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    Winterization question

    I have a Bayliner 219 with a 5.0 Mercruiser Alpha Drive (I/O). The previous owner suggested a quick way to drain water from the engine: with the boat out of the water (it's on a lift), turn the engine over for 10 seconds and this will blow out the system. I know that you can't run the engine very long without cooling but 10 seconds doesn't seem like enough time to damage anything. I always install an engine compartment heater during the winter. I live in SC so we don't experience extended periods of subfreezing weather and the heater has worked well in the past. I will continue to heat the compartment but was wondering if this technique of flushing the motor is a worthy backup procedure?

    #2
    I don't know where you are in SC, but the issue (risk) is not the expected, but the unexpected.
    Sudden cold front where temps drop low for a day or two, you can't get to the boat for some reason, the electricity goes out, or the heater dies.....are just some examples.
    As a side note, even cranking (not running) the engine, means the lower unit water pump impellor has no lubrication. That shortens it's life.

    A new (or repaired) motor, and the hassle associated with it breaking, is a big deal. Most likely your discovery will occur during the busy spring/early summer season.

    Proper winterization costs 50-175 bucks depending on who does it..............you or a shop.

    Most consider that to be cheap insurance.

    BTW.....if the last guy did that dry crank thing quite a bit, it may be time to have the impellor replaced as additional insurance for a trouble free 2019.
    Last edited by vr5200; 01-16-2019, 06:34 AM. Reason: edit: Not sure if you are near the coast or inland. This certainly influences the risk factor.
    Present Boat- 2018 VR5 4.5/200hp Mercruiser
    Last Boat- 1998 Capri 1950CL 3.0 Mercruiser

    Comment


      #3
      Thank you for your response. But the question remains, does dry cranking an engine work to remove the water? Secondly, is there much danger of damaging the engine if this is done only once a year? Incidentally, I replace the impellor every three years and change the oil yearly.

      Comment


        #4
        .............................
        Originally posted by wldunbariii View Post
        I have a Bayliner 219 with a 5.0 Mercruiser Alpha Drive (I/O). The previous owner suggested a quick way to drain water from the engine: with the boat out of the water (it's on a lift), turn the engine over for 10 seconds and this will blow out the system.
        Absolutely incorrect!

        I know that you can't run the engine very long without cooling but 10 seconds doesn't seem like enough time to damage anything.
        In the way in which the PO explained doing this.......... the impeller would be at risk.

        I always install an engine compartment heater during the winter.
        That electric heat protection is ONLY as good as your guarantee that you will NOT have a power outage!
        If the power company can give you such a guarantee.... then you are safe!


        I live in SC so we don't experience extended periods of subfreezing weather and the heater has worked well in the past. I will continue to heat the compartment but was wondering if this technique of flushing the motor is a worthy backup procedure?
        With the method that the OP has explained, there is NO flushing taking place..... ONLY unnecessary risks!
        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by wldunbariii View Post
          Thank you for your response. But the question remains,
          1..... does dry cranking an engine work to remove the water?
          2..... Secondly, is there much danger of damaging the engine if this is done only once a year?
          3..... Incidentally, I replace the impellor every three years and change the oil yearly.
          1..... If you are asking about removing water from a Raw Water Cooled engine and exhaust system......... Absolutely NO!
          In order to properly drain down the engine and exhaust system.... all relative drain ports must be opened up and probed.

          2..... If this engine is Raw Water Cooled........ and if temps drop to freezing levels for any duration.... YES!

          3.... 3 years is excessive for an A drive impeller.




          And before the question is even asked about the so called "winterizing kits"...... please read my write up on the topic.
          https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-r...at_pdctrvw_srp


          .
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            As Bounty said, its a risk with NO benefit...

            when the engine cranks over without a supply of water, the impellor will suck a small amount of air which will only blow bubbles thru the water that is left in the system...

            its a simple procedure to drain the system and takes about 10 minutes once you know where to apply your efforts..

            learn how to do it the right way and you will never have to worry...




