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    2560 initial start up after sitting

    Hi there! I’m currently on “deployment” (just in Okinawa for a while) and should be coming home soon. My dad wants to give me a 2560 trophy? Cierra? From what I’m gathering on this forum is that the 2560 and 2556 are similar?

    All of this aside im curious to know what my steps are going to be. It has been sitting for probably 5 years
    how many batteries will I need to buy and what type of batteries work?
    Will I need to switch out the spark plugs? I know I’m going to have to drain fuel and oil and refill.
    its has a cobra (drive?) that was rebuilt right before it started its life of sitting there doing nothing.
    I love projects and working on things myselfim certain I have my work cut out for me but any advice on the starting off would be helpful
    and lastly, what if I change the batteries, spark plugs, fuel, oil, and I’m assuming the drive oil might need to be changed? What happens after all that if it won’t start where do I go from there? Well I hope to hear back from you guys any other advice or things I can research would be helpful



    #2
    Welcome Aboard !

    When you get back home to the USA post again in this thread, save it to your favorites.

    I and others for sure will guide you thru every step of the process, if the engine was winterized properly you will have a running engine and drive.

    But for sure i will make it my mission to help you, ain't my first rodeo.

    For now watch your azz, get home safe no matter what it takes.

    G-D bless.
    Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

    1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

    '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

    Manalapan N.J

    Comment


    • Acogdoc
      Acogdoc commented
      Editing a comment
      of course!! thanks for your reply! also, if you know anyone on here that has been in or had a slip in southern california or can steer my in the direction of affordable slips....... that would be a huge help. everywhere i have been researching seems extremely expensive for my moderate budget lol i would rather put the money into the boat than storing it.... and sadly.... if i know my dad... it has not been properly winterized but must it have been winterized to be sitting in california?? im sure everything is gummed up from sitting im just nervous of making the step of taking the boat due to the cost of putting money into it and it not running... i would empty my bank account into if i knew it ran and would run with a little work and a battery and oil... i just have no idea what can go wrong while it sits.. sorry im so new to this

    #3
    ...................
    Originally posted by Acogdoc View Post
    Hi there! I’m currently on “deployment” (just in Okinawa for a while) and should be coming home soon. My dad wants to give me a 2560 trophy? Cierra? From what I’m gathering on this forum is that the 2560 and 2556 are similar?
    Thank you for your service.

    All of this aside im curious to know what my steps are going to be. It has been sitting for probably 5 years
    how many batteries will I need to buy and what type of batteries work?
    Your best bet for the money will be wet cell batteries.
    A good cranking battery for bank #1 (SLBB start load batt bank), and two 6 volt golf cart batteries (in series) for the #2 (HLBB house load batt bank).
    The 6 volt GC batteries (when in series) will give you more AH..... and Amp Hours is what we need for House Loads!

    Look to see if the boat is equipped with an MBSS (main battery selector switch).
    The MBSS will allow you to select between 1-ALL/BOTH-2-OFF
    #1 will be your SLBB and #2 will be your HLBB.


    NOTE: do not pass through the OFF position while the engine is running!

    Will I need to switch out the spark plugs?
    Not necessarily for an initial start up. You may want to pull a few and take a look at their condition.

    I know I’m going to have to drain fuel and oil and refill.
    If the engine was put away properly, the engine oil is likely OK.... same with the stern drive gear oil!
    The fuel will be bad, and should be drained and disposed of.
    Once drained, I would put 5 gallons on Non-Ethanol gasoline back in.
    I would also suggest installing a Parker RACOR fuel filter system.... the style for I/Bs only (metal fuel bowl).
    If the fuel in the carburetor evaporated quickly (after initial storage), the carburetor may be OK..... you won't know until you attempt to start it and run it.
    There may be a small fuel filter within the carburetor body. If so, I would replace that before attempting start-up.

    Once the fuel has been drained and replaced with new, you may want to very carefully disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor.
    Then crank the engine over and purge the fuel lines from tank to filter, the line to fuel pump, and the line from the pump to the carburetor.

    Be very careful..... gasoline vapors are extremely explosive regarding un-wanted ignition.

    NOTE: Someone may suggest using a portable fuel tank as to circumvent the OEM fuel tank.
    In my opinion, that would be a waste of time when the OEM fuel tank needs to be drained of the bad fuel anyway.


    its has a cobra (drive?) that was rebuilt right before it started its life of sitting there doing nothing.
    I love projects and working on things myself. I'm certain I have my work cut out for me but any advice on the starting off would be helpful
    and lastly, what if I change the batteries, spark plugs, fuel, oil, and I’m assuming the drive oil might need to be changed? What happens after all that if it won’t start where do I go from there?
    Suggestion:
    Borrow a good cranking battery for the initial start up.
    I would make removing the old fuel my first and top priority before attempting start-up.
    (see my comments above)


    Well I hope to hear back from you guys any other advice or things I can research would be helpful

    i just have no idea what can go wrong while it sits.

