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275 Ignition won't start - but battery ok (showing 12 volts), everything else works

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    275 Ignition won't start - but battery ok (showing 12 volts), everything else works

    HI. Newbie ..... and just getting into the joys of boating - recently took ownership of a 275. Had her surveyed and 100% including sea trial. Got her in the water locally, and she started up 1st time - but we couldn't take her out due to high winds - but we let her run for 15 minutes while we checked everything else worked. Came back the next day, started her up first time and again, let her run for 10 minutes to make sure batteries were all fully charged. Everything so far so good,

    Today, we did the same thing - but then, after switching off the engine after 15 minutes, about 10 minutes later we decided we would take her out - but this time, when we turned the ignition - apart from the beep - we got nothing, not a crank, not even a click from the solenoid/alternator nothing - yet the volt meter is still showing 12 volts - everything else, power wise, is working and we have a full tank of gas.

    Just tried it again - same issue.

    Checked she is in neutral - also she has Never had a kill chord - nothing appears to have changed. Engine compartment looks fine

    Anything obvious before I call out a mechanic?

    Any help/advice would be very gratefully received.


    Bayliner 275 Single Engine Cummings/Mercruiser Deisel 2.8lt 200hp.

    #2
    Since it won't crank let's focus on that. When measuring the battery is should be while trying to crank to verify you have good voltage. Next check the voltage at the starter when cranking as you could have loose or corroded battery cables (positive and negative connected to the engine block). I believe your engine also have a slave solenoid in the starting circuit and these are a common source of failure that you described.

    PS you list the engine as a diesel therefore there is no ignition system, i.e. spark plugs, ignition coil,...
    1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

    Mike

    Comment


    • Pipmeister
      Pipmeister commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks, Mike - when I used the term, "turned the ignition" I was referring to the "ignition key" at the helm - figure of speech

    • Nauti_Mike
      Nauti_Mike commented
      Editing a comment
      Understood but it was when you said “ignition won’t start” that got my attention.

    #3
    A 12 volt battery reading 12 volts is more than half dead.
    It should read
    State of Charge Sealed or Flooded Lead Acid battery voltage Gel battery voltage AGM battery voltage
    100% 12.70+ 12.85+ 12.80+
    75% 12.40 12.65 12.60
    50% 12.20 12.35 12.30
    25% 12.00 12.00 12.00
    0% 11.80 11.80 11.80
    Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

    Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
    Twin 350 GM power
    Located in Seward, AK
    Retired marine surveyor

    Comment


    • Pipmeister
      Pipmeister commented
      Editing a comment
      It has always shown 14v when it was running, and has always shown just over 12v before starting. I would have thought that I would have experienced at least 1 slow crank start before when starting, no? But she has started first time, every time over the past 8 days. Maybe I am just comparing to my 30 years of experience with car batteries - as I said, I'm a newbie to boating.

    #4
    Agree with mike. Probably loose/corroded battery cable or a slave solenoid issue. Jump the slave, that’ll tell ya right away. I recommend using a remote starter button to do so.
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    Comment


    • Pipmeister
      Pipmeister commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks - sounds like a plan. - just need to do a bit of reading to understand exactly what to do

    #5
    Forgot to mention - prior to me taking ownership of the boat, it was pretty much permanently plugged into shore power.

    Comment


      #6
      Originally posted by Pipmeister View Post
      Forgot to mention - prior to me taking ownership of the boat, it was pretty much permanently plugged into shore power.
      ok but not sure that provides any value to help diagnose the issue. While the battery charger may have been on it does mean the battery is healthy.

      1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

      Mike

      Comment


        #7
        Even with 8 volts you should have heard something click. Most if not all marine engines use a slave solenoid in addition to the actual starter solenoid. Your Mercruiser diesel, I’d think the slave would be the same as the gassers but don’t know for sure.
        Jump between the 2 large lugs
        Mercruiser or equivalent here:
        https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...yABEgJukfD_BwE
        Dave
        Edmonds, WA
        "THE FIX"
        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
        Misc. projects thread
        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

        Comment


          #8
          Agree jump the solenoid.

          Your for sure in neutral ?

          next step might be jumping the neutral switch, checking the back of the keyswitch .

