                    Editing a comment
                    To Be clear... When I put the SeaFoam in the intake, it sat for AT LEAST a week before I tried turning the engine over again.... A buddy of mine said it has probably all evaporated by now....But I swear I can still smell it after a crank...it could be the residual mystery oil I guess....NOTE: I did try starting fluid directly into the intake, no carb, and still NO FIRE.

                  • 2850Bounty
                    2850Bounty commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Dang it..... I meant to say "Due" to the V engine cylinders being angled, adding oil to .......................

                  #12
                  Ok...…..boat was sitting for a few years...……….dumped in seafoam over a week ago...…………..recently cranked/no fire even with starting fluid...…….

                  Investigate spark: pull plugs---are they fouled?
                  carefully test for spark by one of many methods seen on YouTube (many car videos exist that apply to our boats)

                  It sounds like checking the ignition system would be the next step.

                  (cycle kill switch too)
                  Present Boat- 2018 VR5 4.5/200hp Mercruiser
                  Last Boat- 1998 Capri 1950CL 3.0 Mercruiser

                  Comment


                  • HADESWRAITH
                    HADESWRAITH commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Brand new plugs... And they are the right plugs... I had another set that I wasn't 100% positive about, so I swapped them, like everything else. They are brand new, and so are the wires, and coil...

                  #13
                  Originally posted by Nauti_Mike View Post
                  Folks you need to see his other thread, don't think this is a good idea either nor will it help his issue.

                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...-spark-no-bang
                  Agree Mike
                  His issue is really a no start issue most likely ignition system related. I’m not sure if he’s confirmed correct timing ,verified the firing order, or tried to hot wire this engine (bypassing the home made shift assist stuff) temporarily to se if she’ll fire.
                  Example: just because the rotor points towards the number one cylinder doesn’t mean the firing order is correct, not to mention the possibility of the distributor being clocked in differently during its installation (intake was removed).
                  Dave
                  Edmonds, WA
                  "THE FIX"
                  '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                  (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                  The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                  Misc. projects thread
                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                  Comment


                  • HADESWRAITH
                    HADESWRAITH commented
                    Editing a comment
                    About to go out and recheck timing.... Firing order is correct (See pic of plug wires on distributor #'s represent cylinders) Intake Manifold was removed, but Distributor was NOT pulled out...

                  #14

                  Comment


                    #15
                    Keep in mind that the 335 series Ford engine's #1 cylinder is at the Forward most Starboard side........... just opposite of the GM SBC !
                    In other words, as you are looking at the front of the engine, the #1 cylinder will be to your left (Starboard side) and will be the closest cylinder to you .

                    Ford also numbers their cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4 on the Stdb bank (passenger side in a car/truck), and 5, 6, 7, 8 on the Port side bank (drivers side in a car/truck).
                    Again, very different from the GM SBC!

                    This is important to know when indexing the distributor and/or spark plug cables.



                    And for God's Sake..... can we somehow merge the OP's two threads together........ or at least ask the OP choose one of the other, and then we all stick with that one thread?

                    It's getting a bit ridiculous and repetitive going back and forth between these two threads.


                    ************************************************** **************

                    Here's my list of new and/or redundant questions:
                    1. Are you clear on the cylinder numbering... not only where #1 is, but also the order in which each cylinder is located within the cylinder block?
                    2. Is the distributor indexed correctly?
                    3. Is the distributor cap indexed correctly for each spark plug cable as per the Ford 5.8L firing order?
                    4. When @ #1 TDC on the Compression Stroke, where is the rotor aiming.... is it aiming towards the #1 cable tower within the cap?
                    5. Are you following the firing order in the CCW direction? (according to your picture, you are!)
                    6. Are you certain that each spark plug cable is connected to the correct cylinder?
                    7. Is the internal center cap post (for the high tension lead) making good contact with the rotor?
                    8. Is the rotor fully and correctly indexed to the distributor shaft ?
                    9. Is the rotor correct for the distributor?
                    10. What color spark are you seeing while testing..... yellow, white, white-ish blue????
                    11. Are the spark plugs clean?
                    12. Are the spark plugs gapped correctly for your ignition system's secondary voltage? (smaller gap for std system......, larger gap for HEI only)
                    13. Are the spark plugs "fuel wet" after a few starting attempts?
                    14. While I would NOT suggest using ether, can you get it to pop when a small amount of fuel is squirted into the primary throttle bores?
                    15. Is the starter motor spinning the crankshaft fast enough for the engine to fire off?



                    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                    Comment


                    • builderdude
                      builderdude commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Yep, two threads regarding basically the same issue, gets a bit conflicted
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