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2006 195 Bowrider Starting Problems-gctid406612

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    2006 195 Bowrider Starting Problems-gctid406612

    Hello everyone and thank you in advance for reading and I apologize for being long winded. Not only am I new to this forum, but to boating in general. I convinced my wife to buy a used 2006 Bayliner 195 runaboutbowrider with a Mercruiser 3.0 stern drive in favor of a new 185 with the same engine because it was literally half the price. Her concern (and probably anyone's when buying a used boat) was unknown mechanical problems.

    The first three days we owned the boat we took it out and it started just fine. We then waited 3 days and went out and dropped it into the water and it wouldn't start. I checked the battery and it was at 11 volts. I charged it up using a trickle charger to 12.8 and watched it drop over the next 3 days to 12.4, 12.1, then 11.7. I figured bad battery so I went and bought a new, larger battery with more "reserve" and about the same cold cranking amps as the battery I was replacing. I installed it in the boat and a day later took her down to the lake.

    As you might guess, this was time NUMBER 2 on the boat launch where the damn thing WOULD NOT START. What was different here is that now my wife, feeling bold with the new battery left the blower on for 2 to 3 minutes while I parked the trailer. She had read that you are supposed to run these for 4 minutes before starting the engine to avoid global thermonuclear war (or something equally terrifying).

    So we took the battery back to the store where they tested it and said it couldn't have been the battery. We hooked it back up to the boat and used the hose to test it and it started right up with no problem. Trying to duplicate the issue, I ran the blower and hooked the battery to the multi-meter and watched the voltage drop from 12.61 to 12.6 to 12.59 etc. at the rate of about 1/10th per second. My current theory is that the combination of a new, poorly charged battery and a quick discharging blower have caused my strife. I feel the following steps should be considered:

    1. I should always check to see if my engine will start before leaving my driveway (the lake is 15 minutes away)

    2. Despite the risk of exploding boats, I should NOT run that damn blower (I never fuel on the water anyway)

    3. I should look into installing a multi-battery setup

    Am I on the right track?

    1. Yes

    2. Absolutely not. The risk of good start is not worth it if the boat explodes.

    3. Not really necessary on a boat the size of a 195

    Not starting is probably related to needing a tune up, not the battery

    Hope this helps

    Tom Brooke
    MV Overexposure - 1999 4087
    MMSI - 367585640


      A trickle charger puts only a tiny charge into a battery and needs like 24 or 48 hours to make any difference. Something on your boat might be draining the battery. If it doesn't have a battery switch I would install one so you can turn it off when you get home. A properly charged battery should stay up for months if it is properly disconnected.

      You should be able to run that blower for many hours before it would drain the battery. That was not the problem and using the blower is very important. Look at the other thread on this forum about a boat blowing up recently.

      I think you made a wise choice. Learning to boat is best done on a good used boat.

      Check all battery connections. Make sure they are clean.


        Trophyboat and Tombro, thank you for your replies.

        So if I understand correctly, I should be able to run the blower without watching the voltage drop precipitously in my boat when the motor is off. I think I can safely rule out connection problems as it is a brand new battery with stainless steal bolts and wing nuts connecting the terminal (wish my car was as easy to connect) and all electrical in the boat appears brand new. Do I need to replace the blower? Why would the voltage drop so quickly when the damn thing is on? I suppose there could be a short in the blower wiring only exposed to the battery when the blower is switched on?


          well in the past i found the radio or a amp draining the battery over a few days. Does the radio have a switch to shut it off? Also any add on electrical stuff in the boat?

          If your not going to run the blower then at least open the engine cover and smell it frist and leave it open while starting.


            On the positive end of the battery are 3 cables. One thick one which I am sure goes to the starter, and two small (16 gauge?) wires which go to the radio and the bilge pump. There is reason to believe the Radio could be a problem, and it isn't on a shutoff switch, but it was unhooked when I ran my test. I ran it again last night and though the voltage dropped while the blower was running, it stopped dropping at a respectable 12.5. Maybe I just need a battery shutoff switch and a tune up.


              I'm not so sure a tune-up will fix this problem... however, your boat is likely due some tune-up maintenance anyhow and it will never hurt so I would do it anyway. A 2006 is about due some serious maintenance, plug wires, plugs, impeller, etc...

              What could be the problem is a simple voltage drain, from potentially bad bearings in the blower motor, or even the radio not shutting off, a battery master switch will solve all voltage drain problems except for the possibility of the blower motor having bad bearings.

              So I think you are on the right track. Battery master switch, tune-up, and potentially replace the blower motor. And all should be good as new.