            NU LIBERTE'
            Salem, OR

            1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
            5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
            N2K equipped throughout..
            2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
            2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
            '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
            Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

            Comment


            • 2850Bounty
              2850Bounty commented
              Editing a comment
              Well said!

            #7
            Once the impeller runs out of water to push through the system it would need to develop sufficient air pressure to "blow" out the remainder of the water...regardless of how long you run the engine. And even if it did develop enough air pressure, it would not blow out the water in low spots or other cavities where the air creates an escape path above the water line in the cavity.

            At risk is the impeller (running it dry) and leaving water in the engine block (freezing).

            Not a good idea...drain the block instead...and if you want extra protection, run the pink stuff through it...after you drain it.
            1988 3888 "Liberty"
            Twin Cummins 6BT's 210hp
            Onan 8.0
            Boating Raritan Bay

            Comment


              #8
              I 2nd, 3rd and 4th the info provided by bounty, centerline and others. The process the prior owner gave was useless.

              For one thing...the thermostat doesn't open until engine is hot (150 to 170ish) depending on thermostat installed (depends on salt vs fresh use of boat). Even if that worked (which it will not) you would have to run engine way longer than 10 seconds for therm to open.

              Just remove the drain plugs...its not hard.

              With that said...once I drain block and manifolds...i do remove the lower hoses from water pump and impeller (I have interior impeller on volvo system), then pull shutoff cord at throttle and spin motor over a couple times. This does blow out residual water held in water pumps. I'm not starting and only turn it over a couple revolutions... maybe 2 or 3 engine rotations.

              I mention this as I'm curious if p.o. left out the drain step...but regardless I would never start motor dry.
              2008 H210SS Four Winns
              Volvo Penta 5.7 GISX
              Prior: 1997 2050SS Bayliner
              Brad / Texas Gulf Coast

              Comment


                #9
                ....................
                Originally posted by TX H210 SS View Post
                I 2nd, 3rd and 4th the info provided by bounty, centerline and others. The process the prior owner gave was useless.

                For one thing...the thermostat doesn't open until engine is hot (150 to 170ish) depending on thermostat installed (depends on salt vs fresh use of boat). Even if that worked (which it will not) you would have to run engine way longer than 10 seconds for therm to open.
                Even if the thermostat did open, keep in mind that the engine is not under load. This means very little engine produced heat.... which means very little thermostat action!
                The amount of Antifreeze that the thermostat would allow to pass through it is minimal.
                Most all of the Antifreeze is "by-passing" the engine side and is going right out the exhaust.
                This is the nature of the T stat and T stat housing in a Raw Water Cooled Marine Engine.


                Please read my Amazon review and write up if you plan to use one of the alleged Winterizing Kits..
                In other words....... DO NOT use one of these kits UNLESS you know exactly what you are doing!!!!!!!


                https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3BD7X6QC3KCFR?ref=pf_vv_at_pdctrvw_srp


                Just remove the drain plugs...its not hard.

                With that said...once I drain block and manifolds... i do remove the lower hoses from water pump and impeller (I have interior impeller on volvo system), then pull shutoff cord at throttle and spin motor over a couple times. This does blow out residual water held in water pumps. I'm not starting and only turn it over a couple revolutions... maybe 2 or 3 engine rotations.
                I mention this as I'm curious if p.o. left out the drain step...but regardless I would never start motor dry.

