Adding Closed Cooling System - Questions on How-gctid350308

[Guest]

I have a 3 .0 ltr 2001 Capri Classic 1950 bowrider, need advise on adding a closed cooling system, will I need to change outdrive? Prop?

[Guest]

Your drive and prop are unaffected by your cooling system. You are in fresh water, so moving to a closed cooling system does not involve dealing with crystallized salts. Econo Kool makes a reasonably priced kit. You should be able to do it for well under a boat buck in parts.

[2850Bounty]

2001 to end of 2011 season is approximately 10 years of RWC engine use.

While you're not in ocean water, you will still have an amount of rust scale that may be a potential issue with the Heat Exchanger's tube bundle. Perhaps not immediately, but down the road.

Dislodged rust scale that eventually builds up around the tube bundle (the Ethylene Glycol side) is what can cause the issue! Sort of like the issues we can have with a car/truck radiator.

I would suggest flushing the cooling system, and then install your new H/E system.

Be sure to mount the E/G coolant recovery reservoir at the correct elevation.

Do the run in, bleed any air and check the coolant level.

I'd then suggest that after XX amount of run time (lets say 40 hours) you drain and capture the antifreeze coolant, remove the H/E, add hot water to the E/G side, and then shake it up real well, and then dump this water into a clean white bucket and see what you get!

If no excessive rust scale, button her back up and have fun.

If you see enough rust scale to concern you, repeat this in another 50 hours run time.

If at 50 she's clean, I doubt that you'll have any trouble.

If the coolant PH is OK, it can be filtered through a cloth or ??? and reused for the first 1 or 2 go-a-arounds.

Change it after XX hours.

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[Guest]

sikirica98 wrote:
I have a 3 .0 ltr 2001 Capri Classic 1950 bowrider, need advise on adding a closed cooling system, will I need to change outdrive? Prop?

I will be looking to use the boat in the Sarasota Bay and the gulf waters off of Sarasota and Anna Marie Island, so I will be in salt water does this change things?

[2850Bounty]

It will not change anything regarding the Closed Cooling System installation, but will change things to your routine flushing and/or maintenance schedule.

It will also become more important to routinely change the pencil anode in the H/E (heat exchanger).

Most of us will change or at least look at these twice or more per season when in salt water.

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[Guest]

You'll want to flush the engine as others have said, where you are relocating to sounds like a closed system would be a good idea.

These are both good companies that make these kits:

http://www.michiganmotorz.com/freshw...ines-p-90.html

Seakamp

http://www.go2marine.com/product/892...-lx-mc333.html

San Juan

Might give seakamp a call and see if they still offer the full system with the "closed" riser block. This cools the manifold with anti-freeze in addition to the block and only the exhaust elbow sees saltwater.

[2850Bounty]

For the GM 3.0L in line 4, I think that he's probably looking at something like these.









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