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    hydrolock!!



    Hello guys hoping you can help me as this boat bayliner ciera 2455 1989 has already cost way to much sailed it 3 times the third time one exhaust hose cracked so changed it and got the manifold and knee sandblasted because i guessed it wasent getting water in that side but just keeps finding problems i have had the boat on land for the winter now i have had it started 3 times but when tried to start it a week later the starter made a horrible sound like metal grinding i have then searched the internet for answers and found this thing called hydrolock i was thinking no way as it has been started with water from hoseclamp on land but the description fit so i removed the the exhaust knee or risers and behold water in the manifold more in one side than the other so my question is what now is the engine destroyed i need new knee and manifolds as theese are rustet very badly but is it possible to get the water out and save the engine and if not can you replace it to maybe a mercruiser or something else as it is almost impossible to find an omc 5.7 v8 in denmark hope you can help im getting so frustratet

    #2
    ..........................
    Originally posted by nwo2012 View Post

    Hello guys hoping you can help me as this boat bayliner ciera 2455 1989 has already cost way too much. sailed it 3 times the third time one exhaust hose cracked so changed it and got the manifold and knee sandblasted
    That would be an exhaust "elbow".

    because i guessed it wasent getting water in that side but just keeps finding problems i have had the boat on land for the winter now i have had it started 3 times but when tried to start it a week later the starter made a horrible sound like metal grinding i have then searched the internet for answers and found this thing called hydrolock i was thinking no way as it has been started with water from hoseclamp on land but the description fit so i removed the the exhaust knee or risers (Elbow) and behold water in the manifold more in one side than the other so my question is what now is the engine destroyed i need new elbows and manifolds as theese are rustet very badly but is it possible to get the water out and save the engine
    Pull all of the spark plugs.
    Remove the seawater pump impeller and turn the engine over.
    Reinstall the spark plugs and get it started up ASAP.

    Without water, you can run the engine for 15 to 20 seconds without any issues.
    Just get the water out of the cylinders ASAP!

    Check the engine oil for any signs of water.


    and if not can you replace it to maybe a mercruiser or something else as it is almost impossible to find an omc 5.7 v8 in denmark hope you can help im getting so frustratet
    If you end up replacing the engine/stern drive.......... go with Volvo Penta!
    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Comment


      #3
      Assuming you have an '89 OMC Cobra, I'd first try to do what Rick advised, get the water out, replace the exhaust system and change the oil as many times as it takes to get the oil clean and not milky. In salt water, cast iron exhaust lasts 5-7 years, depending on salinity. I changed my exhaust every 6 years and never had water in the engine from the exhaust. I did have 2 blown head gaskets because of overheating, and had to do the multiple oil changes to get all the water out.
      Which engine do you have? If it is the Ford 460 (7.5 liter) the exhaust parts are hard to find, if you can find them at all. The GM 5.7 is easy to find exhaust parts for. They are still out there in the aftermarket (Barr is a good brand here in the US).
      Once the sealing surfaces between the manifold and elbow get rusted and pitted, the chances are that the elbow to manifold gasket will not seal. At that point replacement is the best option. Some have had succes with having a machine shop machine the sealing surfaces flat but the elbow or manifold can still leak and put water into cylinders.
      On my OMC I had the one piece batwing exhaust that came with the V6 models from '85-->;'90 or so. Since they became no longer available some years ago I converted to the center riser style exhaust used on later OMCs and Volvos. I had to use V/P aluminum 90* exhaust pipes & hoses that adapt the 4" elbow exits to the 3.5" OMC exhaust Y pipe. Then I was able to use the BARR aftermarket 2 piece exhaust which is the same as OMC and Volvo both used in the V-6 engines, the V-8 is similar. I mention this because if you have log style manifolds you may have to do the same thing if you can't get the log style replacements.
      Pics: 1st pic shows what those sealing surfaces look like new....second pic shows the center riser style exhaust conversion on the 4.3....

      http://www.barrmarine.net/omc.html

      here's a link to BARR exhaust for OMCs.....
      Attached Files
      88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
      98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
      07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

      Long Island Sound Region

      Comment


        #4
        You might need to be careful using the hose with full on water if the engine is not running...it is possible that the exiting water could back up into the exhaust ports and into the cylinders. Start the engine first and then turn on the water. This may have been the source of water in your cylinders.