    If not properly winterized prior to storage:
    .... small amounts of rust on the exposed cylinder walls.
    .... small amounts of rust on the seating surfaces of any valve seats and/or valves that were partially open.
    .... if the stern drive was left in the UP position for 5 or so years, the drive shaft bellows are mostly gone.
    .... if the seawater pump impeller was not removed for the lay-up during, it too is gone.


    In southern Cal, you won't (or should not) have any freeze damage concerns.

    If you have access to a small bore scope, you could take a peek into each cylinder via an open spark plug port.

    You can add a bit of oil to each cylinder if so inclined. Note that on a V engine, the oil will pool at the low side of the cylinders.

    I would suggest that you use a strap wrench over the harmonic balancer to see if the crankshaft will rotate.
    I would do this before using the starter motor!


    DO NOT use the center crankshaft bolt for this!


    Side note..... although they may mean well, steer clear of any automotive type help regarding engine tuning.
    The Marine engine specs are not the same as automotive.


    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Comment


      #4
      Have we lost the OP here?
      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Comment


        #5
        Originally posted by 2850Bounty View Post
        Have we lost the OP here?
        It has been 2 days, better call the FBI
        " WET EVER "
        1989 2459 TROPHY OFFSHORE 5.8L COBRA / SX
        mmsi 338108404
        mmsi 338124956
        "I started with nothing and still have most of it left"

        It's only a rock, get over it.

        Comment


          #6
          Guy is in the military ...
          Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

          1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

          '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

          Manalapan N.J

          Comment


            #7

            Comment


              #8
              i wrote a whole response and nothing showed up sorry ive been busy with some work stuff.. i liked bounty's idea of just changing fuel and getting a good cranking battery for the initial start thats saves some money in the very beginning to know right where im at. should i pull and check the impeller or change it before i do this?? i know you said that thing is probably shot?
              i was curious if anyone knows if this would be best for dry storage or in a slip? i dont have a vehichle large enough to tow it and i found some dry storage places that can launch for you... i also saw someone on facebook towing their 2556 with a new ford ranger deisel!! that was crazy to me!! my dad says to safely tow this thing i would need to be doing so with a f250 ( 2500) size truck..
              anyone have an idea of affordable slips in southern ca LA area??

              Comment


                #9
                I’d also recommend a larger tow vehicle. The 2556 with a sbc sitting on a trailer with a 1/2 load of fuel will weigh at least 8,200 lbs.
                but get her running first
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment


                  #10
                  .............................
                  Originally posted by Acogdoc View Post
                  i wrote a whole response and nothing showed up sorry ive been busy with some work stuff..
                  i liked bounty's idea of just changing fuel and getting a good cranking battery for the initial start. that saves some money in the very beginning to know right where im at.

                  should i pull and check the impeller or change it before i do this?? i know you said that thing is probably shot?
                  Yes.... if the seawater pump impeller has been sitting in the pump housing for 5 years, I would say that at least 3 or 4 of the impeller's vanes have taken a "set" by now.

                  In my image below, you can see that several vanes/blades are folded against the cam or against the eccentric area (depending on pump style).
                  After sitting in this position for long periods, these vanes/blades take what we call a "set".
                  There is typically no recovery from this.
                  All of these vanes need to be supple and resilient. A new seawater pump impeller would be best.

                  By the way.... the OMC Cobra uses the eccentric style seawater pump.


                  As you install the new impeller, you can lube it with glycerin from a pharmacy. (no petroleum products)
                  You will need a garden hose, water supply, garden hose "water muffs" and perhaps a method to ensure that they won't slip off.

                  i was curious if anyone knows if this would be best for dry storage or in a slip?
                  You will no doubt have a few issues that will be easier and safer to deal with while on land .... or what we call the 'Hard".

                  And by the way..... with the impeller removed, you can safely do a quick "dry start" without a water supply to the lower gear unit.
                  Perhaps one start up, and a run-time of 15 seconds (of low speed operation).
                  You will not harm anything in that short duration!


                  i dont have a vehichle large enough to tow it and i found some dry storage places that can launch for you... i also saw someone on facebook towing their 2556 with a new ford ranger deisel!! that was crazy to me!! my dad says to safely tow this thing i would need to be doing so with a f250 ( 2500) size truck..
                  I agree..... the Ford Ranger is not large enough to safely tow, let alone brake/stop this size boat.


