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    #46
    Have I ever mentioned how much I hate doing engine work? It just never gets easier.

    88fourwinds, your comment about the spark plugs was ....accurate. I soaked all of them in PB Penetrating fluid, then gently tried to remove them. The front and back plugs came out, ....but .......CRAP!

    Click image for larger version  Name:	BonDCEngineBrokenPlug.jpg Views:	1 Size:	328.6 KB ID:	475487

    I'm guessing I need to go buy an EZ out...... The porcelain one on the left twisted off, so I guess I need to pry it out of there while hoping not tossed any bits into the engine.

    And that broken stud? PB Penetrating fluid, lots of heat, light hammering while twisting it with the vice grips, .....and it just reams the threads off. My concern now is how much more I can heat it before I either weld it in solid, or take enough temper out of it that I'll break it off.

    The good news is, I'm glad I'm doing this and not the mechanic; I can only imagine how much he would charge for this. The sad news is ....I wish he was doing it. *heavy sigh*

    OH! And I tried every shop the Olympic Peninsula for the studs, and no go. So, I ordered them online. They should be here in a week, ...just enough time to finally get the grease and paint off my hands.
    "B on D C", is a 1989 2459 Trophy Offshore HT, OMC 5.7L, Cobra OD, Yamaha 15hp kicker. Lots of toys! I'm no mechanic, just a blue water sailer and woodworker who loves deep sea fishing.
    MMSI: 367637220
    HAM: KE7TTR
    TDI tech diver
    BoD Puget Sound Anglers North Olympic Peninsula Chapter
    Kevin

    Comment


      #47
      Wow, those plugs have not been changed in a very long time for the metal housings to crumble away so badly, the exhaust must have been leaking for a long time. Surprised you didn’t ever have a hydro lock issue.
      IMO The head will likely need to be removed if it can even be saved.
      Dave
      Edmonds, WA
      "THE FIX"
      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
      Misc. projects thread
      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

      Comment


        #48
        I started using mapp gas for frozen bolts and studs that I could get a bite on. Not crazy good success, but better than with propane. Put your heat on the bolt only and get it red hot then let it cool until you can at least see if it's hot. Then try working it A solid tap with a big hammer, try to rock the stud out and in. Repeat. Just another way to try.
        For all that rust, start with a pair of safety glasses and a stiff wire wheel. Then try some muriatic acid in a well ventilated area and a hand wire brush. Rinse and blow dry. You can probably save the manifold machined surface with a strap of polishing belt, 320 grit or so going to whatever you can find around 460 stapled to a chunk of 1" thick flat wood a couple of feet long and sanding the surface. I'd probably use some light oil to control the grit removed. Obviously shove rags in the ports.
        P/C Pete
        Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
        1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
        Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
        1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
        MMSI 367770440
        1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
        Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

        Comment


          #49
          Originally posted by builderdude View Post
          Wow, those plugs have not been changed in a very long time for the metal housings to crumble away so badly, the exhaust must have been leaking for a long time. Surprised you didn’t ever have a hydro lock issue.
          IMO The head will likely need to be removed if it can even be saved.
          Actually, the plugs were changed last January, along with a tune up. Then I took it out twice later that month right before we had a very cold snap. I was under the misconception that if the heat exchanger was empty, the manifolds would be too. Apparently, I was wrong. That's about the only time I can think of where it was cold enough to crack. It could, however, have been a hairline crack from the year before that gradually opened up. Either way, I know better now.

          From what I can see, the valves inside the ports all look good. I'm going to clean everything up, then see how it looks.
          "B on D C", is a 1989 2459 Trophy Offshore HT, OMC 5.7L, Cobra OD, Yamaha 15hp kicker. Lots of toys! I'm no mechanic, just a blue water sailer and woodworker who loves deep sea fishing.
          MMSI: 367637220
          HAM: KE7TTR
          TDI tech diver
          BoD Puget Sound Anglers North Olympic Peninsula Chapter
          Kevin

          Comment


            #50
            Wow sorry to hear that but I could see it in the previous pix. A steady stream or spray of salt water will do a lot of damage. The ironic thing is that if they are kept dry the plugs in these GM marine engines usually come out very easily. I never had any trouble getting the plugs out of my old engine even with the old cyl heads. It may be that you will wind up having to remove the intake and the head on that side at least. Might as well do the other one and have the heads re-done. The parts cost is cheap. The challenge, is will the intake bolts and head bolts come out. My guess is the engine being closed cooled there is probably not much internal rust. I got all of then out of my V6 with a De Walt electric impact gun. Thought for sure I'd break one (raw water cooled in the salt) but they all came out. If you look at your pic closely, you can see the rust probably prevented any penetrating oil from even getting on the plugs. I would have taken a pick and dug out as much rust as I could and then soaked with a combination of PB Blaster, Kroil and Freeze Off. I used a combo of Kroil and Freeze Off to remove a stuck brake rotor on my '07 Jeep plus a few mechanic's tricks......
            88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
            98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
            07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

