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    #46
    Did you verify if that was in fact water down in the manifold? I really think your issue is a gasket mating surface failure. If you ran it for a good long time and your oil is now looking clean you could likely winterize and drain the manifolds and lay her up for the winter.
    Id also suggest if the age of your exhaust components are unknown that you replace them with new. This could be done now or after you recommission her next season.
    Dave
    Edmonds, WA
    "THE FIX"
    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
    Misc. projects thread
    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

    Comment


      #47
      Warba Warrior, when you are changing the oil, are you also changing the oil filter?


      I noticed a few things that I would like to bring to your attention:

      A good machinist can dress each manifold and elbow mating surface using a machine shop surface sanding machine. It will take him about 5 to 6 minutes for each surface.

      The OEM 95mm exhaust couplers are always too short. When short like yours are, the material eventually becomes depressed into the scalloped areas at the exhaust Elbows, eventually causing over-heating issues!
      I would suggest replacing them with new 95mm soft wall wet marine exhaust hose (soft wall..... no wire!) about 1-1/2" to 2" longer than the OEM couplers!
      Make sure that your band clamps are NOT positioned over the scalloped areas.

      Your Cabin Heater/Water Heater return hose must be plumbed into the Stbd most port of the engine circulating pump. As it is now, it is incorrect!
      The T fitting should be removed and tossed.
      The T-stat-to-exhaust-manifold-hose should be replaced.
      Do this, and your CH and WH supply/return system will now be balanced.





      Click image for larger version  Name:	SBC Warba Warrior.png Views:	1 Size:	1.42 MB ID:	460770
      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Comment


        #48
        Originally posted by 2850Bounty View Post
        Warba Warrior, when you are changing the oil, are you also changing the oil filter?


        I noticed a few things that I would like to bring to your attention:

        A good machinist can dress each manifold and elbow mating surface using a machine shop surface sanding machine. It will take him about 5 to 6 minutes for each surface.

        The OEM 95mm exhaust couplers are always too short. When short like yours are, the material eventually becomes depressed into the scalloped areas at the exhaust Elbows, eventually causing over-heating issues!
        I would suggest replacing them with new 95mm soft wall wet marine exhaust hose (soft wall..... no wire!) about 1-1/2" to 2" longer than the OEM couplers!
        Make sure that your band clamps are NOT positioned over the scalloped areas.

        Your Cabin Heater/Water Heater return hose must be plumbed into the Stbd most port of the engine circulating pump. As it is now, it is incorrect!
        The T fitting should be removed and tossed.
        The T-stat-to-exhaust-manifold-hose should be replaced.
        Do this, and your CH and WH supply/return system will now be balanced.





        Click image for larger version Name:	SBC Warba Warrior.png Views:	1 Size:	1.42 MB ID:	460770
        I am changing filter each time. I will make the changes on the water hoses. Thank you for the info.
        Warba Warrior
        1985 2550 DE
        260 HP Volvo Penta
        280 Volvo Penta
        Trolling The Bay of Green Bay
        Along with Kewaunee and Door County

        Comment


        • builderdude
          builderdude commented
          Editing a comment
          Good catch on the heater return hose.

        #49
        Originally posted by builderdude View Post
        Did you verify if that was in fact water down in the manifold? I really think your issue is a gasket mating surface failure. If you ran it for a good long time and your oil is now looking clean you could likely winterize and drain the manifolds and lay her up for the winter.
        Id also suggest if the age of your exhaust components are unknown that you replace them with new. This could be done now or after you recommission her next season.
        Sounds good. Thank you.
        Warba Warrior
        1985 2550 DE
        260 HP Volvo Penta
        280 Volvo Penta
        Trolling The Bay of Green Bay
        Along with Kewaunee and Door County

        Comment


          #50
          I'm watching this post closely as I'm having the same issue - slightly milky crankcase oil. I'm going to boat today to check the spark plugs, blow any water from cylinders and drain oil. I'm suspecting bad exhaust manifolds and or elbows as they haven't been changed in aprox 11 years although they don't have high hours on them. I've found a full replacement set from Moore Performance (VolvoAQ305350ManifoldandRiserKit.html) for $495.95 which includes both sides manifolds, elbows, gaskets and bolts. Shipping is unknown as they are most likely not open today (Sunday). Anyone have any cheaper or better options? How about the replacement 95mm hose... as Rick suggests not to buy OEM. I'm hoping to find a place to get all parts at the same time. I assume to buy one piece and cut in two?? I've got the same engine... Chevy 350 block.
          1980 2550 Saratoga Offshore
          Volvo Penta AQ260 (350 chevy) 280 outdrive

          Comment


            #51
            A good source I have used is Partman.com or Lighthouse Marine in Riverhead Long Island NY. They sell Barr replacement systems. Good quality although the paint could be better. They are made in the USA instead of the far east if that matters to you....and yes....more expensive....
            88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
            98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
            07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

            Long Island Sound Region

            Comment


              #52
              Originally posted by btubb View Post
              ............... How about the replacement 95mm hose... as Rick suggests not to buy OEM. I'm hoping to find a place to get all parts at the same time. I assume to buy one piece and cut in two?? I've got the same engine... Chevy 350 block.
              Most any marine exhaust hose company can bring this in. It will be 95 mm soft wall wet exhaust hose..... and Yes.... order one piece long enough to cut into half.

