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Waking a sleeping 3ltr stern drive with alfa1 leg.-gctid349319

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  • Waking a sleeping 3ltr stern drive with alfa1 leg.-gctid349319

    Hi everyone! It's been a few years since I've posted here.

    A 2000 1750 bowrider with a 3.0ltr mercruiser and Alfa1 leg.

    Last used it in 2006, however, I used to run it regularly with muffs and more recently with the leg in a 200ltr tub of water.

    But other issues including an MGB restoration and more recently bypass surgery and prostate cancer had intervened and it has sat for a few years under cover but neglected.

    Now that all is right with my world again and am looking at retirement, I'm wanting to resurrect the boat and get back into it.

    I'm reluctant to just fill'er up and attempt to fire it up.

    What sort of issues and things should I be checking on before trying to start it?

    It 'ran when parked' but no measures were taken prior to it being left.

    Climate here is very mild temperatures not going below 10 deg C in winter up to mid to high 30's in summer.

    Oh, btw it's raw water cooled but its runs in the tub have been fresh tank/rain water.

    2000 1750 Bowrider
    3.0Ltr Mercruiser, Alpha 1 leg
    SS 4 blade prop

  • #2
    Chris, glad that you're regaining good health!

    This is an easy one.

    Lesson 101 on flexible vane sea water pump impellers:

    Father Time can take it's tole on an impeller more so than actual and continual usage.

    When an impeller is left sitting at rest within the pump body (for long durations without use), three/four vanes are either folded against the cam, or in your case, folded against the eccentric side of the pump body.

    This composite material (we'll call it rubber) takes a "set" over time and looses resiliency.... I.E., not enough "Umph" left to work effectively as a pump impeller.

    I'd say that you are way past time for an impeller change.

    Drive shaft bellows:

    How has the drive been stored during this time frame????

    If full up and/or turned to one side or the other, this rubber also takes a "set" in the form of being "stressed" at the areas where it has been asked to expand beyond what would resemble a drive in the "full down" and "straight ahead" storage position.

    You should be storing the drive down and straight ahead, IMO, and do so each and every time.

    I'd suggest a new drive shaft bellows as well.... although you could certainly fire it up on the garden hose once the impeller has been replaced.

    Look at the shift cable bellows also.

    Engine drive coupler alignment:

    See you OEM owner's manual for a suggestion re; intervals for this alignment.

    2006 fuel:

    You may want to take a fuel sampling and make sure that the fuel is not going foul on you. That fuel is approx 6 -/+ years old.

    In warmer climates, this can be more of an issue.

    Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model 31' LOA
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling systems
    Volvo Penta Duo Prop Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on the forum.
    If you leave a "post", rather than a "comment", our members will see recent thread activity!


    • #3
      I like to put a little auto trans fluid down each spark plug hole, and crank the engine over by hand with the plugs still out, then by starter with the ignition disabled to lube everything up a little bit. Internals will be pretty dry sitting for that long and will appreciate the lube.


      • #4
        1. Drain any fuel out of the tank and dispose of it. 6 years in the tank, its surely bad.

        2. Change the oil

        3. Clean the caburator

        4. Have the outdrive pressure/vacuum tested. Or better yet, have the drive resealed.

        5. Change the water pump impeller

        6. Remove the prop and grease the splines

        7. Run it on the muffs for 15 minutes, then change the oil again

        Then go boating
        Captharv 2001 2452
        "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"