Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Sinking -No Bail - Ciera 2252

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Quetz
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • Quetz
    replied
    WTF??? Not the Ypipe!!! So after telling me it was the Ypipe my marina now said ooops its the gimble housing assembly and a blown seal. They misdiagnosed the issue and took the engine and outdrive off to figure it out. Now they are saying I need a new assembly, possible fiberglass work and it's going to cost me between $5,000 and $7,000.

    if they told me it was the assembly could I have simply put Marine sealant County housing and called it a day?
    Should I just ask him to put the boat back together and deal with it myself? Or should I just bite the bullet and pay whatever they are asking as Ransom to get the boat back?

    Leave a comment:


  • dmcb
    replied
    On the plus side you can get at your bilge pump.
    Another way to install a bilge pump is get a long piece of aluminum wide as a bilge pump. Mount the pump to the aluminum and just slide it under the engine and leave it there. You can now get to your bilge pump any time. If your engine is out remove the old pump and mount. If not, just slide it back to the old pump.
    Doug

    Leave a comment:


  • Nauti_Mike
    replied
    Look on line for a new y-pipe and replace it. Yup engine needs to come out.

    Leave a comment:


  • Quetz
    replied
    Ok, so after further digging it has been determined it is the exhayst Y-pipe. Darn!! They are talking me the engine has to come off. I had someone suggest to use J-B Weld if I can get to it, but I'm quite apprehensive of that option. Any ideas? How much should it cost do you think? Where can I get a wishbone for the 2002 Merc 5.0?

    I did get the bilge pump sorted out I just replacing it with a new automatic one.

    Leave a comment:


  • Quetz
    replied
    I can't get within a foot from the bilge pump and I gave up on looking for the leak. I called a mechanic who is coming tomorrow. I will update this thread.

    Leave a comment:


  • pgiconch
    replied
    Regarding your bilge pump, the common pumps Bayliner used were usually installed with a seperate float. The pumps were typically a unit which is removable from the housing. When we purchased our used Bsyliner the rear pump wasnt working. Once i found it -- just below the harmonic balancer -- i was able to reach under there and turn the float shaft. Pump didn't work, but after looking at the fore cabin pump assembly I realized I could turn the top CCW and the pump would come out of the housing. It had burned up prior to purchase. Cut it out from existing connectors and got a new one at local West Marine. Attached the wires, tested OK, and reinstalled it in the housing. I borrowed one of the wife's mirrors and laid it in the bilge just in front of the engine so I could see what I was doing.

    The first pic is my forward bilge pump and float mechanism to give you an idea of what they look like presuming bayliner used the same setup (very common) in your boat. If you notice there is a black button near the discharge outlet. You need to push that in while turning to release the pump from the housing. Second pic is view of pump and float under my engine. I couldn't see mine either until I borrowed the wife's mirror.

    These pumps come in different GPH output rates. Ensure you match what is there, or go bigger if fuse & wiring allow. Don't go smaller GPH.

    Good luck with both problems.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pcpete
    replied
    That’s a good diagnosis try. Unfortunately there are a bunch of light eaters along the way. The path is very crooked and not much to reflect light into, and through the shaft bearing. Here are a couple of links that are for alphas, but bravos are the same configuration. The pictures are representative but the part numbers are to be ignored.

    https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/.../30858/1017/30
    https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/.../30858/1017/50

    Leave a comment:


  • Quetz
    replied
    Ok, I will dig in a little deeper. Tonight I put a very bring light behind the transom to see of I could see light and nothing from inside out or outside in.

    Leave a comment:


  • builderdude
    replied
    Another possible source is the trim connector block area or Y pipe seal. This is an Alpha drive? Mercathode or lower anode area is something to check also.
    With the boat on the hard and the bow up as high as possible fill the bilge with the garden hose and look for leakage from the exterior.

    Leave a comment:


  • builderdude
    commented on 's reply
    Exactly what I’d do

  • Pcpete
    replied
    Good pictures. The lower large hose I’d the exhaust hose and would not be a problem because it connects to that big Y shaped pipe inside. The upper large one is the bellows that is likely the problem. Pulling a drive is really pretty easy if you have some mechanical experience. First, put a chunk of cardboard on the ground and have a roll of those blue paper towels on had; then put the shifter in reverse, okay guys, tell him if I have that wrong and it should be in forward. Next, remove the E clips or nuts at both ends of the tilt rams then slide the aft end off of the stud. At this point you probably want to remove the prop or props. Place a block of wood under the skeg, the part under the prop shaft bulge, so that the drive is just vertical. Now, since it’s your first time, a buddy to help is a good idea. Remove the six nuts one both sides of the upper housing, then shake the unit side to side and it may start to slide off. If not, my next step is to put one of the nuts back on a turn or three, remove the block of wood, then let the unit drop about ten or fifteen degrees a couple of times. Once it starts to move it will come off fairly easily. Rotate the unit on the skeg while the top tips out. Once you see the u-joints, pick it up and set it aside. There is a valve to stop the lube from the reservoir from making a mess.
    If there is water inside the bellows, we’ll go to the next step.

    Leave a comment:


  • vr5200
    replied
    Do have a helper?
    Try using the garden hose and blasting the entire transom area from the outside with plain ole hose water pressure..............like you are trying to find a windshield or T-top leak in a car. Blast other areas if no leaks are found near the transom.
    Your helper can witness the source or someone can hold their phone/camera down low in the engine compartment and take pics or video of the "action" in the bilge. Use your "flash" while taking pics or taking video.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nauti_Mike
    replied
    Since you had the plug in and the bellows look ok from the pictures I would then look at the thru hull for the head. Do you have air conditioning, if so thru hull for that should be looked at as well.

    if nothing is obvious take the boat to the ramp on a week day and just back it in leaving it on the trailer then climb in the engine compartment and see if you can locate the leak.

    Leave a comment:


  • Quetz
    replied
    Here are pics of the bellows and transom setup as a reference.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X