              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #53
                I changed the oil a 3rd time and it appears to be free from moisture. I did put in a 160 degree thermostat and ran it up to temp before I drained it again for the 3rd time. I pulled out the impeller and unhooked all of the houses at the thermostat housing. I removed the housing as well. I drained the manifolds and the block. (Man, you almost need to be a gymnast to get at those brass plugs) I will have to get at tarping it for the winter in the next week or so. I plan to bring manifolds and elbows in to a machine shop to see if they can resurface. I figure I can do that over the winter. i also dumped a bottle of Stabil in the fuel.
                Warba Warrior
                1985 2550 DE
                260 HP Volvo Penta
                280 Volvo Penta
                Trolling The Bay of Green Bay
                Along with Kewaunee and Door County

                Comment


                  #54
                  And you probed the block drains with a stif wire to ensure there’s nothing blocking the drain holes keeping water in there?
                  Dave
                  Edmonds, WA
                  "THE FIX"
                  '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                  (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                  The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                  Misc. projects thread
                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                  Comment


                    #55
                    Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                    And you probed the block drains with a stif wire to ensure there’s nothing blocking the drain holes keeping water in there?
                    Yes sir. it seems like a little more always comes out when poking around in there.
                    Warba Warrior
                    1985 2550 DE
                    260 HP Volvo Penta
                    280 Volvo Penta
                    Trolling The Bay of Green Bay
                    Along with Kewaunee and Door County

                    Comment


                      #56
                      Here's an update to my issue. Let me know if it better I start a new thread.
                      1. Removed spark plugs. All looked normal
                      2. went to turn over engine to check for any water in cylinders. Got nothing... no click, no turning engine. Suspect something wrong at ignition switch. hooked up remote starter switch at starter. Engine turns over.
                      3. No water in any cylinder. Drained oil out of drain tube through drain plug hole. Definite clear water in bottom of pan followed by milky oil. Same for oil filter.
                      4. Figured I'd do compression test. Doesn't look good. Results below with Cylinder # / initial reading / reading after squirting some motor oil in cylinder;
                      1/60/85
                      2/70/110
                      3140/155
                      4/135/140
                      5/140/145
                      6/145/155
                      7/130/145
                      8/130/120

                      Status as of now: Put spark plugs back in loosely. Motor is drained of all oil. Is getting new exhaust manifolds/elbows a moot point? I'm no mechanic, but the compression results don't look too good. I did have the engine started and ran for about 10 min. just about 3 weeks ago after having my carb rebuilt. I did have the fuel pump removed at that time (could water get in there if gasket maybe not sealed well??). There was no sign of water in the oil when carb work was done. However, the boat had sat about 3 years on trailer and started a few times on muffs just to get it to run. It seemed to run fine when started it up after carb was done. Boat hasn't been in the water for those three years... only started with muffs. So what is the consensus? Again, I'll start a new post if that would be more productive. Thanks all. edit: this engine has about 700 hours.
                      1980 2550 Saratoga Offshore
                      Volvo Penta AQ260 (350 chevy) 280 outdrive

                      Comment


                        #57
                        Originally posted by btubb View Post
                        Here's an update to my issue. Let me know if it better I start a new thread.
                        1. Removed spark plugs. All looked normal
                        2. went to turn over engine to check for any water in cylinders. Got nothing... no click, no turning engine. Suspect something wrong at ignition switch. hooked up remote starter switch at starter. Engine turns over.
                        3. No water in any cylinder. Drained oil out of drain tube through drain plug hole. Definite clear water in bottom of pan followed by milky oil. Same for oil filter.
                        4. Figured I'd do compression test. Doesn't look good. Results below with Cylinder # / initial reading / reading after squirting some motor oil in cylinder;
                        1/60/85
                        2/70/110
                        3140/155
                        4/135/140
                        5/140/145
                        6/145/155
                        7/130/145
                        8/130/120

                        Status as of now: Put spark plugs back in loosely. Motor is drained of all oil. Is getting new exhaust manifolds/elbows a moot point? I'm no mechanic, but the compression results don't look too good. I did have the engine started and ran for about 10 min. just about 3 weeks ago after having my carb rebuilt. I did have the fuel pump removed at that time (could water get in there if gasket maybe not sealed well??). There was no sign of water in the oil when carb work was done. However, the boat had sat about 3 years on trailer and started a few times on muffs just to get it to run. It seemed to run fine when started it up after carb was done. Boat hasn't been in the water for those three years... only started with muffs. So what is the consensus? Again, I'll start a new post if that would be more productive. Thanks all. edit: this engine has about 700 hours.
                        With no evidence of water being in the cylinders your issue could be head gasket related or rusted through water jacket at the intake if raw water cooler. Compression on 1&2 is terrible the rest of them are reasonable for an older engine.
                        I'd suggest a seperate thread would be best, less confusion for op and responders to your issue.
                        Dave
                        Edmonds, WA
                        "THE FIX"
                        '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                        (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                        The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                        Misc. projects thread
                        https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                        Comment


                          #58
                          I’ll start a new thread. Quick question: when you say “water jacket at intake”, you mean at outdrive / bellows or in exhaust manifolds/elbows? Look for my new post & thanks!
                          1980 2550 Saratoga Offshore
                          Volvo Penta AQ260 (350 chevy) 280 outdrive

                          Comment


                            #59
                            Originally posted by btubb View Post
                            I’ll start a new thread. Quick question: when you say “water jacket at intake”, you mean at outdrive / bellows or in exhaust manifolds/elbows? Look for my new post & thanks!
                            Water jacket at the intake manifold, this is where the water from the cylinder heads enters the intake manifold and exits the intake manifold via the t stat and its housing. On raw water cooled engines this area can become rusted through over time and allow water into the lifter valley/crankcase where it will eventually mix with the engine oil.

                            link to btubb's new thread on his issue:
                            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...-1-2-cylinders
                            Dave
                            Edmonds, WA
                            "THE FIX"
                            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                            Misc. projects thread
                            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                            Comment

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