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Sinking -No Bail - Ciera 2252

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    #16
    I can't get within a foot from the bilge pump and I gave up on looking for the leak. I called a mechanic who is coming tomorrow. I will update this thread.

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      #17
      Ok, so after further digging it has been determined it is the exhayst Y-pipe. Darn!! They are talking me the engine has to come off. I had someone suggest to use J-B Weld if I can get to it, but I'm quite apprehensive of that option. Any ideas? How much should it cost do you think? Where can I get a wishbone for the 2002 Merc 5.0?

      I did get the bilge pump sorted out I just replacing it with a new automatic one.

      Comment


        #18
        Look on line for a new y-pipe and replace it. Yup engine needs to come out.
        1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

        Mike

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          #19
          On the plus side you can get at your bilge pump.
          Another way to install a bilge pump is get a long piece of aluminum wide as a bilge pump. Mount the pump to the aluminum and just slide it under the engine and leave it there. You can now get to your bilge pump any time. If your engine is out remove the old pump and mount. If not, just slide it back to the old pump.
          Doug
          Started boating 1955
          Number of boats owned 32
          Bayliners
          2655
          2755
          2850
          3870 presently owned
          Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

          Comment


            #20
            WTF??? Not the Ypipe!!! So after telling me it was the Ypipe my marina now said ooops its the gimble housing assembly and a blown seal. They misdiagnosed the issue and took the engine and outdrive off to figure it out. Now they are saying I need a new assembly, possible fiberglass work and it's going to cost me between $5,000 and $7,000.

            if they told me it was the assembly could I have simply put Marine sealant County housing and called it a day?
            Should I just ask him to put the boat back together and deal with it myself? Or should I just bite the bullet and pay whatever they are asking as Ransom to get the boat back?

            Comment


            • builderdude
              builderdude commented
              Editing a comment
              They’ve likely discovered a rotten transom. I’d want a firm price on what it’ll take to bring it back to a safe operational boat as once your in that far the repair/replace list grows quickly.

            #21

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              #22
              These are the pictures they sent me with a litany of other things they said it needs, which I think it's a Crock of nonsense.

              Comment


                #23
                Questions to ask them; is it the gasket on the transom assembly that's bad? Is the issue corrosion of the transom assembly that has created a hole in it? Is the transom rotten that is causing the leak as the transom assembly can't get a good seal against a mushy transom?

                If the unit is corroded slapping sealant on it will only fail later and is too much of a risk.

                Looking at the second picture you exhaust is leaking which can lead to engine damage. it should be disassemblied and inspected as it may be time to replace it.

                BTY it's not uncommon to have to disassembly to this level to be able to properly diagnose this type of leak.
                1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                Mike

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                  #24
                  There’s been a lot of water entering down low for quite a while. Transom flex will allow water to enter around the transom seal. You likely have a soft/rotten transom core causing this issue. It’s hard to tell in your pic but it looks like some cracking has occurred around the keyhole in the areas I’ve circled. That’s definitely a sign of a failed core.
                  Click image for larger version

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                  Dave
                  Edmonds, WA
                  "THE FIX"
                  '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                  (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                  The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                  Misc. projects thread
                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                  Comment


                    #25
                    Failed core? What does that mean. The boat stays in a boatel out of the water most of the time. It was bone dry when I bought it and i am keeping it in the same boatel.

                    the engine ran well as did the outdrive, it only leaked when in the water so a leak around the assembly makes sense, but likely because of a blown seal I would think given everything else on the boat was so well kept.

                    what would a failed core look or feel like? The engine and outdrive are out right now. I am going to go look at it tomorrow, but I'm not sure what to look for on the assembly. Couldn't have gotten into and accident and the assembly cracked and came off the sealed contact with the transom? I ask because the lower unit of the outdrive in new? (I bought it this way).

                    Comment


                      #26
                      You stated the repair facility mentioned fiberglass work related to your rather large leakage issue. My thoughts on that coupled with the pics you’ve posted lead me to question the structural integrity of the core material (plywood) in the transom.
                      When you visit the boat you can drill some 1/8 holes (from the inside, and only about 1” deep) randomly around the key hole through the fiberglass skin into the transom core (plywood). Look at the material the drill bit brings out. Clean dry wood is what we want to see, wet normal wood colored shavings means it’s wet but could still be ok as far as a solid structure (clock ticking). Dark or mushy shavings means it’s rotting or has rotted away and is no longer doing its job keeping the transom from flexing thus causing your transom seal leakage.
                      Dave
                      Edmonds, WA
                      "THE FIX"
                      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                      Misc. projects thread
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                      Comment


                        #27
                        That makes sense. The owner before me had it in a boated for 5 years and used it twice in 2 years (marina has records), so it was never in the water for long. the first owner I don't know so perhaps there was a harder start to its life the first few years. I will actually now go there this weekend instead so I will drill a few small holes, but sorry for the ignorance, what is the "keyhole"? Is it the opening in the middle of the assembly? As in the area where the suspected leak is (bottom part of assembly?

                        Thanks again for your patience and help!!

                        Comment


                          #28
                          Key hole is the transom cut out where the gimbal housing mounts.
                          Just a thought:
                          My 2556 was a 1 owner boat that had been dry stacked most of its life (except the last 3 years). It was a well cared for boat. The transom was completely rotten among a few other things.
                          Dave
                          Edmonds, WA
                          "THE FIX"
                          '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                          (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                          The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                          Misc. projects thread
                          https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                          Comment


                            #29
                            Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                            Key hole is the transom cut out where the gimbal housing mounts.
                            Just a thought:
                            My 2556 was a 1 owner boat that had been dry stacked most of its life (except the last 3 years). It was a well cared for boat. The transom was completely rotten among a few other things.
                            Dave is a good source of info here as he has had a lot of experience in this area.
                            1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                            Mike

                            Comment


                              #30
                              Yikes, are Bayliners that poorly made? I have had 30yo boats that were rock solid.


                              If transom is rotted, then what? Are there reasonable options? Is repairing a transom something once can do a DIY project?

                              Comment

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