        Clear out your cylinders per the posts above and make sure your oil does not contain water. It couldn't hurt to do a compression test to make sure cylinders are sealing properly.
        1988 3888
        Twin Cummins 6BT's 210hp

        Comment


          #5
          Punctuation is your friend.
          Jeff & Tara
          (And Ginger too)
          Lake Havasu City, AZ

          2000 Bayliner 3388
          "GetAway"
          Cummins 4bta 250s

          In memory of Shadow, the best boat dog ever. Rest in peace, girl. July 2, 2010

          Comment


            #6
            Jeff, note his location.
            Started boating 1955
            Number of boats owned 32
            Bayliners
            2655
            2755
            2850
            3870 presently owned
            Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Jeffw View Post
              Punctuation is your friend.
              I have a few extra, and would be glad to donate them.


              ..........................................

              ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, '''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''

              ?????????????????????

              !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

              $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #8
                I feel your pain, been there, done it.....cost me last summer, arg. My 2452 is gone, and so are my headaches with her. A beautiful boat, but for me, just too much STUFF for my simple needs.

                Good luck!

                Comment


                  #9
                  thank you guys for the replies it dosent appear to be hydro locked that a relief but the starter was broken but now i have another issue hoping you can help me with my problem i had a problem with it not starting turns out the starter had craked of so i replaced the starter with a brand new one changed all the spark plugs and i tried to start it up it started just fine and put it in neutral and ran for 1 minute or 2 and shut it off and was happy that it worked i then proceeded with other stuff on the boat then i wanted to start it again but now it wont start it cranks fine and sounds like it wants to start but only with the trottle on full power and me pumping it it sounds like its running but with me cranking the starter all the time so its actally the starter running the motor it just dies right away it has spark and it have just taken off both sides of the cabureator they are full off gas so im guessing its gets gas i am all out of ideas as to what the problems is so any input is appreciated i have all the forums i could think of but still no luck and i am wondering why it started fine right after changing the starter mortor the gauges also showes 13 volts but i have to mention when cranking the volt gauges go to 0 but its still cranking fine

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Sounds like it’s flooded. Carburetor may need float level adjustment.
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                    • nwo2012
                      nwo2012 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      how do i ajust those i know where the pins are and can this just happen just like that?

                    #11
                    Debris in older fuel systems can often become an issue causing a stuck open float valve. What carb do you have?
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                    • nwo2012
                      nwo2012 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      holley carbureator but it gets plenty of fuel into to the two chambers i tried emty them and after crankink they are full againg i also tried removing both sides seems the floats are working fine and manuel pump squirts gas in at the top i just dont get why it fired right up the first time when i changed the starter motor alsom the volt gauges goes from 13 volts to 0 when cranking it and the oil pressure gauge goes to 40 and the more i crank it it rises to 70 or 80 ont know if thats normal

                    #12
                    Yes, there will always be fuel in the float bowls however It’s crucial the float levels are set at a certain height. A malfunctioning float valve will cause the issues your describing. Not saying it is the issue but warrants looking into. Oil pressure reading will increase the more the engine is “cranked” but your readings do seem a bit excessive for “normal”. What weight oil is in the engine?
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                    • nwo2012
                      nwo2012 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      i honestly dont know i bought the boat and only sailed it 3 times before one problem after another started to appear and now it sits on land but i looked at some videoes and it fills like in the videoes so when i screw the side screw out there very little gas comming out i would say almost nothing but they calibratet the needle with the engine on at thats hard when i cant fire it up what about the voltage dropping to 0 when cranking dosent that seem weird?

                    #13
                    float should actually be level with the edge of the bowl, and blow thru the inlet hole to make sure the needle valve is holding.
                    Attached Files
                    88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                    98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                    07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                    Long Island Sound Region

                    Comment


                    • nwo2012
                      nwo2012 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      my bowl is not like yours it has no spring an a much longer float and the needle sits in the middle i will take some pictures tomorrow and make a video so you can hear how it sounds when its at full throttle

                    #14
                    Center hung float on a Holley with fuel level sight hole may not be a marine carburetor. Regardless if she’s not dripping excessive fuel the problem could be something els. Have you verified your getting spark at the plugs? Has the kill switch been accidentally activated?
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                    • nwo2012
                      nwo2012 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      i have not ajustet the float i have checked the coil its reading is okay i have tried disable the esa switch still nothing fires up the kill switch was disabeled when i bought it and it have run before so thats not the issues

                    #15
                    Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                    Center hung float on a Holley with fuel level sight hole may not be a marine carburetor.
                    Yes, unless things have changed...... to the best of my knowledge, the Holley with the peep-sight holes and top needle/seat adjustments are Automotive, and are not Marine approved.

                    Apparently there is a risk of the peep sight plug coming loose and/or the upper locking nut backing off.
                    What a bummer...... these are the easiest and most accurate to adjust.


                    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                    Comment

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