                  Originally posted by Dean
                  It has been 2 days, better call the FBI
                  Originally posted by Alen
                  Guy is in the military ...
                  You two guys quick picking on me!



                  .
                  Attached Files
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                    #11
                    Really need a truck rated for 10,000 pounds.

                    Use a external tank of fuel for startup containing fresh clean gas you bought within the week.

                    Clean all fuel line to the carb.

                    Remove the screen at the carb and clean or replace.

                    Be aware all fuel line on that boat is suspect, and here is my rational, this new fuel will destroy your hose in short under. It will destroy from the inside out, and clog your screens and carb.

                    My point, it might behoove you to remove the fuel pickup hose off the onboard tank, using new hose to the fuel pump, should be steel after that unless you have a fuel water seporator then you may need new hose to the steel.

                    You will need to do that anyway, we want startup with good hose, and clean fuel.

                    We'll get to that when ya get home.

                    You already have the best minds here helping you minus me.
                    Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                    1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                    '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                    Manalapan N.J

                    Comment


                      #12
                      Thanks for all the responses and help guys. Really appreciate it. I’m looking forward to getting this thing going and maybe getting a couple fish on deck this summer.

                      Comment


                        #13
                        In addition to all the other suggestions, make sure to get muffs that fit well, some of the Tempo style ones with the dual rectangular muffs don't allow the impeller to prime because the rubber is too stiff. I like the Mercruy/Quicksilver round style with the metal clamp, the rubber is much softer and conforms to the shape of the lower unit. If you have a Cobra drive you just have to drill a 1/8" hole through the plastic screen in the lower unit (through one of the 4 big holes) to make it work. And again, the Cobra impeller replacement is an easy job, just make sure that the rubber o-ring stays in the black plastic cover when installing. It can shift out of place and cause an air leak when you are on plane. I use OMC/Evinrude triple guard grease to keep it in place. Before your first start up (I do this the first start of every season) try this to get it to prime fast:
                        Hook up your ear muffs. Go up to the front of the engine and disconnect the raw water intake hose at the thermostat housing. Then put a funnel in this hose and fill it with as much water as it will take. This will put water into the impeller housing and fill the water intake area with water as well. When you turn on the water hose, this water will be forced up into the impeller housing and it will get plenty of lubrication for the first start.


                        Click image for larger version

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                        88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                        98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                        07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                        Long Island Sound Region

                        Comment


                          #14


                          Just a reminder...... the OPs boat is equipped with an OMC Cobra stern drive.

                          DO NOT use any petroleum based lubricants on the impeller. Petroleum products may damage the impeller material.
                          As suggested, use Glycerin for an impeller lubricant.

                          Also, he does not need to install a new impeller for an initial 15 second "dry" start.


                          Originally posted by post #3
                          NOTE: Someone may suggest using a portable fuel tank as to circumvent the OEM fuel tank.
                          In my opinion, that would be a waste of time when the OEM fuel tank needs to be drained of the bad fuel anyway.
                          Originally posted by OP
                          i liked bounty's idea of just changing fuel
                          Even if this boat ends up in the landfill, the OEM fuel tank must be drained and removed.
                          IMO, it would be a waste of time to use a portable fuel tank.
                          I would rather spend the time draining the old fuel.
                          Clean or replace the fuel lines with USCG approved gasoline fuel lines.

                          And yes.... remove the fuel tank dip tube....(aka pick-up tube).
                          Clean the screen at the bottom of it.

                          He may also want to replace the Anti-Siphon valve.

                          Also mentioned in post #3:
                          Replace the carburetor located fuel filter. This may require a second replacement later on!
                          Install a Parker RACOR fuel filter system.
                          After draining the old gasoline out, add 5 gallons of fresh Non-Ethanol fuel.
                          Disconnect fuel line at engine.
                          Crank engine as to purge the fuel lines and fuel pump..... or, use a Tempo Oil Boy extractor to pull the fresh fuel through the lines/filter/pump!
                          Use caution with regard to gasoline fuel vapors!



                          And now, let's all take a short intermission break for refreshment!


                          Click image for larger version

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                          .
                          Attached Files
                          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                          Comment


                            #15
                            After the intermission I want to see some pics of OP’s new to him boat
                            Dave
                            Edmonds, WA
                            "THE FIX"
                            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                            Misc. projects thread
                            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                            Comment

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