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shift lever detent? dual lever Uflex B50 control, 2556

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    shift lever detent? dual lever Uflex B50 control, 2556

    do the shift levers in the late 80's early 90's dual lever controls that bayliner used, supposed to have a detent in the shift lever?.... if so, where is the detent mechanisim located?

    neither the upper control or the lower controls have a detent to indicate the neutral position, and my neutral lock out safety switch is commonly out of alignment when I go to start the engine, and would like to find a better solution to insure the boat is fully in neutral, both when running and when trying to start it....
    I believe it to be the U-Flex B50 controller...
    any suggestions?

    I have thought about wiring an indicator light into the lockout switch as an indicator when its depressed, but a detent would be better.


    NU LIBERTE'
    Salem, OR

    1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
    5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
    N2K equipped throughout..
    2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
    2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
    '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
    Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

    #2
    The old Morse U-flex controls were problematic.
    Click image for larger version

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    With an adapter base plate, the tried-and-proven Morse Twin S would be a great replacement.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Morse Twin S .jpg
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ID:	447668

    Your same 33C cables will connect up.
    [CENTER] Rick E. Portland, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Comment


      #3
      There is a micro switch mounted to the frame under the shift lever. The shift lever has an arc to keep the switch open and a notch in the neutral position to allow the switch to close. Sometimes the shifter needs to be jiggled to get the switch lever fully into the notch, especially with dual stations. I find the lower station on Glauben to be more sensitive because the switches are on the upper helm and there is some natural play in the system.
      Some owners have enough issues, either because the switch fails or impatience at having to fiddle with the shifter every #$@& time, they bypass the switch. The danger in that is the risk of starting the engine in gear.
      P/C Pete
      Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
      1988 3818 "GLAUBEN”
      Hino EH700 175 Onan MDKD Genset
      1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
      MMSI 367770440
      1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
      Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by 2850Bounty View Post
        The old Morse U-flex controls were problematic.

        With an adapter base plate, the tried-and-proven Morse Twin S would be a great replacement.

        Your same 33C cables will connect up.
        this is the first boat ive owned with the U flex controls, but I have experienced the twin S controls in other boats, and as I recall they operate in a much better manner than the U flex.
        there seems to be nothing wrong with my U flex controls in as much as having a failure or being worn out, but they do seem to have more slack in the throw of the levers than any of the boats ive ran with the twin S controls in them.... maybe it was due more to age or care in the installation of the cables than the controller itself, but the twin S controls seem sturdier and more like a professional type controller.... WITH a detent for neutral.

        my U flex controls (throttle AND shift) operate easily and smoothly and identical at both stations, but both sides have a bit of fore and aft slack in them. when shifting from "in gear" to neutral, I have to over throw the lever so far that it seems like it should nearly be to the point of dropping into gear in the other direction.... but the cable housing is not moving when shifting, so the amount of slack in the is either normal for the U flex, or there is a problem with the linkage, or the lower shift cable is wore out..... I have looked at the controllers to see if any pins or pivots were worn, but there is no abnormal movement anywhere...
        but the controls seem to be dependable and and they arent stiff/hanging up, operating erratically or getting any worse, so maybe thats just the way they work...



        NU LIBERTE'
        Salem, OR

        1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
        5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
        N2K equipped throughout..
        2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
        2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
        '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
        Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Pcpete View Post
          There is a micro switch mounted to the frame under the shift lever. The shift lever has an arc to keep the switch open and a notch in the neutral position to allow the switch to close. Sometimes the shifter needs to be jiggled to get the switch lever fully into the notch, especially with dual stations. I find the lower station on Glauben to be more sensitive because the switches are on the upper helm and there is some natural play in the system.
          Some owners have enough issues, either because the switch fails or impatience at having to fiddle with the shifter every #$@& time, they bypass the switch. The danger in that is the risk of starting the engine in gear.
          yes, there is such a fine line in the shifter where the switch will allow the engine to start, and that is my real problem.... when trying to crank the engine, I have to mover the lever back and forth a bit to find the "spot", and with the key in the crank position, the starter will catch and then let go, catch and then let go, until I get centered on the sweet spot... its dependable but irritating.
          im not an advocate of deleting the neutral safety switch, BUT, Ive also had boats that WOULD start in gear, and I havent experienced any danger in it, although I can imagine a few scenarios where it could be very unsafe, and most of these scenarios include the lack of common sense ;-)


          NU LIBERTE'
          Salem, OR

          1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
          5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
          N2K equipped throughout..
          2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
          2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
          '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
          Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

          Comment


            #6
            Should be a detent ball at the upper helm controller along with the neutral saftey switch.
            Dave
            Edmonds, WA
            "THE FIX"
            '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
            (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
            The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
            Misc. projects thread
            https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

            Comment


              #7
              Mine have the detent but in need of cleaning under the faceplate. It helped to adjust the detent spring tension but really needs cleaning underneath. My first few times with the controls was a bit difficult bringing her into the slip...got over it. When cleaned, they should react much better...

              Plastic adjusting screws on the side helped./..
              1988 3888
              Twin Cummins 6BT's 210hp
              Onan 8.0
              Boating Raritan Bay

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Nickp View Post
                Mine have the detent but in need of cleaning under the faceplate. It helped to adjust the detent spring tension but really needs cleaning underneath. My first few times with the controls was a bit difficult bringing her into the slip...got over it. When cleaned, they should react much better...

                Plastic adjusting screws on the side helped./..
                is the detent under the face plate, or is it in behind the plastic friction screw in the side of the pivot cover/faceplate?


                NU LIBERTE'
                Salem, OR

                1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
                5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
                N2K equipped throughout..
                2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
                2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
                '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
                Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Centerline2 View Post

                  is the detent under the face plate, or is it in behind the plastic friction screw in the side of the pivot cover/faceplate?
                  Detent ball is underneath. The friction screw is just a friction screw. I'll snap a pic in the morning if ya like
                  Dave
                  Edmonds, WA
                  "THE FIX"
                  '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                  (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                  The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                  Misc. projects thread
                  https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Here’s a pic looking up at the bottom of the controller (shift lever side) There’s a plastic piece just above the neutral safety switch that houses the detent ball and a screw (hard to see) that will adjust the tension to it. Click image for larger version  Name:	4BA2F5D7-2C55-4E7D-A293-78E57E13AC19.jpeg Views:	1 Size:	296.3 KB ID:	447975
                    Dave
                    Edmonds, WA
                    "THE FIX"
                    '93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
                    (.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled)
                    The rebuild of my 2556 https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...76?view=thread
                    Misc. projects thread
                    https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/f...56-gctid789773

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by builderdude View Post
                      Here’s a pic looking up at the bottom of the controller (shift lever side) There’s a plastic piece just above the neutral safety switch that houses the detent ball and a screw (hard to see) that will adjust the tension to it. Click image for larger version Name:	4BA2F5D7-2C55-4E7D-A293-78E57E13AC19.jpeg Views:	1 Size:	296.3 KB ID:	447975
                      thanks... the photo helps a lot.


                      NU LIBERTE'
                      Salem, OR

                      1989 Bayliner 2556 Convertible
                      5.7 OMC Cobra - 15.5x11 prop
                      N2K equipped throughout..
                      2014 Ram 3500 crew cab, 6.7 Cummins
                      2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
                      '04 Polaris Sportsman 700 -- '05 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
                      Heavy Equipment Repair and Specialty Welding

                      Comment

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