          The red button circuit breaker ?
          Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

          1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

          '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

          Manalapan N.J

          Comment


            #9
            Agree with double checking the neutral safety switch and the ignition switch.
            If the engine breaker is tripped everything except the trim/tilt pump would be dead, no alarm or voltage reading.
            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment


              #10
              I'll pop out today and get a remote starter switch and try that method, thanks. The location of the starter solenoid is obvious but where might the slave solenoid be situated? I've taken an in-depth "inventory" of the engine bay but don't remember seeing anything that looks like what I would expect an solenoid to look like anywhere else.

              Regarding the neutral switch - (showing my ignorance here) would this be the little red switch directly underneath the throttle (it's simply labelled On/Off)

              Thanks for all your help guys. Much appreciated. It's a shame my dear old dad passed away - 30 years a diesel mechanic and in all that time I never required his years of experience or expertise like I do now.

              Comment


                #11
                Ok.. must be my "lucky" day. Just went on board, tried starting - nothing. Flicked the Run Off switch to off (have no reasoning) tried again - nothing. Flicked it back to Run. Tried again, and hey-ho she fired up (battery running at 14.5 volts). So I am wondering if this is to do with the Run / Off switch. As I said, the boat didn't come with a Kill Chord an nor was one ever in use when we first looked at the boat and she was started or the 3 further times before we purchase - nor the 6 times that we had started her up. This only happened at the weekend after a friend was helping me try and locate the bow thruster isolation switch (which the engine was running) and he was checking all the fuses, switches etc.

                Do you think the Run / Off switch for the Kill Chord might have been, in the past, jerry-wrigged to bypass the need for the Kill Chord and whatever has been used is loose? I still don't understand what Run and Off are meant to signify as none of the literature definitively explains the difference.

                Oh well - the Remote Starter I just purchased I am sure will come in handy and get some use in the future. :-)

                Comment


                • vr5200
                  vr5200 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  The kill cord is supposed to be attached to both the operator and the switch. If during a situation the operator gets thrown overboard or falls and slides 8 or 10 feet away during heavy seas, the engine stops. This keeps a runaway boat from traveling very far if the operator is floundering in the water or half way across the boat.

                  That switch:
                  a) might have been touched by your friend and was not 100 percent in the fully closed position
                  b) may not have been cycled in years

                  It would do no harm for you to cycle it on and off (do it with purpose, ensuring full travel in each direction) 5 or 10 times and try starting the engine.

                  There is a possibility you may never have this problem again......just keep an eye open for any funny symptoms in the future.

                #12
                For us gassers the run/off switch applies/removes power to the ignition system. Since you have a diesel I would have thought to controlled a fuel solenoid as that is the normal way to shut down a diesel. The neutral safety switch is in the throttle/shift mechanism. The shifter must be in neutral when trying to start. The throttle can be advanced by disengaging the shifter (pushing in the button), this is assuming you have a similar one to a gas engine.
                1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                Mike

                Comment


                • Pipmeister
                  Pipmeister commented
                  Editing a comment
                  That makes perfect sense about the switch, Mike. I', thinking the switch itself then might be the problem- as if, like you say, is might control/interrupt the power to the solenoid this would be the reason I don't hear even a click when the ignition key was being turned.

                • Nauti_Mike
                  Nauti_Mike commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I said the run/off (kill) switch controls power to the fuel solenoid on a diesel not the starting solenoid.

                #13
                The engine will still crank even with the kill switch (on/off switch) in the off position. It’s not part of the starting circuit. The neutral saftey switch however is part of the starting circuit. I still think you have an issue with either the slave solenoid or the neutral safety switch. When they start to fail the symptoms are exactly as you have, intermittent starting.
                you hear no click, I’d jiggle the shifter next time to ensure it’s in neutral, they are often finicky.
                Dave
                Edmonds, WA
                "THE FIX"
                '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                Misc. projects thread
                https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                Comment


                • Pipmeister
                  Pipmeister commented
                  Editing a comment
                  All good advice. Thank you all so much

                • vr5200
                  vr5200 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I admittedly have never tried to crank mine with the run switch in the off position. Thank you for the additional info. My boat is still in winter storage and I can't get to it right now to run the identical test..
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