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GUEST BATTERY SELECTOR WIRING PROBLEM

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    GUEST BATTERY SELECTOR WIRING PROBLEM

    I have a 97 2855. I'm the 2nd owner so I assume anything I have not done to the boat is probably the way it was built since the original owner told me he did not do any modifications. I kept the boat in the water connected to shore power during the boating season from 2004 thru 2017 when it was moved to Florida. In 2018 I put the boat into a dry stack marina in Florida where it has been ever since. The battery's do not get charged by the on board charger in the dry stack since it is never plugged in to shore power. The only charge they get is when the boat is running. Recently I noticed if I tried to start on the #2 setting on the Guest battery selector the starter just clicked like the battery was down. It started fine on BOTH and #1. I replaced what I though was the #2 battery and got the same result. I thought maybe something happened in the selector switch so I pulled it off the bulkhead to check the connections. What I discovered was the terminal post behind #2 setting was connected to the starter cable. The BOTH terminal post was connected to the #2 battery. The #1 terminal post was connected to the #1 battery. This seems wrong to me but I don't have installation instructions for the switch. I am assuming it was installed like this at the factory or maybe as add on at the dealer that sold the boat. If anyone has an installation guide for this switch could you take a picture of the proper connections and post it here or email it to me at bcohen62@hotmail.com. I don't know how this could have ever started on the #2 setting. I think the correct connection should be the starter cable on the BOTH post and the battery's connected to #1 and #2. I Don't want to change anything until I can see a wiring diagram for this switch.

    #2
    Someone reversed the cables in the past. You are correct that the terminal marked "Both" should go to the starter. How is your battery charger hooked up? That should be checked also.
    Gibraltar, Mi.
    1986- 3870- Hino 175's - Just purchased May ,2017
    34' Tollycraft- sold
    88 26' Shamrock/ Diesel
    14' Zodiac Bay Runner

    Comment


    • dukhuntr
      dukhuntr commented
      Editing a comment
      good idea.

    #3
    Taking these one at a time.

    Originally posted by dukhuntr View Post
    I have a 97 2855. I'm the 2nd owner so I assume anything I have not done to the boat is probably the way it was built since the original owner told me he did not do any modifications. I kept the boat in the water connected to shore power during the boating season from 2004 thru 2017 when it was moved to Florida. In 2018 I put the boat into a dry stack marina in Florida where it has been ever since. The battery's do not get charged by the on board charger in the dry stack since it is never plugged in to shore power. The only charge they get is when the boat is running. Recently I noticed if I tried to start on the #2 setting on the Guest battery selector the starter just clicked like the battery was down. It started fine on BOTH and #1.
    Typically, #1 will be your cranking battery bank, and #2 will be your house load battery bank.
    It's possible that your #2 bank has gone bad, or you have what we call a parasitic drain on #2.



    I replaced what I though was the #2 battery and got the same result.
    OK.... that should have eliminated #2 batt bank as being bad.

    I thought maybe something happened in the selector switch so I pulled it off the bulkhead to check the connections. What I discovered was the terminal post behind #2 setting was connected to the starter cable.
    That is incorrect! The cable from the starter motor will connect to the "common" post of the MBSS.
    When cabled this way, either battery bank can be selected to power all on board.


    The BOTH terminal post was connected to the #2 battery.
    There should be NO Both post.
    An MBSS (main battery selector switch) will offer three posts...... one "common", one #1 and one #2.


    NOTE: this schematic was draw up for a slightly different purpose and shows circuits that may not pertain to your boat's wiring.
    The battery cables and MBSS will be correct for you!
    The House and Accessory circuit panel can get it's power from the "common" post, or from the "common" cable starter motor connection.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Eric Knox schematic.jpg
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Size:	153.2 KB
ID:	501286



    The #1 terminal post was connected to the #1 battery.
    That would be your starting or cranking batt bank!

    This seems wrong to me but I don't have installation instructions for the switch. I am assuming it was installed like this at the factory or maybe as add on at the dealer that sold the boat.
    I would pay NO attention to what the factory did or what the dealer did. There are much better ways to cable your MBSS than what the factory or the dealer had done.

    If anyone has an installation guide for this switch could you take a picture of the proper connections and post it here or email it to me at bcohen62@hotmail.com. I don't know how this could have ever started on the #2 setting. I think the correct connection should be the starter cable on the BOTH post and the battery's connected to #1 and #2.
    Again..... if you have a standard MBSS, there is no Both post, only a BOTH/ALL selection.
    Your MBSS will have a "common" terminal, a #1 terminal and a #2 terminal .


    I Don't want to change anything until I can see a wiring diagram for this switch.
    Unless you are wanting a more complicated system that would involve auto switching, etc........., my above schematic is tried and proven.

    Also note that ONLY battery cables are making a direct battery connection.
    Any accessory items can be powered via an auxiliary panel.
    Note how the on-board charger makes it's connection to each batt bank.

    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Comment


    • dukhuntr
      dukhuntr commented
      Editing a comment
      I will have to see how the on board charger connects. I'm guessing they go directly to the battery's. Only battery cables and starter cable are connected on the back of the switch.

    • dukhuntr
      dukhuntr commented
      Editing a comment
      When I returned to the marina I checked the wiring on the switch. and it was correct. I had also taken the battery home with me on the previous visit to put it on the charger so I knew it was up. When I tried to start on #2 still same result, click on the starter and then nothing. I thought maybe the switch had went bad. It is closed up so you can't see the internal connections so I went and purchase a new switch and installed it and still got the same result. The wiring is strait forward. A cable from the both terminal to the starter. Boat will crank on #1 setting so I know that starter cable is good. Positive cable on both battery's go directly to the switch. Both battery's have separate ground cables that go directly to the block. I checked both ground cables for tightness and they are tight. I did not remove and inspect either of them.
      I'm going back to the marina and test the voltage at the switch from both battery's. I'm going to also loosen the ground on the block for #2 and check it for corrosion. I'm wondering if the positive cable for #2 could have failed so I will inspect it closely. I don't have any other ideas beyond checking the ground and the cable on #2. There no other switches the power passes thru from the battery to the starter.

    #4
    You're on the right track. At this point there has to be corrosion either in the pos cable from #2 bat to switch or the ground from #2 to the block.
    Tony Bacon,
    Washougal, WA
    Caspian
    1997 3788 Twin Cummins 250hp

    Comment


      #5
      As Rick stated earlier: there is no “both” lug on a MBSS, it is a “common” lug. There is only a switch selection for “both” that will connect both bank 1 & 2 to the common lug. Verify your cabling is not corroded and is connected properly.
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

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