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Sinking -No Bail - Ciera 2252

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    #61
    Originally posted by Quetz View Post
    OK guys thank you so much again. I will bump the Housing off and keep digging.

    As an opinion given what you see, obviously the back plate is cracked and needs replacing, but would you think I should get an entire assembly or could I get away with just replacing the back plate?
    youll need to examine it carefully after its removed. Mine was pretty ugly with corrosion etc. but I was able to clean it up, install new parts and re install, it's been working as it should. Clean and test everything you can while your in the engine bay.

    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    Comment


    • Nauti_Mike
      Nauti_Mike commented
      Editing a comment
      Agree, once removed you'll need to inspect it to determine if it's ok to use.

    #62
    Ok, i will inspect and see. It was working 100% for over 9 years and has a new lower unit so perhaps i luck out on this instance. I spoke with the owner and seeing the damage i believe that a) the damage was a long time in building and b) he did no know about it. He has all maintensnce records and has an airplane so he was very meticulous about getting all the right maintenance done. My theory is that the previous owner hit something 10+ years ago cracking the bottom bolts through holes and the water intrusion started. Through the years water entered and permeated the core but since it was always stored in a boatel in never leaked enough to notice as the bilfe pump would get it out; hence, why the bilge pump burned out. Not having put it in the water more than once in the past 2 years some water evaporated from the core causing it to shrink and creating space, which then allowed more water in making the problem evident. That's what i am going with anyway

    Comment


      #63
      So for now i keep digging . . . .

      1) what is the hull made from? Could the damage continue veyond the transom? How far do i need to dig/cut to get it seaworthy? The damage is in the bottom so i fear the answe?

      2) what kind of paint can i use in refurbishing the outdrive? Do i need to use bottom paint or any metal paibt will do?

      I lucked out and found a band new plate on Ebay for a steal.

      Comment


      • Floaty_Prime
        Floaty_Prime commented
        Editing a comment
        There are some great YouTube videos on painting the out drive. Most of the people I've seen go to a farm or heavy equipment store and get a black 2 part epoxy enamel. I sand barred my boat last hear and scuffed the paint on my lower so I'll be painting mine this summer as well. Fortunately I was only traveling about 10 mph and it was very soft sand. Just enough to get the lower unit.

      #64
      The hull bottom has no core material, it’ll be solid glass. Any bare metal areas of the drive should be sanded, cleaned, then primed with a zinc chromate primer. Then a top coat of the black enamel can be applied.
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #65
        Phew, i thought you were going to tell me the hull had a wood core.

        Thanks for the paint suggestions!@

        Any tricks or suggestion on an easier way to remove the solid parts of the core? The rotted stuff is messy but easy the other solid sections are like rock. I am gnawing at it with a chisel, but its a slow go..

        Comment


          #66
          I had an issue with a shower drain box pump. Similar to the rear bilge pump. The float had quit floating, it was full of water. Pulled it out and found that the float had cracked on the side, maybe due to freezing. Patched the side of the float with some epoxy glue and works fine now, so when testing by lifting the float by hand the pump ran, but it did not float in water!

          Comment


            #67
            About the leak, I had a small leak after launching my 288. A bucketfull of water oozed in every 24 h, the aft bilge pump worked daily. Not good. I drained the bilge with water vacuum, dried with a towel and started a long watch under and behind the engine equipped with wifes mirror and a flashlight. The plug hole was the source. I pulled the boat out yesterday, undid the plug, put some new plastic plumberstuff in the threads, tightened the screws of the plug assembly and coated the lot with marinegrade sika 291i. Leak stopped. I will do a proper fix in the fall and will replace the screws and put sikaflex in the proper places. You guys propably have some other polyurethane based sealing agent in the US, I go with the swiss sikaflex. Polyurethane based stuff needs humidity to get solid, so it continues curing even if submerged!

            Comment


            • builderdude
              builderdude commented
              Editing a comment
              Same as the 5200 we use

            • Floaty_Prime
              Floaty_Prime commented
              Editing a comment
              Sikaflex is good stuff.

            #68
            Has anyone used this stuff. It looks easier than Coosa board or marine plywood. I would just have to build a dam with wax to get it off it looks.

            https://youtu.be/AH9GS9Zy97k

            Comment


              #69
              You need a ridged flat surface (within 1/16 or .0625) around the keyhole when your done. You’ve already opened up the transom from the interior so I’d continue with your choice of clamping in the core using coosa board.
              Dave
              Edmonds, WA
              "THE FIX"
              '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
              (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
              The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
              Misc. projects thread
              https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

              Comment


                #70
                I finally got back to working on the boat and the issue now seems evident after struggling to get the assembly housing off. The outdrive was obviously hit and tweaked the housing, which broke the seal and it had been leaking for a long time.

                I would like to change all the through bolts, Do they come off the assembly and do they sell them individually?

                Cheers

                Comment


                  #71

                  Comment


                    #72
                    Mine didn’t look any different. The studs in the transom housing are threaded in however they’ll likely be seized into the housing. I’d recommend you plan to use them. Clean them up with a wire wheel and prime.
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                      #73
                      It looks like a few them have about half of the normal girth and are clearly deteriorated. I am afraid after doing all this work I will have to somehow pull it off again if a couple the of them give way and starts leaking again. Those skinny ones are likely to snap then i will have to extract them.

                      Comment


                        #74
                        I would not feel comfortable using those studs either. PB Blaster and heat but I bet at least one will snap. You may want to price around for a used one that’s in better shape or take it to a machine shop and pay them to remove the studs.
                        1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                        Mike

                        Comment


                          #75
                          Originally posted by Quetz View Post
                          It looks like a few them have about half of the normal girth and are clearly deteriorated. I am afraid after doing all this work I will have to somehow pull it off again if a couple the of them give way and starts leaking again. Those skinny ones are likely to snap then i will have to extract them.
                          Sorry didn't catch that, just saw they were rusty.

                          Originally posted by Nauti_Mike View Post
                          I would not feel comfortable using those studs either. PB Blaster and heat but I bet at least one will snap. You may want to price around for a used one that’s in better shape or take it to a machine shop and pay them to remove the studs.
                          If a machine shop can remove and re install new ones that’d be the way to go for sure.

                          Dave
                          Edmonds, WA
                          "THE FIX"
                          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                          Misc. projects thread
                          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                          Comment

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