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    Pivot Tube Bushing-gctid409363

    I purchased a 275 drive for replacement parts for my 280 with duoprop lower outdrive. I'm planing on using the 275 upper and intermediary units with the duoprop lower. The 275 is in great condition, all of the joints move easily including the steering fork.

    I removed the water elbow to replace the gasket and noticed the bushing ( part 11, number 814388 from this diagram - http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/...-44-15260.aspx) was crumbling apart. I removed the bushing pieces, but it looks like the steering tube needs to be removed to replace the bushing. Is that correct?

    Thanks,
    Lance A.
    1986 2860 Trophy soft top
    5.7 gm replacment motor, freshwater cooled.
    Volvo 280 or 275 with Douprop added.

    #2
    Yes!

    See the link to the Vault thread beneath my signature.

    If you can't find a thread that helps explain how-to............, post back.
    [CENTER] Rick E. Portland, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks again Don, your a wealth of information. I doubt I'll have my boat in the water this summer - hopefully this global warming thing pans out and there will be yellow tail and dorado up my way next year.

      I'm reading through this post Shimming and slowly digesting what exactly it means...

      The first 'ahah' moment was that the outer race of the bearing was in the the intermediate bearing - I couldn't visualize it when I was looking at the parts diagrams.

      Should use the outer race of the original intermediate housing, or new intermediate housing.
      Lance A.
      1986 2860 Trophy soft top
      5.7 gm replacment motor, freshwater cooled.
      Volvo 280 or 275 with Douprop added.

      Comment


        #4
        lallan wrote:
        Thanks again Don, your a wealth of information. I doubt I'll have my boat in the water this summer - hopefully this global warming thing pans out and there will be yellow tail and dorado up my way next year.

        I'm reading through this post http://"http://www.baylinerownersclu...br /> Shimming and slowly digesting what exactly it means...

        The first 'ahah' moment was that the outer race of the bearing was in the the intermediate bearing - I couldn't visualize it when I was looking at the parts diagrams.

        Should use the outer race of the original intermediate housing, or new intermediate housing.
        It's Rick, but you are welcome just the same!

        Chris' (Wizard101) thread mainly pertains to a complete bearing change out. Unless you are doing that, there will be information that you won't necessarily need........ although it does cover some of this.

        If you are re-installing a transmission and/or lower unit onto the same Intermediate housing, no shim change is necessary as long as it was correct to begin with.

        However, if you are installing these onto a different Intermediate housing, the shimming procedure must be done.

        The transmission:

        These shims create a pre-load underneath the lower driven gear bearing so that a "squeeze" is created to prevent the bearing from turning within and between the two cases.

        The target that I shoot for is approximately .003" squeeze........ ending up with zero clearance when fully tightened down.

        Easy/simple method is to over-shim, lightly secure the transmission, take a feeler gauge reading, reduce shim pack to create the .003" sqeeze when fully tightened.

        As for the lower unit:

        Yes....., keep the original outer race with the original lower unit tapered roller bearing roller cage.

        For this shimming procedure, see the OEM manual and the A and B dimensions.

        You won't have the OEM tool for pushing the outer race down on the roller cage, so you'll need to be creative.

        Actually, you'll do as well without this tool if you push down firmly and evenly, and when you understand what we're truly measuring!

        Tap the vertical shaft down-wards and tap the race down-wards around the perimeter, as to remove any slack.

        Take up to 5 or 6 "A" dimension readings around the perimeter of the outer race......., as you'll find that several of your readings will vary from one another a tad bit.

        Same with the "B" dimension...... take several readings to avoid an error.

        Do the math, and add your shims above the outer race and install it up and into the Intermediate housing bore.

        Make sure that all mating surfaces are nice and clean.

        New O-rings are a "must"!

        .
        [CENTER] Rick E. Portland, Oregon
        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
        Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

        Comment


          #5
          Sorry Rick, I've been searching too many forums.

          Another thing that finally clicked for me was that the manual was alternating pictures of the top of the lower unit and the bottom of the intermediate unit. I kept thinking I was looking at the lower unit the whole time and couldn't figure out what was going on...
          Lance A.
          1986 2860 Trophy soft top
          5.7 gm replacment motor, freshwater cooled.
          Volvo 280 or 275 with Douprop added.

          Comment


            #6
            That's ol' Don for ya, always ready to help...... ;raseberry

            Comment


              #7
              Gilligan wrote:
              That's ol' Don for ya, always ready to help...... ;raseberry
              S/A......... rod

              But that's OK...... I have a friend named Don who's a good guy! If you're refering to him, no offense taken!
              [CENTER] Rick E. Portland, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment

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