            Long Island Sound Region

            Comment


              #51
              How to remove a stuck brake rotor....get 2 bolts that will thread into the caliper mount (or if not threaded, get a bolt, 2 washers and 2 nuts). Dig out the corrosion around the center hole, and spray Freeze Off (which flows better than most other oils, but you can use all three (Kroil and PB) for good measure Use the bolts to put pressure on the rotor, after installing the old pad first against the rotor. This spreads the force applied by the bolts. You don't want to go crazy tightening them, just enough to put a good bind on it. Let it sit. Then put the lug nuts on to protect the studs get a 3 lb sledge hammer and wack it between the studs a few times. This one came off in 5 min. If it doesn't budge, loosen the bolts, turn it 1/4 turn and repeat. Before installing the new ones, coat the hub in antiseize. They will come right off next time.
              88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
              98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
              07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

              Long Island Sound Region

              Comment


                #52
                Apply Map or Propane heat to the rotor. It should expand just enough to free itself when you use a dead-blow hammer against it.


                And please ask to have your Thread Title changed to:
                "Hydraulic Steering and many many many other topics!"
                Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                Comment


                  #53
                  Originally posted by 2850Bounty View Post
                  Apply Map or Propane heat to the rotor. It should expand just enough to free itself when you use a dead-blow hammer against it.


                  And please ask to have your Thread Title changed to:
                  "Hydraulic Steering and many many many other topics!"
                  Actually on the first one I did, I tried heat from the propane torch and wacking it but it did not pop free till I put a bit of force against it with the 2 bolt trick. On the other side I didn't even use heat and it came off in 5 min.
                  88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                  98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                  07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                  Long Island Sound Region

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Another thought for Catpn Crunchie...
                    if you don't want to chance making it worse, or having to pull the cyl head off, if its in the back of your truck, why not see if you can drive to a machine shop and ask a machinist to get those 2 plugs out for your? Some things are fore sure worth paying for.
                    88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
                    98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
                    07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

                    Long Island Sound Region

                    Comment


                      #55
                      I fear for the threads in the head.
                      Dave
                      Edmonds, WA
                      "THE FIX"
                      '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                      (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                      The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                      Misc. projects thread
                      https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                        I fear for the threads in the head.
                        I fear for the next owner, see post 16 he plans on selling in the near future. Not that I think he would intentionally true to screw someone but this thing seems to have lots of hidden issues.
                        1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

                        Mike

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Originally posted by Nauti_Mike View Post

                          I fear for the next owner, see post 16 he plans on selling in the near future. Not that I think he would intentionally true to screw someone but this thing seems to have lots of hidden issues.
                          You are correct that I am doing this to sell the boat. Mixed thoughts about how far I want to go with this, or if I should sell it as is with the motor out. Either way, it's an expense I really didn't want, ....but it is a boat. Thankfully, I am in no rush to do either.

                          I will add, though, that the photos look much worse than it is. While the ports could be cleaner, most of the rust is actually located behind and below the gasket where it isn't pinched between the pieces. The flakes around the ports are just pieces of the gasket.

                          I'll post more photos as I gradually clean it up.
                          "B on D C", is a 1989 2459 Trophy Offshore HT, OMC 5.7L, Cobra OD, Yamaha 15hp kicker. Lots of toys! I'm no mechanic, just a blue water sailer and woodworker who loves deep sea fishing.
                          MMSI: 367637220
                          HAM: KE7TTR
                          TDI tech diver
                          BoD Puget Sound Anglers North Olympic Peninsula Chapter
                          Kevin

                          Comment


                            #58
                            Karma!
                            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                            Comment


                              #59
                              Originally posted by 2850Bounty View Post
                              Karma!
                              Huh???
                              "B on D C", is a 1989 2459 Trophy Offshore HT, OMC 5.7L, Cobra OD, Yamaha 15hp kicker. Lots of toys! I'm no mechanic, just a blue water sailer and woodworker who loves deep sea fishing.
                              MMSI: 367637220
                              HAM: KE7TTR
                              TDI tech diver
                              BoD Puget Sound Anglers North Olympic Peninsula Chapter
                              Kevin

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Originally posted by CptCrunchie View Post
                                You are correct that I am doing this to sell the boat. Mixed thoughts about how far I want to go with this, or if I should sell it as is with the motor out. Either way, it's an expense I really didn't want, ....
                                Originally posted by Rick
                                Karma
                                Originally posted by CptCrunchie
                                Huh?
                                [ˈkärmə]
                                NOUN
                                1. (in Hinduism and Buddhism) the sum of a person's actions in this and previous states of existence, viewed as deciding their fate in future existences ........................
                                2. Karma means action, work or deed; it also refers to the spiritual principle of cause and effect where intent and actions of an individual influence the future of that individual. Good intent and good deeds contribute to good karma and future happiness, while bad intent and bad deeds contribute to bad karma and future suffering. The philosophy of karma is closely associated with the idea of rebirth in many schools of Indian religions as well as Taoism.............................

                                Crunchie, you do as you wish................. I was just leaving a reminder!
                                Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                                2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                                Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                                Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                                Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                                Comment

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