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Lower shift cable change-gctid350249

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    Lower shift cable change-gctid350249

    Hi all

    Doing some much needed maintenance, about to renew the bellows and gimbal bearing, read and watched all i can for usefull tips.

    When i pull out the old lower shift cable, should i attach a new cable to the old cable inside and pull it through thus leaving it in the correct place?

    I have a 2452 which has limited access down the back of the engine and am worrried that if i just pull the cable i might have issues pushing the new one through and into the correct position.

    Special tools? Managed to buy a shift cable socket from california and getting it shipped over, reckon i will be able to manage without an expansion tool. The bellows ring tool, i will make from two pieces of 1/2" ply ( good tip there thanks), the only thing i'm short of is the engine alignment tool, silly price here in the UK and the shipping from the USA is high! Anyone in the UK willing to hire?

    Anyone know the dimensions of the tool as i might be able to get it turned at an engineering shop etc?



    I don't have that drive, so can't help with the cable. I do have a combo merc/omc engine align tool I can measure up for you probably tomorrow night.



      Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.


        Brilliant good info thank you very much, anyone put a new shift cable through the transom and how easy is it on the dark side.


          I think you have a good idea on using the old shift cable to route the new one. You don't want it to kink, and even a quick bend can result in some tension which will activate the shift interrupt switch, killing the engine going into forward or reverse. Obviously you don't want that!!!

          The hardest thing in your list by far is the gimbal bearing removal (It can be hard, at least). Check out this thread on tools for removing it (If you're not a member at iboats I'd recommend you join...really good info there as well as here):

          Homemade tools:

          I think the motor is a 1996 DT150 2 stroke. It feels like it's popping out of gear at 1800 rpm then quickly climbs to 2800 rpm or higher if you let it. Quickly reduce gas motor drops below 1800 rpm and prop continues to push the boat. Carb butterfly's only open about 25%. Is this a limp home...

          I use something similar to the gimbal puller on the list, only I used a drilled 4x4 instead of the flat bar plate (easier on the bell housing), and I have a professional expandable tip for grabbing the bearing. Same idea though.

          I also used a lathe and a router to make a gimbal bearing install tool from a 4x4 (Machined the end of the 4x4). It's a bit tricky to make, but it worked great. You just have to scoop out the wood to match the convex bevel in the bearing/carrier. Basically, whatever will drive it straight in will work.

          Or, of course you could just trailer the boat to a marine shop to do it quick and painlesssly. Ha.



            On the above thread, look under 'more gimbal bearing puller ideas'. It has good pics, etc.



              Thanks Chay great link, I've managed to lend a puller, the bearing install I was gonna see if I can use the old bearing as a drift somehow, as long as she starts going in straight, also read about using the alignment tool to help keep it straight, but will have to see. If the ujoimt was easier to take apart I would have used the drive shaft as an alignment tool.

              Thanks again