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Sinking -No Bail - Ciera 2252

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  • Quetz
    replied
    I was thinking the same thing. I got the non rusted ones (two of them) off, but the other ones are going to snap. I will leave them with PB Blaster overnight and heat them tomorrow and give it a tug. If they won't come lose or snap i will find a machine shop.

    New ones ar many thousands and used ones are still a couple of thousand on Ebay. I don't want to have to get a new/used one if i can salvage this one. Do you guys think this metal chemical infusion will be an issue if i flatten it? (Its around the worst stud)

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  • builderdude
    replied
    Originally posted by Quetz View Post
    It looks like a few them have about half of the normal girth and are clearly deteriorated. I am afraid after doing all this work I will have to somehow pull it off again if a couple the of them give way and starts leaking again. Those skinny ones are likely to snap then i will have to extract them.
    Sorry didn't catch that, just saw they were rusty.

    Originally posted by Nauti_Mike View Post
    I would not feel comfortable using those studs either. PB Blaster and heat but I bet at least one will snap. You may want to price around for a used one that’s in better shape or take it to a machine shop and pay them to remove the studs.
    If a machine shop can remove and re install new ones that’d be the way to go for sure.

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  • Nauti_Mike
    replied
    I would not feel comfortable using those studs either. PB Blaster and heat but I bet at least one will snap. You may want to price around for a used one that’s in better shape or take it to a machine shop and pay them to remove the studs.

    Leave a comment:


  • Quetz
    replied
    It looks like a few them have about half of the normal girth and are clearly deteriorated. I am afraid after doing all this work I will have to somehow pull it off again if a couple the of them give way and starts leaking again. Those skinny ones are likely to snap then i will have to extract them.

    Leave a comment:


  • builderdude
    replied
    Mine didn’t look any different. The studs in the transom housing are threaded in however they’ll likely be seized into the housing. I’d recommend you plan to use them. Clean them up with a wire wheel and prime.

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  • Quetz
    replied

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  • Quetz
    replied
    I finally got back to working on the boat and the issue now seems evident after struggling to get the assembly housing off. The outdrive was obviously hit and tweaked the housing, which broke the seal and it had been leaking for a long time.

    I would like to change all the through bolts, Do they come off the assembly and do they sell them individually?

    Cheers

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  • Floaty_Prime
    commented on 's reply
    Sikaflex is good stuff.

  • Floaty_Prime
    commented on 's reply
    There are some great YouTube videos on painting the out drive. Most of the people I've seen go to a farm or heavy equipment store and get a black 2 part epoxy enamel. I sand barred my boat last hear and scuffed the paint on my lower so I'll be painting mine this summer as well. Fortunately I was only traveling about 10 mph and it was very soft sand. Just enough to get the lower unit.

  • builderdude
    replied
    You need a ridged flat surface (within 1/16 or .0625) around the keyhole when your done. You’ve already opened up the transom from the interior so I’d continue with your choice of clamping in the core using coosa board.

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  • builderdude
    commented on 's reply
    Same as the 5200 we use

  • Quetz
    replied
    Has anyone used this stuff. It looks easier than Coosa board or marine plywood. I would just have to build a dam with wax to get it off it looks.

    https://youtu.be/AH9GS9Zy97k

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  • Kivikari
    replied
    About the leak, I had a small leak after launching my 288. A bucketfull of water oozed in every 24 h, the aft bilge pump worked daily. Not good. I drained the bilge with water vacuum, dried with a towel and started a long watch under and behind the engine equipped with wifes mirror and a flashlight. The plug hole was the source. I pulled the boat out yesterday, undid the plug, put some new plastic plumberstuff in the threads, tightened the screws of the plug assembly and coated the lot with marinegrade sika 291i. Leak stopped. I will do a proper fix in the fall and will replace the screws and put sikaflex in the proper places. You guys propably have some other polyurethane based sealing agent in the US, I go with the swiss sikaflex. Polyurethane based stuff needs humidity to get solid, so it continues curing even if submerged!

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  • Kivikari
    replied
    I had an issue with a shower drain box pump. Similar to the rear bilge pump. The float had quit floating, it was full of water. Pulled it out and found that the float had cracked on the side, maybe due to freezing. Patched the side of the float with some epoxy glue and works fine now, so when testing by lifting the float by hand the pump ran, but it did not float in water!

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  • Quetz
    replied
    Phew, i thought you were going to tell me the hull had a wood core.

    Thanks for the paint [email protected]

    Any tricks or suggestion on an easier way to remove the solid parts of the core? The rotted stuff is messy but easy the other solid sections are like rock. I am gnawing at it with a chisel, but its a slow go..

    Leave a comment:

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