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Sinking -No Bail - Ciera 2252

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  • Quetz
    started a topic Sinking -No Bail - Ciera 2252

    Sinking -No Bail - Ciera 2252

    I have a 2002 Bayliner 2252 with a 5.0 merc. I have a couple of issues:

    1) I de-winterized the boat and it ran great. I put the earmuffs on it and it ran for longer that 30 minutes and it was moving water perfectly. I put it in the river and water started pouring into the bilge at such a rate that I barely got back to the dock (15 min total). The water got as high as the bottom of the engine. I took it home and ran it again with the earmuffs and did not get water intrusion, so it's obviously not coming from the engine. Where are obvious water intrusions on this model boat? I visibly inspected the Bellas and they don't seem torn, but then again I'm not sure what I'm looking at.

    2) during this Fiasco the rear bilge pump did not kick in. Is there a trick to getting down that low and changing the bilge pump? It looks nearly impossible to get to. Could it be a fuse or something simple on the bilge pump?

    3) The gas guague is not working. Is it fused?

    this is a new boat to me this season so any help will be greatly appreciated!!

    cheers

  • builderdude
    replied
    I had multiple areas around the base of a few studs and an area where the seal rides where I aggressively ground out questionable material do to corrosion. I then cleaned and filled those areas with JB weld epoxy, sanded, primed & painted.

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  • Quetz
    replied
    You can see the inside channel for the seal is deformed from the metal reactions. It should still make a seal but still.

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  • Quetz
    replied
    I was thinking the same thing. I got the non rusted ones (two of them) off, but the other ones are going to snap. I will leave them with PB Blaster overnight and heat them tomorrow and give it a tug. If they won't come lose or snap i will find a machine shop.

    New ones ar many thousands and used ones are still a couple of thousand on Ebay. I don't want to have to get a new/used one if i can salvage this one. Do you guys think this metal chemical infusion will be an issue if i flatten it? (Its around the worst stud)

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  • builderdude
    replied
    Originally posted by Quetz View Post
    It looks like a few them have about half of the normal girth and are clearly deteriorated. I am afraid after doing all this work I will have to somehow pull it off again if a couple the of them give way and starts leaking again. Those skinny ones are likely to snap then i will have to extract them.
    Sorry didn't catch that, just saw they were rusty.

    Originally posted by Nauti_Mike View Post
    I would not feel comfortable using those studs either. PB Blaster and heat but I bet at least one will snap. You may want to price around for a used one that’s in better shape or take it to a machine shop and pay them to remove the studs.
    If a machine shop can remove and re install new ones that’d be the way to go for sure.

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  • Nauti_Mike
    replied
    I would not feel comfortable using those studs either. PB Blaster and heat but I bet at least one will snap. You may want to price around for a used one that’s in better shape or take it to a machine shop and pay them to remove the studs.

    Leave a comment:


  • Quetz
    replied
    It looks like a few them have about half of the normal girth and are clearly deteriorated. I am afraid after doing all this work I will have to somehow pull it off again if a couple the of them give way and starts leaking again. Those skinny ones are likely to snap then i will have to extract them.

    Leave a comment:


  • builderdude
    replied
    Mine didn’t look any different. The studs in the transom housing are threaded in however they’ll likely be seized into the housing. I’d recommend you plan to use them. Clean them up with a wire wheel and prime.

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  • Quetz
    replied

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  • Quetz
    replied
    I finally got back to working on the boat and the issue now seems evident after struggling to get the assembly housing off. The outdrive was obviously hit and tweaked the housing, which broke the seal and it had been leaking for a long time.

    I would like to change all the through bolts, Do they come off the assembly and do they sell them individually?

    Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • Floaty_Prime
    commented on 's reply
    Sikaflex is good stuff.

  • Floaty_Prime
    commented on 's reply
    There are some great YouTube videos on painting the out drive. Most of the people I've seen go to a farm or heavy equipment store and get a black 2 part epoxy enamel. I sand barred my boat last hear and scuffed the paint on my lower so I'll be painting mine this summer as well. Fortunately I was only traveling about 10 mph and it was very soft sand. Just enough to get the lower unit.

  • builderdude
    replied
    You need a ridged flat surface (within 1/16 or .0625) around the keyhole when your done. You’ve already opened up the transom from the interior so I’d continue with your choice of clamping in the core using coosa board.

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  • builderdude
    commented on 's reply
    Same as the 5200 we use

  • Quetz
    replied
    Has anyone used this stuff. It looks easier than Coosa board or marine plywood. I would just have to build a dam with wax to get it off it looks.

    https://youtu.be/AH9GS9Zy97k

    Leave a comment:

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