                With the seawater pump impeller removed, you can safely do a quick 8 to 10 second dry start and blow the exhaust out as well.
                Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                Comment


                  #10
                  There should be an owners manual that came with your boat. If not then maybe get one from Mercruiser or Bayliner. Things change from year to year and sometime in the same year, you may have an option on the engine that someone else does not have so just saying you have a 5.0 is not enough info. Ricks method will work on all but may be overly complicated in your case not to mention how many plugs do you have? Did you find them all? In my case it was twin 6.2's, remove all 9 drain plugs from each engine and that was it, no hose removal, no antifreeze, no special tricks. Did so for 10 years in up to -35 winters. Engine winterization is not a big thing, just need to know how to do it for YOUR engine model/year. Find the manual and follow the instructions is my suggestion.
                  Cheers, Hans
                  2007 Carver 41 CMY
                  Twin Volvo D6-370
                  Montreal, Canada
                  Midnight Sun I Photos

                  Comment


                    #11
                    There are no short cuts, anyone who tells you that is giving very bad advice. I simply followed the OMC manual for my Cobra and never had a problem in 17 years with winters down to 0*F.
                    88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                    98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                    07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                    Long Island Sound Region

                    Comment


                      #12
                      Air doesn't freeze.

                      Raw water cooled engine, remove the mani and block drain plugs, poke hole with stiff wire while draing, reinstall plugs, remove the power steering cooler hose off the pump, let drain into the bilge, pour a half cup of antifreeze into hose and reinstall, leave the drive fully down, depending on drive i.e.: bravo etc, you need to have antifreeze in the raw pump.

                      Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                      1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                      '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                      Manalapan N.J

                      Comment


                        #13
                        ...............................
                        Originally posted by TX H210 SS View Post
                        I 2nd, 3rd and 4th the info provided by bounty, centerline and others. The process the prior owner gave was useless.

                        For one thing...the thermostat doesn't open until engine is hot (150 to 170ish) depending on thermostat installed (depends on salt vs fresh use of boat). Even if that worked (which it will not) you would have to run engine way longer than 10 seconds for therm to open.
                        With no load on the engine, and even when the Stat does open, it opens only enough to allow for minor cooling (again, no load on engine).
                        Most all seawater (antifreeze if you go that route), is bi-passing the actual engine demands.

                        Please note that people get themselves into trouble every year doing this incorrectly!

                        As our member Doug says:
                        "all winterizing appears to be perfect during the layup..... it isn't until Spring time when you find out just how Un-Perfect is was!"



                        I mention this as I'm curious if p.o. left out the drain step...but regardless I would never start an engine dry.
                        I have been removing my seawater pump impellers and doing a quick 10 - 15 second dry-start for more years than I can remember.
                        This blows the exhaust clear, and it allows the impellers to relax until they are re-installed during re-commissioning.
                        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                        Comment


                          #14
                          So I assume it's only the impeller that gets trashed during a dry start? I don't remove the impeller for winter....i just replace it every other year.

                          I just spin the motor to clear water out of pumps. I didn't think water would collect in exhaust after draining them...i assumed the water ran down and out the drive when it was lowered which is how I store it.....or....out the thru hull exhaust ports.

                          Last edited by TX H210 SS; 01-31-2019, 07:50 PM. Reason: Typo
                          2008 H210SS Four Winns
                          Volvo Penta 5.7 GISX
                          Prior: 1997 2050SS Bayliner
                          Brad / Texas Gulf Coast

                          Comment


                            #15
                            ..........................
                            Originally posted by TX H210 SS View Post
                            So I assume it's only the impeller that gets trashed during a dry start?
                            If it was to run dry and create un-lubricated friction.......... then yes, that is possible.

                            I don't remove the impeller for winter....i just replace it every other year.
                            With your Volvo Penta 5.7 GISX, you can easily remove the seawater pump impeller. This will allow you to do a quick dry-start.

                            I just spin the motor to clear water out of pumps. I didn't think water would collect in exhaust after draining them...i assumed the water ran down and out the drive when it was lowered which is how I store it.....or....out the thru hull exhaust ports.
                            Ideally, yes!
                            The short/quick dry-start eliminates this risk!



                            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                            Comment


                            • TX H210 SS
                              TX H210 SS commented
                              Editing a comment
                              Got it...the ease of the impeller swap is why I sought after the volvo penta unit. I'm no expert but don't understand why they don't have and electric water pickup pump on these motors.

                              My bud has race cars that use electric high volume circulation water pumps...i don't get why we all have to rely on rubber vein style spinners.
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